LocostUSA.com

This is an interesting discussion, so I'll put in my $.05 (I'll have to give a nickel since Canada got rid of the penny)

I ended up choosing an early Honda C-series V6 (2.7L, 161 hp stock). I had main requirements for the engine in my project. In order of importance they were:

1) Big and advanced. This was the most important, since a few people I know who have seven-type cars lament having a small-displacement, older 2-valve engine in them. While I know from experience that these cars are still a blast to drive, I craved something much faster than the cars I'm used to autocrossing, which meant over 300 hp, especially since my car will be on the heavy side for a Locost.

2) Upgradable and strong. Whatever the engine was, I wanted to make sure that I could always add more oomph later on without any trouble. This ruled out Miata engines because, while it is possible to get ~300hp with a turbo, after that it will likely get laggy or expensive. The V6 I chose had 3.5L and forged internals in its last iteration, so there will always be room for improvement once it is on the road.

3) Character. I love six-cylinder engines for their sound. Not practical, but important to me.

4) Something new. Not important to everyone, but when asked "why not a small block?" the only answer I can give is that I wanted to do something original. Having autocrossed a Corvette with a built motor a few times, I appreciate what these engines can do, but it just wasn't what I was going for with the drivetrain in my car. I think this is an under-rated factor in choosing engines - they govern so much of a car's character that sometimes it drives people to make impractical and obscure choices.

Part of the appeal of the engine I got was that it was free and in good shape, but if money was no object then I would've started out with one of the later engines (well, if money was really no object then I'd get an NSX engine, which shares the same block!). Learning how to make an engine-transmission adaptor plate was good experience, but a bit of a pain - I just couldn't find too many engines that were rear wheel drive with my requirements.

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http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16511

I originally wanted an S2000 engine as they have a great torque curve make loads of power in stock form for a small engine (although rather tall). I then decided they were too expensive and started to look at Miata's as a complete donor car. Then when talking to my buddy who owns a garage he told me his friend has an S2000 engine (The F22C from an 05) and the price was right at $2000 so I borrowed his engine hoist and took the Minivan to the guys house the next day and bought the engine.

Flash forward 18 months and I have just got the car running and had a couple of drives and a shakedown run at a local track. I love the engine with 240ish HP in stock from the engine will just need an oil change a few times a year and it should basically last as long as the car as long as it does not overheat and I keep oil in it. I could have boosted a Miata engine to make similar power beside reliability issues a boosted engine does not perform as well as an NA engine at the same power (Based on my racing experience) due to the smooth nature of the NA power delivery.

Ultimately it all comes down to what you can find at the right price for your needs.

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2015 & 2016 EMod Florida State Autocross Champion
2013 & 2014 DSP Florida State Autocross Champion

Scrap Metal Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14558

Thats a small question with a raft full of answers Lets face it you could basically have what you like in there size wise for the same money, there would not be much difference in cost for a running 350 chev to a matia engine. I think engine choice is not so much related to what fits the car as to what fits the intended driving style. A lazy engine just pottering about on the highway would be as much a dream for one man as a F1 engine in a track day special would be for another. I have seen as big a smile on the face`s of guys driving 1100cc escort engined cars as those that have built v12 monsters . Intended use is the deciding factor so when and if you have decided what floats your boat you will be in a position to choose an engine/gearbox combo. Trust me I am old

Bob

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Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16640&p=187700#p187700

Mancave http://s1116.photobucket.com/user/mypic ... ow/mancave

what he said. Basher, intended usage plays a big role. given that most Locosts are in teh 1300-1500 lb range, any engine with over 100hp will push them down the road at a very exciting rate of acceleration. it has been my exiperience and observation that once you get close to 10lbs/hp, you're in quick territory.

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The B-3 build log: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=13941 unfortunately, all the pictures were lost in the massive server crash

The beginnings of the Jag Special,
https://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=19012
Again, all pictures were lost.

I wanted something readily available for cheap, decent power, smooth running, and relatively compact. I ended up with a Ford 3.0 pushrods V6 from a Taurus. The first 10 years or so they had weak transmissions that would require an expensive rebuild at around 100k miles, and the car generally isn't worth spending the money on to fix at that point, ensuring a good supply in junkyards for a long time to come. It's a 60 degree v6, so has perfect primary balance and runs very smooth. Mine is mounted solid to the frame and a cup of water barely ripples when you set it on the car. Stock they were rated at between 145-155 hp. This rating is with all accessories running and at the transmission output, so flywheel is a fair bit more. They have a pretty restrictive intake and exhaust in the Taurus, but that's easy to fix. I built a four barrel upper intake for now to ditch the restrictive stock EFI one and some long tube headers. With a 9lb flywheel it revs pretty quickly and the extra breathing lets it still make power. The first engine kept pulling hard until the rods came apart so I have a rev limiter at 6500 now. I weighed the engine at one point in time, but can't find where I wrote it down. But I remember it being around 360 or 370 lbs pretty much ready to run with clutch, starter, alternator, carb, and ignition. The downside is the lack of any aftermarket parts, but I should be able to use a few old school hot rodding tricks on it.
Kristian

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V6 in a book frame build. Now registered.
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7587
viewtopic.php?f=33&t=18172

I really didn't give the engine a lot of thought. I knew I would need one, of course. I had the basic frame done and the rear axle mounted. A friend told me about a friend of his who was "under orders" to get rid of some of that stuff in the garage. The "stuff" turned out to be a Triumph Spitfire engine and transmission.

I built the engine mounts for that engine, although I actually installed one I found on e-bay. After 5 years of use I found out it had been upgraded from its emission controlled origin to the more standard spec. It had also been bored out 0.030" oversize.

I've added electronic ignition and fuel injection. It runs really well for such a small engine.

The car will top out at about 87 mph and will also get reasonable mileage. I've seen 39 mpg one time, but mostly it's around 30. Considering that the car is mostly driven to lunch, this isn' t too bad.

Parts are readily available from multiple suppliers. The engine is simple to work on, as is typical of older engines.

While it certainly will never be a fire breathing monster, it certainly seems to fit my needs.

Bill Bernard