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PostPosted: June 7, 2012, 4:04 pm 
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john hennessy wrote:
maybe my problem is that the transmission is just draging it's feet as it were and i can move the shifter faster than the transmission can sort it's self out, i'm already using atf in there so don't want to go lighter with the oil.


Hmmm... I was reading an article (below) about the T56 having issues shifting into 3rd. Normally it was no problem, but when people started banging shifts in drag races, they started missing shifts. The symptoms were as you describe -- that the shifter didn't keep up with the driver.

What the author found was that the OEM Chevy master cylinder had a factory specified restriction in the line. When that restriction was removed, all was well. The writer surmised that the factory had put that restriction in the line 'cause that way the clutch engaged slower, and thus prevented some level of shock to the drive train.

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/howto/39021/index.html

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PostPosted: June 7, 2012, 9:26 pm 
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to make my clutch work i used a camaro hose adaptor from speedway in the slave cylinder with the roll pin setup, which convert the line to -4 at both ends, i will have to check this out thoroughly.

you may be on to something here!

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PostPosted: April 25, 2013, 11:47 am 
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Joined: February 28, 2009, 11:09 pm
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Location: Connersville, Indiana
Justin, is this of any value?
* Please note that some Duratec 2.3 donor vehicles such as the Ford Ranger use a larger 116 teeth flywheel. The starter motor from these vehicles are not compatible with the smaller 112 tooth flywheel as they have a 10mm greater offset. Please use the standard Ford Mondeo or Focus stater motors
Note:
You are able to use standard bolts with this flywheel but you will need to shorten them slightly so that they don’t bottom out when you tighten them (due to thinner flywheel face).

Taken from:
http://www.rwdmotorsport.com/ford-durat ... rod_4.html

Bill


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PostPosted: April 26, 2013, 12:38 am 
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While I already had the information in their disclaimer, it is definitely applicable to this idea. And even though I've browsed their site a number of times, I'm actually surprised I hadn't noticed that particular flywheel before. While it doesn't appear likely to work in place of the Ranger flywheel, it did spark a few new ideas that I'll have to follow up on as I attempt to further pursue a viable option later this summer. Thanks for following up on this thread with pertinent information!
:cheers:

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PostPosted: May 23, 2013, 2:08 am 
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So I've picked back up on researching this again, as I would like to get some parts made this summer, and am generally please with where it's been taking me thus far. However I've also had some confusing data points as well.

Since all of this Ranger stuff is relatively new to me, feel free to jump in with questions, answers, corrections, or thoughts to any of this. So the first thing I looked at was the OE replacement clutch catalogs for a couple of manufacturers. the first thing that struck me was seeing all 2.3L Rangers from 95+ as using the same self-adjusting clutch part number. The changes appear to be mostly in regards to the flywheel and ring gear. However the non-adjusting clutch would use the same base part number with a different dash number on the end. I still haven't confirmed what the difference is between the non-adjusting versions, nor why one style can use the same part number and the other can't. Now it appears that while the 94- and 95+ use different parts, the complete clutch/flywheel packages are interchangeable as a whole. And then the 94- flywheel, can popularly be used with a Turbo Coupe 'pressure plate' and 3.0L Ranger disk for a cheap package to hold significantly higher HP than stock. Where this has led me is looking into the feasibility of making it a dual clutch mounting pattern flywheel. First would be a pattern that would be able to use the OE Duratec clutch, as well as any (OE or aftermarket) 95+ Ranger clutch. Alternatively the bolt pattern for a 94-/TC clutch appears possible to use as well, which I believe should provide sufficient choices for just about any budget and power level that the M5ODR1 can handle. Pretty much all good news I'd say.

On the down side, while I've temporarily acquired some more parts to measure from each generation, I have actually encountered a new oddity on my previously purchased (~1 year ago) clutch purchased last. If you recall, I kept the "Sachs clutch, which actually has AP stampings on it. Something is amiss on it, but unfortunately I have no idea what, and it's and it's harming my ability to trust my measurements on any aftermarket clutch. I first noticed the spring fingers sat higher and and at a slightly larger diameter than on the more recently sourced (Valeo stamped) 95+ and 94- clutches. Also the disc appears to be the wrong diameter. Initially it sits with surprisingly little slop on the upturned pressure plate before contacting what I believe to be the cover. Enough so that when I tried to tighten it down just slightly out of alignment it snapped a chip out of the outer edge of the disc. Upon closer inspection, the disc is actually larger than the mating surface on the pressure plate, which I've never seen before and doesn't actually appear to be intentional. Of course I'm running into some dead ends as to whether this is right or wrong, and if wrong what are these supposed to be to. Either way, looks like I'll probably be getting a(nother) new clutch when I get the flywheel all figured out.

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PostPosted: May 26, 2013, 9:29 am 
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Location: Connersville, Indiana
Justin, my clutch kit (for a 2002 Ranger flywheel) came in a box that stated it was compatible with the Durtec, Lima 2.3 as well as the 3.0. The Rock Auto site lists the 3.0 pressure plate as not compatible with anything, while the clutch plate is compatible with Duratec.

I certainly hope you can get a handle on all of this. Have you talked to a Ford Parts guy?

Bill


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PostPosted: October 30, 2013, 3:25 pm 
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Update:

It looks like these flywheels will finally be a reality sooner than later. I don't have a finalized availability date yet, or weight, but it sounds like an aluminum flywheel with replaceable steel friction surface *should* run a retail price in the $389-$439 range. It will have a single pressure plate pattern that will work with any standard style 95+ Lima/Duratec pattern pressure plate.

Please let me know if you are interested in purchasing one in the near future, like within the next few months, as it might be able to help the first run price by having a larger number of flywheels to make.

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PostPosted: May 15, 2014, 1:11 pm 
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I just found this thread through a google search, and it caught my attention. I'm considering a Ranger Duratec swap into my Mk.1 Ford Cortina, and assuming the engine looks like a good fit, I could definitely be interested in one of these flywheels.

At this point, I don't even have an engine, so I still need to do some basic research on making it fit. Has te first run of these flywheels been done?


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PostPosted: May 16, 2014, 1:07 am 
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It should be an off-the-shelf available product once finished, but being without much pent up demand the project does tend to fall through the cracks at times. I'm currently trying to get a better idea exactly when this should finally be ready, and will post an update here as soon as I know more.

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PostPosted: June 6, 2015, 12:48 pm 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
My thoughts on the lightweight flywheel solution for the 2.3 ranger. Would it be easier to make a custom gear on the starter to use with the Miata or focus flywheel? There are plenty of lightweight options to for the Miata. They are pricey but I think they are still cheaper then a a custom flywheel for the ranger. I'd assume the differences between the flywheels are the diameters between the 2? Does anyone know if the starter gear can be removed on the ranger starter? If not then disregard my post.

Just my $.02 gents. :cheers:

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PostPosted: June 8, 2015, 3:02 am 
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Yeah, this idea is all but dead. Apparently they were unable to source suitable ring gears, even though there are numerous stock 2-piece replacement flywheels that had to get their ring gears from somewhere.

At this point, I'll probably be figuring out what combination of off the shelf parts will result in the easiest customization and/or fabrication to make it work, or maybe just stick with a standard iron flywheel I had originally purchased if the company I loaned it to hasn't lost it by now...I suppose the standard iron flywheel option would make it easier for my wife to learn how to drive a stick this when it's done.

Rather than use a custom gear on the starter to work with a Miata or Focus flywheel, I'd just use a Miata or Focus starter. The real problem is ensuring that the clutch/flywheel assembly is the correct height relative to the release bearing and that the contact between them is correct. Right now one of the stronger options is what Saltracer did in his build thread.

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PostPosted: June 14, 2015, 1:02 am 
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Driven5 wrote:
Yeah, this idea is all but dead. Apparently they were unable to source suitable ring gears, even though there are numerous stock 2-piece replacement flywheels that had to get their ring gears from somewhere.

At this point, I'll probably be figuring out what combination of off the shelf parts will result in the easiest customization and/or fabrication to make it work, or maybe just stick with a standard iron flywheel I had originally purchased if the company I loaned it to hasn't lost it by now...I suppose the standard iron flywheel option would make it easier for my wife to learn how to drive a stick this when it's done.

Rather than use a custom gear on the starter to work with a Miata or Focus flywheel, I'd just use a Miata or Focus starter. The real problem is ensuring that the clutch/flywheel assembly is the correct height relative to the release bearing and that the contact between them is correct. Right now one of the stronger options is what Saltracer did in his build thread.



Started reading his build. Started getting teary eyes after reading what he has gone threw. Godspeed to that man and I wish and pray the best for him. I'm not married nor do I have kids but I can't even fathom what he went threw. :'(

Wanted to post up asking questions about his clutch and flywheel setup but I'd rather not bother the man as I'm sure that's the last thing he is worried about.

The website he listed only has 2 duratec flywheels.

I may talk to my machinst at work and see if he can machine a flywheel. We have a 4 axis at work and he's pretty good on it. Seems like all the gears on the end would be the hardest part. I'll let you guys know.

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PostPosted: June 14, 2015, 11:37 am 
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116 tooth is easy, it's the pitch you have to watch. Any well stocked parts house should have a decent catalogue. (Do those things still exist?)
Here's a friction fit ring gear example; http://www.fortwayneclutch.com/index.php/flywheel-ring-gear-116-tooth-flywheel-ring-gear-gm-diesel-116-tooth-steel-ring-gear-pn-s-srg-116ft-frg116ft.html

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PostPosted: August 22, 2015, 5:59 pm 
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Driven5 wrote:
Y.... Apparently they were unable to source suitable ring gears, even though there are numerous stock 2-piece replacement flywheels that had to get their ring gears from somewhere.


Similar situation trying to get Alloy wheels for MGC. Flywheel manufacturer couldn't find any ring gears, Vendor was about to throw in the towel. I emptied Vicky Brit's inventory (qty=1) and Brown & Gammons in the UK (qty = 3), and stripped ring gears from two of my personal flywheels to make it happen.


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PostPosted: August 23, 2015, 2:10 am 
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At this point, I think my best bet will be to if I can sketch up a 'button flywheel' that can be used in conjunction with a stock auto trans flex plate, and shop it around to a few local machine shops. Shouldn't take more than another month* or so.



*Year :BH:

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