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That is massively over complicated for a rod shift mechanism. I will take some snaps of the one we did , the gearbox end needs none of that clutter to work properly.

Bob

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Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16640&p=187700#p187700

Mancave http://s1116.photobucket.com/user/mypic ... ow/mancave

I got started on the shifter design and ordered some parts from Mcmaster

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

Shifter is almost done. Any of you guys have a clever way to simplify the rear mechanism? Probably can do with less rod ends

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

I'd probably use linear bearings and some Thompson rod to replace the two lower heim joints and the stub shaft after the universal.

Less friction, and should give more strength.

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Walt
06 RX-8 Shinka
04 RX-8 GT
06 325xi
Some people never have anything except ideas. Go do it.
Emissions & fuel economy haven't exactly been areas of strength for past rotary power plants, but absolutely no one with a soul has ever cared.

Shifter is done and its really smooth even with bronz bearings. Working on adding the u joints and the rear mechanism.

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

yeah I am trying to get rid of this set up. The issue being is that my two shafts dont align so i would need to used 4 rod ends like in the pic to make it work for rotation and push / pull



Here is my set up

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

After the input in this thread I started looking at using a rod shift instead of cables on my Europa build, the shift lever end was no issue to make up a conceptual sketch but the gearbox end puzzled me. I did find this pic of the Series 1 Europa shift mechanism:



The spherical bearing (46F6155) at the gearbox end slides up and down on the shifter "rod" allowing for constrained movement. It may help with your set up, though it might not (it definitely works in my case). Also, don't even think about copying the rest of the shift linkage, its way too complicated and was not liked by the press when the car was new.

Rod

Shifter is still driving me crazy. Any thoughts on using this for the main shifter rod? It would be guided through the two large rod ends.


http://www.mcmaster.com/?error_redirect ... 8/=11kk36z

Option 2 is this one but I assume it weighs a lot more

http://www.mcmaster.com/?error_redirect ... 4/=11kk4jy

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

Thomson has hollow linear shafts, not sure on price though.

http://www.thomsonlinear.com/en/product ... %20TU%20RL

VXB has an offering that is similar.

I would stay with steel, since aluminum will end up wearing out as soon as road dust gets past the linear bearing wipers.

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Walt
06 RX-8 Shinka
04 RX-8 GT
06 325xi
Some people never have anything except ideas. Go do it.
Emissions & fuel economy haven't exactly been areas of strength for past rotary power plants, but absolutely no one with a soul has ever cared.

I use thompson rods in my machine designs at work and HAHAHAHHHAAHHAHAAH
wait, wait... hahahahahahaha!

Those rods are are between $579 and $843 for 3/4"

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

can confirm. Industrial distribution sales.

Thomson pricing through the roof. great product, but not for us.

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Tucker

Ouch. Yeah, I'm waiting for their quote for a work project as well... Looks like I may be in for a surprise.

Given (eye watering) price difference, I retract my "stay steel" comment, and say "Aluminum all the way!".

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Walt
06 RX-8 Shinka
04 RX-8 GT
06 325xi
Some people never have anything except ideas. Go do it.
Emissions & fuel economy haven't exactly been areas of strength for past rotary power plants, but absolutely no one with a soul has ever cared.

yeah I bought the nitrite coated steel one from McMaster

_________________
My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

Use uhmw or phenolic canvas block instead of rod ends. Clamp two pieces together, drill the clamp bolt holes and then bore to size. As it wears, mill the two pieces at the mating surface and rebore. A two piece bush will provide more freedom in the design of the arm.

For the linkage, two more plates with bushed ends (plastic or bronze), maximized thrust surface for thin, plastic thrust washers (like from a coffee can lid or sheet stock) and clevis pins would be clean, probably lighter, and tight. You might also bolt the plates together on each end just inside the pivot arms to tighten the feel further.

If you need the link to be adjustable, use two arms on the shift rail about 2 inches between them, fit a tube between them as the pivot, weld another tube at 90 degrees to the pivot tube, then weld a bolt head to the end so a jamb nut and female clevis can be attached to reach the transaxle input arm. Size the tube to accept the bolt and bushing material of your choice.

The linkage could be simplified further by eliminating it, using the two arms to connect directly to each other with one slotted, but this would reverse the shift pattern.

If you intend to race, consider making adjustable travel stops at the shifter to prevent overloading and damage to the linkage.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Either your brain is working really well or mine is working really slow..... doodle maybe?

_________________
My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.