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PostPosted: February 26, 2017, 5:03 pm 
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Location: Sarasota
My engine is rebuilt and ready to go it starts but does not run correctly or get up to idle speed.

[*]It starts and runs but will only go to about 600rpm and seems like it it really struggling.
[*]The MAP sensor readings are high it should idle around -9 but is only getting down to about -3 and sits there
[*]The AFR seems to be good its targeting 12.8 due the the high MAP reading.
[*]It seems to be running really rich especially at initial start up and I had to lean it up a little to get it running. Then it settles down.
[*]The timing appears to be correct, I moved the exhaust CAM 1 notch and then the engine would not start moving it back let it run poorly again.
[*]I switched to a different MAP sensor and had the same issue.
[*]All sensors appear to be reporting correctly (no warnings in ECU)

Anyone seen this issue before or can point me in the right direction?

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PostPosted: February 26, 2017, 6:27 pm 
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Stock ecu? If so you don't have all the stuff the immobilizer circuit wants to see.

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PostPosted: February 26, 2017, 7:03 pm 
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I have the AEM EMS V2 it is basically the same engine that was running correctly before but I have decreased the size from 2.2 down to 2.0L.

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PostPosted: February 26, 2017, 9:54 pm 
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I did a little more work on the engine. Spark is good, injectors are firing, fuel is good, I did a leakdown and got great numbers. Yet it does not want to go over about 700rpm. Any throttle input results in stall.
https://youtu.be/i6MUGFNjvxI

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PostPosted: February 26, 2017, 10:29 pm 
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When I used to tune two cars with the "same" engine, but slightly different exhaust systems, the fuel maps ended up being different. My $0.02 is that you need to retune the ECU as if it's the first time it's been set up on a 2.0 liter engine.


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PostPosted: February 26, 2017, 10:37 pm 
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I am already booked in for the dyno. I spoke with my tuner and he said it should just run a little rich. Dropping from 2.2 to 2.0 is about 10% less air so I expect about 10% less fuel and power. Once its running I may just pull 5-10% off the entire table depending on how its going. The ECU should be able to cope with it though as it can add/remove about 15% fuel to keep everything running correctly.

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PostPosted: February 27, 2017, 9:25 am 
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Location: Cornholio OR "Where the magic happens"
Injector size difference?

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PostPosted: February 27, 2017, 10:50 am 
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I had a similar experience to the one in your video. The TPS died between races. The ECU showed no code because it only registers if the voltage is above or below set limits. With the engine off and the ECU software monitoring engine parameters, slowly open the throttle and watch the TPS voltage. If the are any discontinuities between opening rate and voltage change rate the TPS is suspect.
With the engine idling, have you tried to very slowly increase the rpm? (thus not engaging any acceleration enrichment)
These are only worth checking once you've confirmed the cam timing.


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PostPosted: February 28, 2017, 11:43 am 
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It was the top timing gear that was one tooth off. She seems to be running nicely now.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GC494N-3BHk

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