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PostPosted: October 26, 2012, 10:33 pm 
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Joined: October 26, 2012, 5:33 pm
Posts: 6
Location: ontario
hey i am in the process of starting to build a locost from scratch for the first time. I am wanting to build the 4" wider one. i am planng on using a TR7.

is there anyone that has made one with the TR7 that could share some hints or if any one would like to give their imput on building the 4" wider frame.
Any help is greatly appreciated. :D


Last edited by sammyh on October 27, 2012, 11:14 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: October 27, 2012, 9:21 am 
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Hey, welcome Sammy! I don't think we have seen much information on using the TR7. It has been mentioned though. Keep reading here, there is lots of information. You'll get better response with posts and conversation in public here on the forum because then when people take the effort to make a real reply it can help many more people then an email to an individual. You will be assimilated.

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PostPosted: October 27, 2012, 10:05 am 
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Joined: January 7, 2010, 5:39 pm
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Location: hopkinsville KY
Search for Locost 442 plans, that will get you started, you will need to come up with a different front spindle, since the TR7 is a McPherson strut.
I still play with the British stuff for Craig (I build his engines, do his fiberglass and drive the TR7), I personally have been British free for over 10 years, and it is an affliction!
You can check out Craig’s cars here: http://flashbackracing.com/

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PostPosted: October 27, 2012, 10:36 am 
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Joined: July 4, 2006, 5:40 pm
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That sounds like a cool donor. I haven't heard of a TR7 Locost before, but sometimes you have to be the pioneer.

I looked at using a TR7 rear axle for my MGB build, since the MGB axle is a little narrow. I needed something about 3" wider. It turns out the TR7 axle is about 6" wider, which was a little too much for me, but would fit nicely in a +2 chassis. Might be a tight fit in a +4, but you can always add wheel spacers.

Anyway, do all the up-front research you can, best of luck, and glad to see the mods removed your email address. You can get all the feedback you need right here.


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PostPosted: October 27, 2012, 11:47 am 
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Joined: October 26, 2012, 5:33 pm
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Location: ontario
Thanks for the info all is very helpful and if there is any more keep it coming. I am hopefully picking up the car this weekend then I will have to figure out if I am going with a 2" wider frame or 4 " was thinking going with 4" cause I have seen plans for it nothing for 2" it can. Be to hard to come up with my own plans. Will just have to see how the rear end will fit in both frame choices.

Sam


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PostPosted: October 27, 2012, 11:54 am 
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Joined: October 6, 2009, 9:29 am
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Hi Sammy-
Welcome to the forum! I can't claim to know a lot about TR7s, but I did like the way they looked. However...

A friend of mine is a TR mechanic/restoration guy, and I believe I've heard him say that there was something funky about the cylinder head studs on the TR7 engine. IIRC, one row of studs was set at an angle. It all works fine until somebody mills the head down, and then the holes won't line up. I don't know if you've got your donor engine or not, but it would be something to be aware of...

HPBugeye- Sounds like you know your way around a TR7... Any of the above true, accurate, better than the other drivel one reads on the internet???

:cheers:
JDK

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PostPosted: October 27, 2012, 1:04 pm 
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Joined: October 26, 2012, 5:33 pm
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Location: ontario
Hey thank you yes I have read about the problems some people have incountered with the heads on them. And yes the information on here is great so glad the there is a forum like this. All information is helpful. :)


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PostPosted: October 27, 2012, 3:32 pm 
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Isn't the haynes Roadster a +2 wide, if that is what your preference is? But are haynes roadster plans available anywhere but their book? Saturn/Voodoo have conversion plans for a Miata-based Haynes, bu not the whole frame, just the changes I think.

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PostPosted: October 27, 2012, 9:35 pm 
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"It all works fine until somebody mills the head down, and then the holes won't line up"

that is partially true, you can do a clen-up cut if its not to warp, but if you take to much off , it will not line up. the head we haave on the TR7 race car right now has had a clean-up cut. I am also a fan of ARP head studs!

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PostPosted: October 28, 2012, 7:43 pm 
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Joined: October 26, 2012, 5:33 pm
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Location: ontario
hey guys just an update just picked up my 1980 TR7 today looks like it will make for an awsome donor going to try and get it up in the air in the next couple days to take som measurements and will snap some pictures and post them!!!!! :D


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PostPosted: October 28, 2012, 10:19 pm 
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Location: hopkinsville KY
4sp or 5sp?

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PostPosted: October 28, 2012, 11:34 pm 
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Joined: October 26, 2012, 5:33 pm
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Location: ontario
hpbugeye wrote:
4sp or 5sp?



It is a 5 SPd


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