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Is it worth the extra cost and size to use a 6-speed (t-56) transmission in a car of this size or would it be better to go with a preped TKO 600 5 speed. It would be smaller and lighter. I do not see the need to have 2 overdrive gears in a car as small and light as these.

I have fould bellhousing to adapt either type of transmission to the engine and even a few auto options. But have no plan on going that route as we prefer manual transmissions if possible.

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Having fun and enjoying the ride

1927 Roadster - custom build
1932 Ford, full one off custom build
2008 Corvette Z06
2009 Mustang GT500
2010 Nissan GTR

No experience with them, but I've heard that the TKO's aren't great shifting transmissions, especially when you start pushing higher rev shift points. Much like you alluded to, I would also feel the T56 is probably bigger and heavier than I would be looking for. It is possible that the weight of these cars would allow an aftermarket T5 to live fine behind engines well beyond it's official torque rating, but I would never actually make a recommendation to go with that much of an unkwnown either. When I was researching higher powered builds for heavier cars, I was intrigued by the Keisler RS transmissions. They use a T45 case and play with the internals to make it stronger and more reliable. Supposedly it's kind of like having a 5-Speed T56. So it might be worth looking into the Keisler transmissions to see whether or not they would be more of what you're looking for.

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-Justin

"Orville Wright did not have a pilots license." - Gordon MacKenzie

Easiest option is the W58, from the NA supra/SC300/IS300, it will bolt on and can handle any power a locost chassis can put to the ground. However I would never put that engine in a locost, believe it or not an LS V8 fits the chassis better and is lighter.

I know the LSx series motor is lighter and would fit better. But we will see, We may builda jig so we can build more than one chassis and build a second with a LSx

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Having fun and enjoying the ride

1927 Roadster - custom build
1932 Ford, full one off custom build
2008 Corvette Z06
2009 Mustang GT500
2010 Nissan GTR

The W58 is everywhere too.
Another stronger option is the R154, found behind the 7M-GTE
And the V160 or V161, which is what came behind a 2JZ-GTE, depending on the country and age.

The R154 and V16# are both bigger and heavier than a W58 too.

I've been told the TKO shifting issue Driven5 mentioned is when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. If you drive it like a 4-speed and over-push the shifter to the right you can find 5th by mistake. So it seems to be a matter of technique. Also, high rpm shifting can be improved in the TKO's by upgrading to a carbon fiber synchronizer blocker ring instead of the standard brass synchro ring. Keisler offers this upgrade for around $300.

In addition to their RS tranny, Keisler just announced their all-new SS version, designed by the same guy that desighed the T56 for Borg-Warner. They say it excels at high rpm shifting, supports 700hp and weighs just a few lbs more than the TKO. Give Jeff at Keisler a call, I've found him to be very helpful.

We have an upgraded TKO600 sitting in a box here, waiting for the Scarab roller to arrive in a couple of weeks

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

+1 for the R154... Bolt-on(stock components), never heard of anyone killing one. Should be perfect for what you're doing... just upgrade the clutch appropriately.

I dont mind a little extra weight in the car, if it is for strength. Plus I can make up for some of the weight in other areas by using lighter stuff there. The problem we are running into is engine mangment systems for the varible cams on the later model JDM engine which we found to use as a building base. AEM, Haltech and HKS are the main brands we arre running across and only have worked with Haltech in the past.



Still working on using the engine, while we are going to design the chassis to accept more than one engine and transmission option. We figure this way we do not have to redesign everything If we want to build another car with a different drivetrain.

In fact the first chassis will be set up for a LSX /T-56 set-up. But once we start building the bases chassis we are going to build a jig and a second chassis at the same time.

_________________
Having fun and enjoying the ride

1927 Roadster - custom build
1932 Ford, full one off custom build
2008 Corvette Z06
2009 Mustang GT500
2010 Nissan GTR

I've got the motor in its intended chassis, so I can lend a few thoughts.

Either NA tranny should do fine, you'd be able to pick up a R154 on the cheap in solid shape. I'm sure you're already aware of the Getrag's clearing $6k+ as of late, and it'd be massive overkill in a sub 2k car that wouldn't hook up on anything short of tires borrowed from a pro-street friend and taking off the rear fenders.

I can't comment on the VVT-i, but I can definitely advocate swapping out to US spec turbos over their ceramic counterparts if you'll be running them long term. You'll be changing injectors and likely cams if you go much bigger anyhow, so that's less of a problem. I suppose you could always go old school and piggyback on the stock ecu if it came with the clip, but you'd need an adept tuner.

Personally, I'd leave the turbos sequential (at least for a while before trying TTC and seing if you like the change), and drive the piss out of it. The powerband would be much friendlier. (It's entertaining enough with 600+ at the wheels in the 3600lb counterpart - Once you break traction, the turbo sees it as free reign to pile on the power and try to swap forward ends. ) - part throttle at 130 snaps to near full throttle without changing much pedal pressure if the car goes sideways.

Check out JR's SR20 build, and where he went with it longer term. (changing turbo, adding Racelogic TC, etc.) I understand doing the 2j sheerly because you can though.

LQ Block out of a salvage yard Escalade with a few cheap used bolt ons would be a great way to get the LSX done on the cheap. (I've more than pondered it. )

Pictures either way.

- Forgot to add. I've seen a few R154's grenade, but it can be well argued you shouldn't be hard launching on slicks without preloading the driveline regardless of trans. I've got a close friend that managed to sideline a V160 on stock turbos and street tires as well. It's always good for a laugh, he's the only one I've yet to see that's managed to kill it in the fashion he did.