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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: August 3, 2014, 7:03 am 
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I get what Bblue is saying now.

That's not an issue. The bell you are using matches the input you are using. All the different length inputs for T9s and 4 spds do not matter.

There is nothing to measure until you obtain a T9.

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PostPosted: August 3, 2014, 6:51 pm 
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I did this conversion a few years back on a Dutton. I bought most of the parts needed from Quantum Mechanics. The imput shaft on the T-9 is 1" 23 splines like a pinto 2.0 litre. I had to have a larger pilot bearing made. Do all the measurements after bellhousing is located. If you do not have any end float you will knock the thrust washers out of the block and ruin the engine. I work with a FF engine builder and it happens about 6 times a year. I used a Formula 2000 clutch and pressure plate and made a bobbin with a mechanical or cable clutch. I had no room for external slave you can use a internal slave. Burton is the best supplier for some parts, I used a cable from a Caterham and the trans mount from a Westfield. It seems that T9's are harder to come by in the states everyone uses mostly T5's. I am using a T9 mated to a zetec in my project.


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PostPosted: August 4, 2014, 3:41 am 
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I managed to put the trans up behind the engine.
Four of six bolts line up, which I knew.
Input appears to fit into the crank without bottoming the splines, a good thing.
Will have to check the pilot depth.

I do have the Merkur bell, in fact I have two, from the two T9's I have.
Cable operated clutch, so I will want to change that.

So far it looks like I may be on the right track with my idea of a small adapter plate to pick up the top holes from the Merkur bell.
Looking at the bell revealed the secret of the 2.3/Lima blocks, they have an EXTRA set of top mounting points!
Instead of the six mounting holes expected they have eight.
The standard set that match the Kent and earlier EnFo's plus two more about 1.25" higher up.
Merkur's use the top pair of mounting holes, Kents match the lower set.

In looking at my Merkur bell closely there is a shadow from the unused Kent pattern mounting point holes.
So it looks like a simple four-hole 3/8" thick plate may get me there.
Cut the top of the bell back 3/8".
Make the simple plate with two countersunk mounting holes using the top Kent mount points, and two more above threaded to pick up the Merkur bell mounting points.
No welding on an aluminum casting, just some simple milling.

I did find an engineering drawing for the Kent engine pattern, I should be able to find one for the newer 2.3/Lima as well.
I also need to determine if a sheet-metal dust cover plate is needed for correct distance.

Input to crank pic.
Image

Upper Merkur mount is too high on the kent block.
Image

The bright spots which witness the redundant Kent mounting points on the Lima 2.3 block.
Image

The portion I would cut back and fit a spacer to.
Image

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PostPosted: August 4, 2014, 3:47 am 
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miles60 wrote:
I did this conversion a few years back on a Dutton. I bought most of the parts needed from Quantum Mechanics. The imput shaft on the T-9 is 1" 23 splines like a pinto 2.0 litre. I had to have a larger pilot bearing made. Do all the measurements after bellhousing is located. If you do not have any end float you will knock the thrust washers out of the block and ruin the engine. I work with a FF engine builder and it happens about 6 times a year. I used a Formula 2000 clutch and pressure plate and made a bobbin with a mechanical or cable clutch. I had no room for external slave you can use a internal slave. Burton is the best supplier for some parts, I used a cable from a Caterham and the trans mount from a Westfield. It seems that T9's are harder to come by in the states everyone uses mostly T5's. I am using a T9 mated to a zetec in my project.


I'm not limited like FF for my build but some FF parts might be useful to me.
Looking for a cool rocker cover, dry-sump pump and pan, maybe flywheel, when I replenish my funds.

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PostPosted: August 4, 2014, 11:41 am 
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looking at the lima bell, you show it installed on a kent block without a head.

do you know if the top of the bell will clear the end of the kent head?

you may need the tin plate to positively locate the starter, and which starter and ring gear are you using?

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PostPosted: August 4, 2014, 1:38 pm 
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Bolted on the spare bell and dropped the head in place.
I will flatten the tops of the upper ears about 1/8" just to be sure of clearance.
Still looking for the 2.3/Lima drawing.
Still need to find a flywheel, clutch, and starter.

EDIT,
I have a Kent drawing.
No luck with Lima so I will make one.
Then use it to make my adapter.

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