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Hello all,

I'm working on a mid engined exo design (actually my 2nd, my first design got too big and complex for a garage build), and I have a question about hub selection.

Do the hubs have to come from the same vehicle as the donor?

So far, my idea is to use a Honda Fit or Civic as the engine/trans/axle donor, but I really don't want to design around the press fit bearings they use on the front suspension. Some research revealed that a Civic uses 27 splines on the hub side, and that a dodge caravan uses the same number of splines, and is a bolt on hub design. Is that even possible? Is there any other variable that can cause a problem other than the number of splines?

I've searched around, and all I've found is some people mentioning hub selection, but not rules about what to look for and what to avoid.

Thank you.

You can use which ever hubs you want the issue it what do you need to do to make the m fit. For the fronts you can use any as they will not connect to the current engine at all. Most people make their own front suspension so you will just make the arts to fit your chosen hubs.

The rears are a little more difficult as you have the axle to deal with. You will need to modify them regardless as they usually steer the car as well as drive it and unless you are going rear steer (No one in their right mind would). You have a few options for the rear
1. Use the stock hubs and fix them so they no longer steer.
2. Custom axles to fit any hub to your chose engine (think cut and weld two different types)
3. Find another hub that fit your stock axles
4. Custom make your hubs to fit you axles and chosen suspension
5. Customize everything to make what you want.

If you look though the various build logs it is amazing the ideas people come up with to overcome problems such as this. One recommendation is to go light and make sure the front and rear bolt patterns match if you do use different hubs.

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2015 & 2016 EMod Florida State Autocross Champion
2013 & 2014 DSP Florida State Autocross Champion

Scrap Metal Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14558

welcome cobrajoe

this Timken catalog selection will be your friend to solve a lot of problems ;

http://timken.com/en-us/products/Pages/Catalogs.aspx

and especially this catalog;
(warning; its a large pdf file with all the 1990 and newer unit-bearing hub applications, dimensions and pics)

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=7&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CEMQFjAG&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.timken.com%2Fen-us%2Fproducts%2FDocuments%2F1990_and_Newer_Bearing_and_Seal_Application_Catalog.pdf&ei=_gpQVJj_GsOfyATG4IDAAw&usg=AFQjCNEKTKaXBzw_0Jj7upFUcg4O7g5WGA

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- Stephan -

That is an amazing resource, almost too many options...

If I understand it correctly, the main deciding factor for the hub bearing is the spline fit and what wheels I want to bolt on, right?

I'm planning on designing my own uprights (hopefully without needing much CNC work), so that leaves a lot of options open on what I can use without using those annoying press fit bearings.

Thank you for the links, and for the answers.

your welcome

if i find a Timken unit-bearing part # that would work for me i usually go to Stockwiseauto.com to check on things like price and weight
like for example this very lightweight Nissan "rear" unit-bearing (that would be nice for fabricating a front spindle) ...

http://www.stockwiseauto.com/product_info.php/cPath/1106_1229/products_id/20268/Make/Nissan/Model/Rogue/Year/2009

after that i hunt for compatible disc brakes at the same site
Stockwise is listing most parts with detailed measurements like for example on this lightweight rear disc
(originally intended for a `98 Nissan 240SX)



sites like SWA.com are priceless for mixing and matching things for a project

(btw "hub reg" is revering to brake disc pilot hole diameter )

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- Stephan -

Again, thanks!

I have no idea why I waited so long to post here, I've gotten a lot of help just from a couple posts.

I've got a lot of design work left, but you set me up with a bunch of possibilities and reliable data. I'll be sure to show off my work once I'm done enough to show it off.

Having the same number of splines is the starting point. After that it requires physically getting parts and mating them together to see how they fit. Look closely at the internal and external spline when engaged to see if they appear to have matching profiles and not too much free play. Also look at how the threads stick out and make sure there is enough room for the nut to be both fully engaged and fully seated. In this regard, too long is generally going to be better than too short, as you can always make a spacer to prevent the nut from bottoming out on the threads.

Sometimes local parts stores will let you examine parts they have in stock without necessarily buying them. Also salvage yards or people parting cars out on craigslist can be a good source for buying mock up pieces that are cheap enough to be disposable if they don't work out. A day at a pick-n-pull type yard might also let you pull parts and check their compatibility, without having to buy them first if they don't end up working out.

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-Justin

"Orville Wright did not have a pilots license." - Gordon MacKenzie