LocostUSA.com

Originally, I expected to use my donor (a 1994 Mustang) swing pedals, master cylinder and cable clutch setup. I removed the stock setup, which is shown in the graphic below.


After getting much further along, I've abandoned the idea of using the stock pedal assembly setup and will be switching to floor mounted pedals instead for packaging reasons. I know there are lots of aftermarket pedal assembly setups that use a hydraulic clutch. The Haynes Roadster has a pedal assembly design in the book with dual hydraulic brake cylinders plus one for the clutch. But, I'm OK with a cable and keeping it would be an advantage, budget-wise and that would be a good thing right now.

Has anyone seen a vendor who has floor mounted assemblies using a cable clutch? Alternatively, have you seen a pedal assembly design for the Locost that uses a cable clutch? I'm open to anything, but haven't found anything suitable as yet.

Thanks,

Lonnie

_________________
Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Here is a UK supplier with at least one floor-mounted cable-clutch pedal box:

http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/BRAKE ... index.html

(Postscript) Lonnie: I haven't bought from this company: I found them when I was looking for a source for hanging pedals, including the accelerator. I asked if a drawing was available for the hanging pedal set that they sell and within a few days I received a pdf. No big deal I suppose - Wilwood has that sort of thing on line - but after reviews of GTS Tuning in the UK, which has a wonderful website but nooooooo service, I was relieved to at least find that Merlin was responsive to a customer email. I have mixed feelings about proceeding with a purchase of the hanging set they sell because I found some mixed reviews of it online. I didn't seek reviews of the floor-mounted sets, because I can't use one because of exhaust manifold interference.

_________________
Warren
Isuzu Pickup/SR20DE, +401 COLD frame
Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=11601

I would think that a cable actuated clutch would require the pedal's pivot to be raised. Cable's that I have seen need to be pulled rather then pushed? I'm speaking from theory, not real knowledge. This would require the cable to come in an inch or two below the pivot. That would make a strange feeling in the relative action of the brake and clutch pedal. Or maybe the whole box gets raised to keep the feel of the pedals consistant. Unfortunately, the photos on the Merlin Motor Sport site than Warren posted don't show the cable version of the pedal box.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

This turned out to be an excellent lead, Warren. I did figure out who the manufacturer is for Merlin and they have a website too. Their products look very good and they have units specifically for the Locost and Haynes Roadster. There is even a currency converter, so you can see the price is dollars, either Canadian or U.S.

Here is the UK (home) website of Optimim Balance Products ==> http://www.obpltd.com/

With a little further digging, I also found a relatively new distributor in Wisconsin. It looks like they carry a subset of the products available in the UK. I'll spend some time this morning looking at what they carry.

(limited?) U.S. distributor ==> https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group ... D=PEDALOBP

Thanks for the tip, Warren.

Cheers,

Lonnie

_________________
Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

What is the packaging issue?

It won't be the end of the world if you lose some leverage by shortening the pedals as necessary to get the quadrant to clear the bonnet, or you may want to raise the dash and bonnet area if it hasn't been built yet.

The cheapest thing is to use what you have and build around it, unless you're having to rebuild to make it fit.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

There are several parts to it. Due to the width of the V6 bell housing (almost = V8), my foot well is pretty narrow near the firewall. The Mustang swing pedals and steering column assume more available real estate than I have at the firewall where they coexist. I can live without the swing pedals, but want the steering column and all its controls plus the tilt wheel. If I kept the boosted Mustang master cylinder, I would eat up tons of firewall space, so I need to change that or use it non-boosted.

On the other hand, I have lots of unused space down at the floor level and not much to get in the way such as exhaust headers, steering, etc. I already have my fiberglass scuttle on hand and like its height. It just makes the most sense to change the pedals. A number of packaging problems or conflicts then go away.

Cheers,

_________________
Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

That makes sense. Also, if using the factory pedals, the booster (hydroboost as in your pic or traditional) would still be optional.

The column is originally mounted below the pedal pivot rod and between the brake and throttle pedals. A straight steering intermediate shaft is nice but not necessary, and the column assembly looks pretty compact. You might try raising the column up as close as practical to the pedal pivot shaft and add a second, second hand intermediate shaft for the extra joints if necessary.

In the end, only you know if it will fit. I'm just trying to provide ideas. It looks like you've just started on the frame, so you may try phsyically mocking it up first.

It is interesting to note that on the original sevens, the valve cover is actually forward of the aft edge of the nose, with the forward edge of the footwell for the drivers side even with the aft edge of the bell housing. The passenger foot well is about 6 inches shorter than the drivers.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

I did a rough fitting when I did my wooden chassis mock-up. At the bottom part of the foot well the Mustang pedals fit just fine. It's the top part where you get a lot going on - too much, I think. It's a street car and I'd like a heater and defrosters, if possible, and they would be likely mounted in the "usual" place in the middle of the firewall upper ledge just forward of the scuttle. I haven't made a final decision about the battery location yet, but tentative plans are for it to be located above the passenger foot well, just in front of the scuttle for ease of access. When you add in the 12V power distribution pieces, etc., it seems like a smart move to get the brake system, clutch and swing pedal mounts out of (the soon to be crowded) scuttle-upper firewall area.

Thanks for the suggestions, though.

Cheers,

_________________
Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

I'm having space issues with MGB swing pedals and steering column. I can't imagine fitting Mustang parts in there. Something's gotta give. Floor-mounted pedals make a lot of sense to me.