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 Post subject: Duratec 2.0 Sourcing
PostPosted: July 11, 2019, 2:50 pm 
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Joined: August 29, 2012, 4:45 pm
Posts: 7
Hi,

I'm getting back into a 7 after a long absence and have decided that the 2.0 Duratec is the way to go (with aftermarket throttle bodies and ECU for EFI). I was wondering what the best way to get a long block in the US is, please? My plan was to source all the 7-specific parts from Raceline in the UK.

I am not planning an elaborate build as this is mostly a road car- I'd be really happy with ~180 BHP to start with and retaining stock internals. Can I therefore get away with scooping up a long block from a junkyard Focus? If so, is there a minimal level of rebuild/stripdown that would be recommended before installing and setting up the EFI?

Also, am I right in thinking that I'm looking for any of the non-VVC 2.0 Duratecs found in the US Focus (model years 2005-2011)? Are there any differences within that class? I see references to "high-port heads" - does that apply here?

Many thanks!


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 Post subject: Re: Duratec 2.0 Sourcing
PostPosted: July 11, 2019, 4:05 pm 
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Joined: January 1, 2012, 12:44 pm
Posts: 378
Location: Boise, Idaho
Start looking for long blocks on Car-part.com. Use different search areas by states or regions. In my experience, the yards remove the alt, starter, AC, PS components, so you'll want to get new ones of those. Get an engine with the fewest miles so you don't have to open it up.
The Duratec doesn't have a keyway in the crank for the harmonic balancer, cam/oil pump sprocket. On my first version of the Duratec 2.0 in my build (Another Evolution by Ron), I was able to add the crank trigger wheel for Electromotive ECU without removing the harmonic balancer.
Note: since your'e not using stock ECU, don't get the stock alternator. The voltage regulation is done by the ECU. I used a '95 Ranger alt with an internal regulator.
It's my understanding that the the 2.3 and 2.5 engines have the "high" port.
I'm currently in the process of putting a different engine in my car, so the Duratec 2.0 will be for sale. It's been warmed up with forged crank, h-beam rods, 11.4 pistons, mild cams, Cosworth short stack plenum manifold (clone), 28 lb injectors, 4-2-1 header, light weight flywheel/hd disc/upgraded PP and dry sump oil system. 175 WHP/210 FHP. I'd sell it as described for $5.5k or with the wet sump oil system for $4.5k. Another $500 for the 2008 Miata 6-speed.
Yes, the non-VVC is preferred. I thought that the VVC started to show up around '08?

Ron


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 Post subject: Re: Duratec 2.0 Sourcing
PostPosted: July 11, 2019, 10:24 pm 
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Joined: August 29, 2012, 4:45 pm
Posts: 7
Thanks Ron - I will check out car-part.com! What would be considered a reasonable number of miles on a 2005-2011 donor engine without having to rebuild? 60-75K?

According to this website, 2005-2011 was non-VCT and 2012+ was VCT and direct injection.

Regarding the lack of keyway on the crank - folks seem to use aftermarket EFI systems routinely on this block - presumably they've found a way around it to mount the trigger wheel? How did you mount it without removing the balancer?

Thanks for the offer of your motor - sounds amazing, but ultimately too much for my needs on the road.


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 Post subject: Re: Duratec 2.0 Sourcing
PostPosted: July 11, 2019, 11:04 pm 
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Joined: January 1, 2012, 12:44 pm
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Location: Boise, Idaho
Yes, the mileage range you listed is a good one.
Some standalone efi systems have the capability to specify the trigger wheel spec, so those can use the stock wheel. The one I've used, has to have a 60-2 wheel. The stock harmonic balancer on my engine has a machined dished surface, so I turned an adapter to mount the trigger wheel on which the fit the dish. The three spokes of the balancer were drilled and taped to fasten the adapter.


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 Post subject: Re: Duratec 2.0 Sourcing
PostPosted: July 12, 2019, 3:19 pm 
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Joined: August 29, 2012, 4:45 pm
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OK, thanks. I now see why you couldn't use the Ford trigger wheel. Your solution sounds neat.

It seems weird that Ford didn't "lock" the cam wheel to the crank with a keyway. Is that how they did it on the Zetec too?

Which ECU would you use if you were doing a Duratec today with throttle bodies?

Thank you!


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 Post subject: Re: Duratec 2.0 Sourcing
PostPosted: July 12, 2019, 4:19 pm 
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Joined: January 1, 2012, 12:44 pm
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Location: Boise, Idaho
The Zetec has traditional keyway.
I'd use Electromotive TEC-S, but then I've been using their systems for 25 years.
I'd suggest you research AEM EMS-4 and Megasquirt 3. This isn't a recommendation because I've installed a grand total of ZERO of them.
A. Moore used MS3 on his Duratec ITB setup. Maybe he'll lend his experience to your effort.

Ron


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 Post subject: Re: Duratec 2.0 Sourcing
PostPosted: July 18, 2019, 1:03 pm 
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Joined: September 19, 2009, 12:33 pm
Posts: 443
Any reason you wouldn't go with a 2.3 from a Focus ST or Ranger, or the 2.5 from a Fusion? They're all the same engine on the outside, some just have a little extra room on the inside.

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 Post subject: Re: Duratec 2.0 Sourcing
PostPosted: July 22, 2019, 6:26 pm 
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA
I haven't followed the Megasquirt stuff in several years but as of ~2013 it was not difficult to get a Duratec running sequential ignition on a MS3X with GSXR throttle bodies. I ran stock Duratec coils which did not have a built in igniter (too much current draw for the channels on the MS3 expansion board) so I had to source a few IGBTs and solder them to a protoboard to make a custom igniter box. Shortly after I did this, DIY Autotune came out with an igniter box that did the same thing.

Otherwise it was a pretty standard MS build. I used the stock VR sensors for the cam and crank and ran shielded wire to the ECU. I tried to buy repair connectors and pins from Ford where possible to minimize butt splices but ended up having to snip a few pigtails from the factory harness.

I kept the stock Ford injectors and epoxied the holes in the GSXR throttle bodies closed. I should have removed the fuel pump control module which controlled pump output for the factory returnless system but did not since it seemed like a neat feature to have at some point and I was able to control it with the MS3. If I sent 12v straight to the pump, it would have simplified things and still given more than enough fuel for a reasonable build. Someone in the UK offered a Duratec fuel rail with AN fittings at both ends to allow for an external regulator and return system but I believe that was discontinued a long time ago - you would have to figure this out.

I did not use the factory fuel temperature and pressure sender on the fuel rail. It may have been possible to use the pressure signal but it wasn't straight forward on the MS3 at the time.

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 Post subject: Re: Duratec 2.0 Sourcing
PostPosted: August 24, 2019, 4:42 pm 
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Joined: August 29, 2012, 4:45 pm
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Thanks all. I've seen a few engines for sale at the local breaker's, thanks to your car-part.com website suggestion. One that caught my eye is a 2010 motor with 38k miles ($480 for the long block). Any tips for what to look out for when checking out these motors in person? Presumably any cracked engine mounts/bracketry? Also broken threads for intake/exhaust manifolds. Are there any common structural issues to look out for on the block? Thank you!


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 Post subject: Re: Duratec 2.0 Sourcing
PostPosted: August 26, 2019, 11:15 am 
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Joined: January 1, 2012, 12:44 pm
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Location: Boise, Idaho
I've relied on the 6-month warranty given by those that I've purchased from and the presence of an "A" rating in the ad as well as good compression numbers. The engine mounts have always been removed, so no clues there, but check the harmonic for dents and squareness to the water pump pulley. Put a straight edge on the balancer over to the water pump. Then rotate the crank 90 degrees and check again.
The three engines I've bought in the last two years have been good.


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 Post subject: Re: Duratec 2.0 Sourcing
PostPosted: August 26, 2019, 12:43 pm 
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Joined: September 19, 2009, 12:33 pm
Posts: 443
See if you can work out a deal to get the accessories, mounts, and wiring. If the engine hasn't been pulled yet, maybe they can just leave everything there. It's a million times easier and cheaper to get everything now rather than having to nickel and dime yourself to death trying to hunt down every bracket, alternator, pulley, bolt, sensor, and pigtail that you'll need.

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