LocostUSA.com

Will this bellhousing work? Says "2.6 I believe).

http://m.ebay.com/itm/261756005412?nav=SEARCH

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

I don't think so. The pic shows more holes and a few are in the wrong place.

The one you show on eBay was for a 4ZE1, Bore x Stroke: 92.6 mm x 95 mm, displacement: 2,559 cc (156.2 cu in). The 2.6L 4ZE1 SOHC eight valve engine features 120 hp (89 kW) and was available as an option to replace the 4ZD1 on four-wheel-drive models. It was fitted to the MU/Wizard/Rodeo/Amigo, the Trooper, and the Pickup.

The one you want is for a X22XE, The 2.2 L engine was a derivative of the GM Family II engine introduced in 1995 built by Holden in Australia that saw usage first in Australian and European versions of Isuzu-derived trucks and SUVs, and was later used in the Isuzu Rodeo and Daewoo Leganza. The X22XE was also used in the Opel/Vauxhall Sintra (1996–1999). This is why it fits the GM ECOTEC 1.4

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Building a whole car from scratch is a 1,000 little tasks, done 1 task at a time, while thinking 10 tasks ahead, then redoing it anyway.
South Bend Region SCCA D-Modifed Class Autocross & Track-Day/TT. Chevrolet 1.4 L Turbo Ecotec Power


Link to my build log:
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3356

Awesome. Thanks for all that. Thanks for helping me not buy the wrong bell housing. If you happen to find one on eBay let me know. I'll keep my eye out as well.

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

Same with the engine and trans as well. If you find a good deal, please let me know. Found an engine for $900 shipped. Not sure if it came with the wiring and ecu. I'd like to find one in a local yard and pull the cluster as well. Take the cluster apart and see if I can fab something up to make it fit the dash.

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

Go to

http://Www.car-part.com

I see one in Spartansburg, NC with a possible T5 tranny attached. About 2 hours from Charlotte? Also one in Fayetteville asking $100!

Use the search engine function for 1998 isuzu rodeos bell housing. You will find plenty. You can find most anything in the USA. Most of the guys will ship anywhere. It almost takes the fun out of the hunt.

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Building a whole car from scratch is a 1,000 little tasks, done 1 task at a time, while thinking 10 tasks ahead, then redoing it anyway.
South Bend Region SCCA D-Modifed Class Autocross & Track-Day/TT. Chevrolet 1.4 L Turbo Ecotec Power


Link to my build log:
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3356

Thanks. Same deal with the engine as well I would assume.

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

Whats the measurement between the bottom of the oil pan and the bottom of the bell housing?

Also, what clutch and flywheel combo are you using? I assume you are using a sonic or a cruze flywheel and a mustang clutch?

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

Ive been researching what cars came with the ford T-5 trans and which would be best to use with the correct gear ratios. Quite frankly I'm overwhelmed. So many numbers. Im not good with figuring out what ratio is best with this engine. It also doesnt help that the cruze and sonic came with 6 speeds. Im also limited by final drive ratios cause im using a subaru R160 diff. Ive found out that The LSD's come in 3.545, 3.900, 4.111, and 4.444.

Its quite too much for me as I dont understand how to suit up the right trans with the right diff to this engine. I guess I need to spend some time on a gear ratio calculator. Figure out what trans is commonly sold around here and go from there.

any help would be great from anyone that has experience with this. Thanks gents.

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

I am still not 100% sure about fitment on the smaller gm engines but I read somewhere that vauxhaul use the same bellhousing pattern on most of their 4 pot line up. This getrag was on the bay of thieves over here, it was from a thing we call an opel manta, no one bid on it ,they are a good tough box, I would imagine its also a lot lighter than a T5.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/opel-manta-ci ... true&rt=nc


Bob

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Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16640&p=187700#p187700

Mancave http://s1116.photobucket.com/user/mypic ... ow/mancave

The T5 is pretty light at 65 pounds. I don't think there is a lot of variation in ratios. Mostly what you would run into is different 5th gears and I think there are 2 first gears. Since the Subaru diffs have a short ratio, that is rev quickly, you probably want tall 1st and 5th gears to the extent that you can get them. THe turbo will have a wide torque band so that also suggests tall gears.

So first candidates would be units from V8 Mustangs. These also have heavy duty input shaft etc. The basic rebuild kits are cheap. I'm starting to look now and figure it's likely I'll open it up and update the insides a bit.

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Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
Car9 Roadster information - models, drawings, resources etc.

Might check into the early 2000's Mustang 4.6 V6. Internally, it's supposedly the same as the V8 T5's. Externally, some notable differences that could be handy.

Here is a link where it is discussed and with pictures, which I have no idea how to steal and repost.
http://www.sunbeamalpine.org/forum/show ... 845&page=2

Bill

I had these measurements in earlier post of this thread. Centerline of crank output to bottom of pan is 7.5" - centerline of crank output to bottom of tranny bell housing is 6.5" = 1" difference

The stock clutch and flywheel is a dual mass unit that will not hold up to the increased power we will get out of these engines. I would strongly suggest you go with a single mass lightweight flywheel. Major benefits on small turbo motor allowing the engine to rev faster and subsequently spool up the turbo. This is a big improvement for a smaller motor. For the clutch, I would suggest a stage 2 or greater unit which will withstand torque in the 250-300 ft/lbs range and be done with it.

The flywheel I sourced from Clutchmasters. This is a good unit weighing about 11 lbs. I pick one up for $454.20 on-line. It has a replaceable Kevlar insert on the friction surface. It is for a Cruze/Sonic 1.4T.

The clutch will be a custom puck type racing clutch from DXD Racing clutches (a division of South Bend Clutch). http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/ They can make you whatever you need and are quite familiar with off-road applications. If you just buy a Mustang clutch, it won't fit!!! The I guy that I am dealing with is one of my SCCA friends. He builds clutch systems for Continental GT endurance race cars and off-road racers. I dropped off my aluminum flywheel to him this weekend so he can start building up the clutch with the right parts. He just needed to confirm the spline count on the output shaft form the Isuzu Rodeo T-5R tranny. He is also making me a pilot bushing to fit the T-5 to the Cruze crank. The rest of the system is is standard '98 Isuzu Rodeo throwout bearing and slave cylinder that should work just fine. When he finishes my clutch I will let you know the spec and info if you want a similar one also built to your spec. I also heard Kentucky Clutch make good units to spec. Del Long used them in a few of his D-Mod specials.

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Building a whole car from scratch is a 1,000 little tasks, done 1 task at a time, while thinking 10 tasks ahead, then redoing it anyway.
South Bend Region SCCA D-Modifed Class Autocross & Track-Day/TT. Chevrolet 1.4 L Turbo Ecotec Power


Link to my build log:
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3356

I went over my research using a on-line calculator in in my build log here and others have chimed in also: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3356&start=330
Surprisingly I'm lucky the standard T-5R Isuzu ratios work well with my Mazda RX-7 rear diff. I can start in 2nd gear and hit 74 MPH in 3rd gear.

Hears is a calculator I used: http://www.apexgarage.com/tech/gear_ratios.shtml

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Building a whole car from scratch is a 1,000 little tasks, done 1 task at a time, while thinking 10 tasks ahead, then redoing it anyway.
South Bend Region SCCA D-Modifed Class Autocross & Track-Day/TT. Chevrolet 1.4 L Turbo Ecotec Power


Link to my build log:
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3356

With respect to the T5, I do hear you saying "TMI", or Too Much Information, so I don't want to add to the burden. I hope this will clarify, not confuse. I'm just speaking with respect to the Ford T5, not other versions.

The big differences are as Marcus stated:
1) Torque capacity of input shaft;
2) 1st gear ratio;
3) 5th gear ratio;

to which I would add;
4) World Class or non-World Class (WC).

If you pick a T5 from a late model V8 ('94 or better) you will be completely safe as far as torque and WC goes. You want a WC version of the T5.

I know nothing of the power/torque of of the Chevy Cruze engine, but I strongly suspect a T5 from a '94 or later V6 (3.8L OHV or 4.0L OHC, 3.7L OHC) will also be completely safe. Those engines have power/torque equal to, or better than, early small block Chevys and I doubt your turbo Cruze exceeds any of those in terms of torque. If I were spending my own money, I would use one if I happened to find a good one at a fair price.

Do not use a T5 from a Ford 4-cylinder engine. They are different in terms of torque capacity and not suitable. The only exception would be the turbocharged Ford SVT, 4-cylinder Mustang. The chances of finding a T5 from one of those is very, very low.

Your other big variable is matching the length, pilot bushing diameter, spline type (and, as above, torque capacity) of the input shaft. It sounds like Locofin and Bob are knowledgeable with respect to those variables and I am not, but it is a very important factor.

You can always change the gear ratios later if you need to, but none of the available V6/V8 choices will kill you. First and fifth gear are the ones you will spend the least amount of time in. If you want to do things to near-optimal at some point, you will need to match the gear ratios to the torque and power curves of your engine.

If you do know those curves, and want to take the time to apply that data, use a reference like Chapter 10 (The Transmission) of Colin Campbell's "The Sports Car: Its Design and Performance" to figure out the best gear set. He is a very clear writer and gives you all the tools you need to do the job. Personally, I'd make that a Phase II or Phase III task once the car is on the road and you can evaluate what you have in terms of the real-world performance it provides you, as-is.

I hope this helps.

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Helped a whole lot. Thanks again Lonnie. You basically answered all the questions I had.

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…