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 Post subject: Re: Engine sealant
PostPosted: January 23, 2017, 8:54 pm 
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KB58 wrote:
Slightly off-topic, I have the perfect use for this Permatex Black. My expensive new engine, freshly rebuilt, leaks oil from somewhere along the right hand side vertical edge of the timing chain cover. Fixing it the right way would mean - ugh - removing the pan and the head... No. I'll try applying a thin coat of this stuff all along the parting line and hope for the best.


So long as it's not pressurized oil, it will likely work. I've done similar on my beaters with success. Just make sure the surfaces are clean and dry. Again, it is not "ultra black" but Permatex "black adhesive silicone". Funny enough, today I just bought and used a whole 30oz tube of the stuff on my Yaris' hatch and taillamp seals. Stupid water leak.

zetec7 wrote:
My racing buddy & I have always referred to it as "gorilla snot". :roll:


You guys would never make it in the highly technical world of mechanics........ Gorilla Snot is the weatherstrip adhesive :lol: . It's so sticky and you can even get it in a disgusting yellow.

Cheers.

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 Post subject: Re: Engine sealant
PostPosted: January 23, 2017, 9:10 pm 
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C10CoryM wrote:
today I just bought and used a whole 30oz tube of the stuff on my Yaris' hatch and taillamp seals. Stupid water leak.


On that type of water leak I always use Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure. http://www.captaintolley.com This stuff is WONDERFUL as it seeks out the leak on its own and plugs it up. I've used it successfully on sailboats, cars and on the windscreen of my Cessna. One of the best things is that it is really easy to use and doesn't make a mess.

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 Post subject: Re: Engine sealant
PostPosted: January 23, 2017, 9:59 pm 
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BHRmotorsport wrote:
C10CoryM wrote:
today I just bought and used a whole 30oz tube of the stuff on my Yaris' hatch and taillamp seals. Stupid water leak.


On that type of water leak I always use Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure. http://www.captaintolley.com This stuff is WONDERFUL as it seeks out the leak on its own and plugs it up. I've used it successfully on sailboats, cars and on the windscreen of my Cessna. One of the best things is that it is really easy to use and doesn't make a mess.



Hmmm..."Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure"? Sounds like a new hemorrhoid cream, or treatment for the dreaded "unsightly anal leakage" :ack:

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 Post subject: Re: Engine sealant
PostPosted: January 23, 2017, 11:02 pm 
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And if the crack is big, you use this:

http://www.ebaumsworld.com/videos/crack ... /82045631/

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 Post subject: Re: Engine sealant
PostPosted: January 24, 2017, 3:47 am 
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I prefer Loctite 518 for engine assembly.
Anaerobic, fills small gaps up to about 0.01", and the excess is easily cleaned.

Hylomar and silk thread is the old school way for a lot of split case engines, and I have respect for people with the patience to use that method.

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 Post subject: Re: Engine sealant
PostPosted: January 24, 2017, 4:05 am 
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Location: BC, Canada. eh?
As for the Permatex I'm fond of, I just went out to the shop & checked - this is the stuff:

Attachment:
Permatex 2 form-a-gasket.JPG
Permatex 2 form-a-gasket.JPG [ 83.86 KiB | Viewed 464 times ]


It's not silicone-based, but rather forms what is like a firm, but still somewhat pliable, gasket. Stuff I sealed with it, years ago, has remained absolutely oil- and gasoline-tight.

Here's what Permatex says about it:

"Slow-drying, non-hardening sealant approved for use in aviation as well as automotive applications. Temperature range -65°F to 400°F (-54°C to 204°C); resists gasoline, oil and grease."

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 Post subject: Re: Engine sealant
PostPosted: January 24, 2017, 8:36 am 
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Quote:
Gorilla Snot is the weatherstrip adhesive :lol: . It's so sticky and you can even get it in a disgusting yellow.
A friend of mine went to a local parts store to buy some of that famous weatherstrip adhesive for an MG he was restoring. He asked the counter guy for some "3M Number XYZ Adhesive". Counter guy said "What's that?" Prescott described the stuff he wanted. Counter guy says, "OH, you mean Gorilla Snot? Why didn't you say so!" and led him to the shelf with the right stuff...

"What's in a name? A rose by any other name would smell as sweet" -- Will Shakespeare. Apparently this applies to Gorilla Snot, too!

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 Post subject: Re: Engine sealant
PostPosted: January 24, 2017, 6:18 pm 
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Hey J.D.,

Isn't Gorilla Snot the original name of Gorilla Glue?

cheers

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 Post subject: Re: Engine sealant
PostPosted: January 25, 2017, 3:03 am 
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Gorilla snot is supposed to be or originally was a reference to butyl rubber. It is always sticky and never dries. A few auto manufacturers [used to] use it to seal taillights and other stranger places.

As for my experience with permatex rtv it's never been good... EVER. It won't cure, or will leak, or will be dried in the tube new... . Copper gasket spray has been an exception to the brand as is moto seal 2 and the anaerobic stuff that used to be loctite. I absolutely hate every other color in the tubes. I've left an oil pan over a year with the permatex black rtv and it was still wet in some spots... Called the company and they just say the batch (straight off the shelf with no expiration date) was too old :BH:

Been using the 3 bond companies products from the Toyota/honda dealers since. Works every time, but runs $17 a little tube. The parts guy tells me the Mercedes dealer mechanics come over and buy it too :oops:


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 Post subject: Re: Engine sealant
PostPosted: January 25, 2017, 4:17 pm 
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I'm confused, here - if you're referring to the product I mentioned above, Permatex Black #2, it is NOT a silicone RTV material...it's resin-based. There's no silicone in it at all. And, it's never "wet", even right out of the tube, it's kind of tarry. It seems you're referring to an entirely different material than the one I mentioned above...

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 Post subject: Re: Engine sealant
PostPosted: January 26, 2017, 3:49 pm 
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zetec7 wrote:
I'm confused, here - if you're referring to the product I mentioned above, Permatex Black #2, it is NOT a silicone RTV material...it's resin-based. There's no silicone in it at all. And, it's never "wet", even right out of the tube, it's kind of tarry. It seems you're referring to an entirely different material than the one I mentioned above...


[If that's directed to me] I am just rambling/generalizing, not going after any specific post. Permatex has a lot of products specifically Rtv, at least in my area. It's easier to just point out the ones that actually worked (seems kinda sad eh? :wink: ) .

I have yet to see the product you mentioned on the shelves, so I will add it to the [possible] exceptions list :cheers:


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 Post subject: Re: Engine sealant
PostPosted: January 26, 2017, 4:23 pm 
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Okay, got it!

Yeah, it's a completely different material from anything else I've ever used. My chosen applications for it are uncommon (that's why my tube of it is several years old - I don't even have the original cap for it, I'm using an electrical marret as a cap!), but when I need it, nothing else I've found will perform that specific task. y buddy just borrowed it to seal up a brand new oil leak in his newly-rebuilt ($$$!!) transmission. Smeared it on the outside of the seam, squished it in, leak stopped. Very cool!

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 Post subject: Re: Engine sealant
PostPosted: January 26, 2017, 7:41 pm 
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zetec7 wrote:
I suspect you'll be pleasantly surprised! Try to smear it (push it) into the gap with your finger (wear a glove, unless you want everything you own to have permanent black smears!), and it will work. The stuff's incredible. My tube (years old, now) is called Permatex Gasket Maker, and is dark brown (almost black) in color. My racing buddy & I have always referred to it as "gorilla snot". :roll:

I'm a little confused as well. When I said I have a slow oil leak to plug, I quoted you as recommending "Permatex Black", but in your next post (above) you mentioned Permatex Gasket Maker. Which one are you recommending for my situation.

I think there's a good chance it'll work because I'm running a dry sump. I'll warm the car up, apply it, then go for a drive. The crankcase vacuum should help draw it in and the heat should help it quickly set-up. Thanks again for the recommendation - whichever one it is!

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 Post subject: Re: Engine sealant
PostPosted: January 26, 2017, 9:32 pm 
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Zetec7 could I use the Permatex Black to install my baffle in the oil pan? I started another thread about it here viewtopic.php?f=4&t=18727

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 Post subject: Re: Engine sealant
PostPosted: January 26, 2017, 10:32 pm 
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KB58, sorry for the confusion - there are TWO Permatex products that can be called "Black". One is an RTV silicone-based one (NOT the one I like), and the other is "Permatex Black #2 Gasket Maker", which is the one I like. Personally, I have had mixed results with all the various silicone based sealants I've tried, but #2 has never failed me.

Wrightcomputing - while it might work (okay, it probably would, but...) I wouldn't trust it to be structural enough to secure the splash tray. Probably your best bet is to have someone TIG it into place, as the heat is very controllable, so there's no chance of burn-through. It shouldn't be expensive - I had an entire new bottom & a new outside extension TIG welded onto my pan - a LOT of welding! - for $60 all-in. Considering how crucial the pan is, I think it's worth getting it done professionally for the peace of mind.

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