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PostPosted: June 22, 2011, 9:37 am 
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Joined: April 1, 2010, 10:26 am
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Random, thanks for the dimensions, that is perfect. Now I will start looking for the save info on a Miata box and I should be good. I am really hoping it will fit inside my trans tunnel. If it looks good I will start buying parts soon for a winter swap.

Graham


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PostPosted: June 22, 2011, 11:45 am 
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Joined: October 11, 2006, 4:11 pm
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Location: Abbotsford B.C. Canada
Bill, You and I are totally on the same page about the gearing. With the correct axle ratio the deep reduction of first won't be an issue. It sounds like you and I do our "engineering" in about the same way, I end up with lot's of little doodads that should have but didn't work too.

Graham, Glad that I could help, keep in mind the measurements are of the housing only, there's an electrical plug that sticks out a little farther and a small part of the shifter cover casting that needs to be trimmed down but its close enough. I'm sorry, I don't remember what exactly it is that you're doing? Do you have a link?

Cheers,
Ted

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PostPosted: September 7, 2011, 8:26 am 
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Joined: February 28, 2009, 11:09 pm
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Location: Connersville, Indiana
In the past, I've made some comments about the shifting quality of the M5R1. This past weekend, we were at an Alpine get together and three long time Alpine nuts drove my car. All said the shifting was fine, one thought it was a Toyota W58 (he has one in his car), but the ratios of the M5 were better.

So at this time, I feel it is appropriate to say shifting qualities are not an issue.

Bill


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PostPosted: September 7, 2011, 11:55 am 
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Location: Abbotsford B.C. Canada
Nice! I'm glad to hear that.

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PostPosted: November 25, 2011, 8:29 pm 
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Joined: February 28, 2009, 11:09 pm
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Location: Connersville, Indiana
Even though I said that shifting qualities were not an issue, I still was not satisfied. I discovered that shifter knob weight can have an impact on shifting qualities, so I made one out of stainless steel. The change was dramatic. The clunkieness is gone. I can now say that I am happy with the way the tranny shifts. The shifts were always precise, I just did not like the feel. Here is photo of it along with the old shifter. The new one weighs 1 lb, 7.6 oz. The old one 2.2 oz.Image

I installed the knob in the Alpine and it was shocker. Mounted very high, was big and shiny. Looked like it belonged in a clown car. So I cut 1/2" off the bottom and rethreaded the hole, allowing the knob to mount about 3/4" lower. Here it is in the car, weighing 1 lb, 6.6 oz. Still works fine.Image

This knob is almost 2" in diameter and while I like the shape and size, it still has a large visual impact. I have some 1 1/2" SS I'm thinking I will make another knob out of. Maybe one pound will do?

Bill


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PostPosted: November 26, 2011, 12:53 am 
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Location: Abbotsford B.C. Canada
That shift knob looks great! I think it's well balanced visually with a functional retro cool look that fits in the alpine perfectly!

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PostPosted: November 26, 2011, 3:12 pm 
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Location: Connersville, Indiana
Yeah, its a handsome scudder. I think it takes after me.

I'm finding that even with all that weight, length of shifter is important. As I lower the knob on the shifter, the shifting qualities deteriorate. Also, I'm becoming ambivalent about the finish. I've polished it up some more, it looks great but is slippery. I'm thinking maybe a fine emery cloth finish would be best.

Bill


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PostPosted: January 24, 2012, 10:51 am 
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Joined: February 28, 2009, 11:09 pm
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Location: Connersville, Indiana
If anyone is interested, there is an M5R2 in Idaho. This what I know about it.

"Hi Bill. The transmission is at a shop in a town about 20 miles from where I live. The owner of the shop is an immigrant from Mexico; it's tough to understand him when I call.

He's asking $250.

Texting seems to work better. 2082490771
"

It appears to be in good shape and the mating supercharged 3.8 laying nearby.

Also found some M5R2's using car-part.com.

Bill


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PostPosted: March 18, 2012, 7:42 pm 
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Joined: October 10, 2010, 8:24 pm
Posts: 38
thanks for all the info and dimensions on this gearbox! i wish i would have known about it sooner. im working on swapping a 2.0 duratec into an mg midget. i had intended on using the type 9 transmission and quad 4 rods bellhousing i bought. but after doing reaserch on the m50d it looks like it will actually take the power of a highly modified duratec engine without busting. also the most important thing for me is that the shifter location may be a problem for you guys but its perfect for me! i needed to move the shifter pretty far forward. I had all ready started on modifying the type 9 to move the shifter forward. i may be putting up the things i have for sale and look for a m50d/m5r2 transmission. My plan is to get the car running with the $150 2.0 duratec i found but then build up a 2.3 for serious power when everything is sorted. i was allways worried about the reliability of a type 9 sitting behind a 260hp 2.3 duratec. this is a good viable option for me. does $300 seem to be a good price for one? there is one local out of a ford ranger.

Some pics of my project. i need to make a build diary here
Image

suspension
Image

engine
Image


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PostPosted: March 19, 2012, 7:18 am 
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Location: Connersville, Indiana
$300 is exactly what I paid for a junkyard Durtec M5 with 45,000 miles on it. The prices can be pretty crazy. Using Car-Parts.com, I found some asking $350 (or more) for boxes with 100K (or more) miles on them.

Bill


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PostPosted: March 19, 2012, 9:26 pm 
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Joined: October 10, 2010, 8:24 pm
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Im wondering if anyone wanting to use this transmission has found any good clutch kits? im talking about beyond the factory clutch, something with more clamping power. i haven't found anything yet. it seems that the transmission should handle a high hp duratec fine. but im just hoping theres stronger clutches out there. maybe piecing a kit out is the only option?


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PostPosted: March 20, 2012, 12:34 am 
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Location: Cave Creek, AZ
I don't think the clutch has as much to do with the transmission as it does with the engine and it's flywheel. There is no mechanical connection between the engine and transmission save for the friction disc. I think that if the M50 can handle the torque output of 200 or so foot*pounds in a 3,000 lb car or truck, it wont have any problems with 200 foot*pounds in a lightweight car by any means.

Tom

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PostPosted: April 18, 2012, 6:02 am 
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Joined: February 28, 2009, 11:09 pm
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Location: Connersville, Indiana
Time for an M5 shifting update. My extension (or remote shifter) was very lightweight construction.
Image

After my experience with the heavy shifter knob, I got to wondering if I should have made the moving parts of the shift heavier. So I did.
Image

As pictured, it weighs 1 lb, 15 oz. I was in a hurry to get the car on the road, so I did not weigh the old one, but it was probably less than half a pound.

Anyway, the heavy shifter linkage improves shifting with the lightweight knob, but it is not as good as the heavy knob with the light linkage. I'm using the heavy knob and linkage and I'm very pleased with it.

Bill


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PostPosted: July 1, 2014, 12:50 am 
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Joined: November 6, 2011, 5:06 am
Posts: 13
Hi all, i know this is an old thread but figured i would pose my question anyway in the hope that someone out there has an answer.

I'm in the final fabrication stages of a duratect 2.3L /m50d-r1 swap into a '67 triumph GT6. One of the last few things I need to do before I tear it down for final welding and bodywork is to make sure sure that my stock clutch master cylinder is sufficient for the ranger slave cylinder. Can someone here tell me what the recommended master cylinder diameter is?

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PostPosted: July 1, 2014, 2:39 am 
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Joined: April 12, 2010, 5:40 pm
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Location: san francisco bay area
7/8ths clutch master cylinder iirc. ..

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