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With the EGR blocked off it will not flow out next to the intake manifold. It will have some scavenging going on at the exhaust port #4 unless you close up that small port that runs ti the EGR throigh the back of the head and likely warms it up.

You will keep the crankcase ventilation, or block it off?
It is OK to block it off?
I see that GBS has an ATR plate, that does not have any fitting on the plate.

I'm about to buy the Civic radiator w/fan/shroud/relay etc., but I can't make up my decision about how many cores do I need, 2 row, or 3 row?

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Tibor


'20 Alfa Romeo Stelvio daily
Locost/442E in progress

I just read this in a post, but of course I can't find it right now. But it was along the lines of cores aren't going to help you as much as actual cooling area. So the jump from 1 to 2 cores is substantial (30%-50%), but the jump to three is much less so (10%-15%). Don't quote those numbers though, that's just from memory.

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Cheers,
Logan

being a 2.5 I went with a 4 row as a function of core thickness. I was intrigued by a scirocco dual pass design, but ultimately the Civic unit made the most sense as it meets the requirement in good packaging and very attractive price point. The larger surface area of the core should ward off heat soak over laps a bit better.

I am hunting down hardware for the starter and starting to decide how the belts are going to route. I got a differant tensioner, and need to move the plastic wheel on the timing case to it's alternate spot I think.

For the ITB intake manifold, do we need vacuum, or PCV ports?
For Speeduino, I can get vacuum from the throttle bodies.
I'm in talks with danst for the manifold. Let's see how much will cost me.
Purchased a 3 row radiator. If it's not enough, it is easily/cheaply can be replaced.
Anybody has some cooling system, PCV system diagrams on how to route these, what is needed to be compliant?
I haven't look into these yet, since I was hoping to leave the engine last, but to get the intake manifold, I need some info about adding ports to the manifold.

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Tibor


'20 Alfa Romeo Stelvio daily
Locost/442E in progress

I just ended up ordering the manifold plate and got some 2" aluminum tubing to mate it up to the zx-10 throttle bodies. Will have to see if I save any money going this route

This is how I routed my belt.
Mazda 6 alternator, but most likely all Mazdas use the same one(100A). Direct bolt on.
Used this pulley.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NH ... UTF8&psc=1
Used a Continental Elite 4040550 Belt.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/311447636478
I had to change the bolt on the pulley, for a longer one.

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Tibor


'20 Alfa Romeo Stelvio daily
Locost/442E in progress

Ok, so your using the tensioner on the intake side. I have ones for both sides. need to get the alternator on and figure that part out. will probably run my coolant above the header with shielding now that I got a look how the civic radiator is going to sit.

The engine came that way, with that tensioner there.
I will add a shield over the alternator. I don't want it to be cocked by the exhaust.

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Tibor


'20 Alfa Romeo Stelvio daily
Locost/442E in progress

They don't come that way. There should be more belt contact/wrap on the water pump pulley. Two idlers missing.
Some newer alternators do not have internal regulators, relying on the oem ecu.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Yeah, I'm a bit concerned about the water pump pulley contact as well.
What is on the right bottom, power steering pump, or A/C?
Do you know, what alternator is that in the first picture?
I tried finding out what G is the Mazda alternator, but I can be sure. I assume that it is a 3G, but I'm not positive.
A 3G should be a regular with internal regulator, right?

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Tibor


'20 Alfa Romeo Stelvio daily
Locost/442E in progress

The right bottom on the left engine is an alternator.
The right bottom on the right engine is a lipped idler pulley to go in the place of the oem ac compressor. Just need to bolt on a standard replacement lipped idler idler with spacers for belt alignment and possibly a sleeve to center the idler on the bolt depending on the idler you choose. There are many options.


I don't know much about alternators after 2000 since they don't apply to my vehicles. Generally, many oems started using the ecu to regulate around 2000 so an older alt should have an internal regulator. The diodes are still internal and may be sold as a replacement regulator but it would still be ecu controlled. There are lots of options on fitting older 90s oem alternators that have internal regulators. Most of them come with a six rib pulley.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

I need some help about the PCV system on these Duratec engines.
I'm planning to install ITBs, and I don't know how the PCV system should be run/plumbed.
Originally, the engine has the PCV valve mounted on the crankcase side cover.
From there where it should go, since I will have individual throttle body manifold?
When I will have an air filter, a fresh air hose(after the filtered air) will have to go to the valve cover, right?
Trying to get a quote for a manifold from danstengineering, and I need to know, what fittings do I order with, if any.
Usually they use one vacuum port for the brake booster, but we don't have that.
Vacuum hoses are already interconnected between each throttle body.
Should I use a vacuum manifold? Each TB vacuum line should be run to an individual port on that manifold, and the PCV should be plumbed in the same manifold?
Also, the ECU will get it's vacuum from this manifold.
It would be possible to run an idle control valve somehow?
Found this video about the ICV: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NOcr2Ca2pQE

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Tibor


'20 Alfa Romeo Stelvio daily
Locost/442E in progress

That is a lot to cover.
The valve cover and block breather can be vented to a breather tank or individual mini-filters or the base of an air filter.
If you must have a pcv and itbs, a tube manifold like the video is needed for the pcv hose connection.
The same tube can be used for an iacv (an iacv is of limited value) but not for the ecu map sensor.

Itbs usually do not use a map sensor input but may use it as baro. Map input is an important tool for the ecu to control timing and fuel.

A 3/8" thick spacer between the head and itbs can be fitted with two vacuum ports on each cylinder; one for pcv/iacv manifold and one for a 1/8 thick manifold. The volume of the map manifold and hose must be minimized for rapid changes in pressure to be sensed by the ecu.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

tibimakai:
Since you're in California, I assume you're going to register the car via SB100, so you're free to do anything you want regarding the engine. The OEM PCV system reburns fumes that make their way past the rings into the crankcase. Many modern (direct injection) engines have serious problems with those fumes leaving deposits on the intake manifold and intake valves, so there is reason to avoid replicating the OEM configuration.

The easy, cheap, and uncaring way is to route a hose from the crankcase to below the car, venting the fumes to the street. The problem that it drips oil onto the street, and the fumes may be visible rising up from below the car while at a stop. Someone not knowing what it is may think the car is on fire.

The better way is to run the crankcase hose to a catch can (some call it a "puke can"). From the top of the catch can, a second hose runs to below the car. The catch can retaining the liquid oil and most of the fumes, but does need to be emptied periodically.

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Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/