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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: November 28, 2017, 9:15 pm 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 7:59 pm
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I appreciate the help. The 2.3 I am using was factory turbo t3. I can not quite remember if the it is a .48 or 63. I am using the 88 tbird intercooler behind the engine ( need to add ducting) as there is zero room in front of the rad. I have 30 odd years as an electronics /electro-mechanical tech and would have no issue doing a kit if I can find the time.
If what I have read is correct you can remove the tfi and just use the pickup from hall sensor in the distributor, at least until its decided if I need/want to go to a trigger wheel. I still need to keep at least half the distributor no matter what as it drives the oil pump.
There is a pretty good chance I will end up going megasquirt but am still looking at the arduino based sytem as a learning platform for work as I have one of my technicians trying to develop some new skills. if it does not work I have a big snow blower with a cracked carb and a extra throttle body some where that could use injection.

Regardless of which system I go with I want to redo my engine wiring harness, I made this one from scratch with used ends and stripped it down but once the vane airflow is gone and external map gone it will bring it down to a bit more manageable.

Nice engines though if you can get passed the sound of pissed off tractor, mine was in a cougar runing 13.? second quarters.

Thanks, anymore info will be greatly accepted.
Dale


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PostPosted: November 29, 2017, 2:16 pm 
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Joined: June 12, 2015, 11:16 am
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I used a small main block with a Ranger crank (thus the relatively tame boost to match the significantly weaker crank). Full boost by 1600 rpm with a Garrett T3.
I don't recommend using the stock low impedance brown top injectors, especially if your battery is remote-mounted. I ran into noise issues that could not be filtered out. Ended up buying the high impedance Siemens 63 pounders. Solved all the noise issues.

Reusing the stock TFI is so easy (even with an MS1), that I wouldn't consider doing it any other way, *unless* I ditched the distributor completely, and ran COP. When the Lima went to coil packs in the early 90's the distributor went away. What drove the oil pump was a shaft that sets relatively flush with the block. It might be possible to retrofit one of these into an older block.

I've been eyeballing the COP setups on the newer toyota engines that incorporate the igniter.

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PostPosted: November 29, 2017, 9:16 pm 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 7:59 pm
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I am still kicking myself for forgetting to take the brand new electric power steering from my hhr and the coil on plugs that I had for it and the first motor it had in it. Scrapped it when I ran into electrical issues that were not easily found. It had 645k on it but still wish I had taken the parts.


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PostPosted: December 1, 2017, 1:16 pm 
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Joined: May 1, 2012, 9:43 am
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Location: Medicine Hat, Alberta, Canada
I have a Ford 2.3 Lima out of a Ranger that I adapted MSII with Ford EDIS ignition. For the oil pump drive, I just cut the distributor off the shaft, put a cap on the shaft to keep oil in, and put the shaft back into the engine. It's not completely flush with the engine as the lower housing that the shaft runs through acts as a support bushing for the shaft, so if you cut it completely flush the shaft won't have much bearing surface to ride on. The EDIS ignition is very easy to work with as the EDIS module does everything for you (it takes a missing tooth trigger wheel as an input, outputs a 1 pulse per revolution signal for the ECU, and calculates spark timing/dwell). All you need to feed it from MS (or your arduino system) is a spark advance value.


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PostPosted: December 7, 2017, 2:18 pm 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 7:59 pm
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I have decided to see what happens with the open source system. Both to learn a little something and to get some programing/solding skills built up with one of my sons or maybe a co worker who is trying to build up some skills.
The price is very good, I got the 2 of each, circuit boards parts kits, the arduino processors, i/o voltage converters shipped for $250 usd.

I will start a thread on the system here in the engine forum to either show the process or the process of wasting some money. It may open up anther ecu option or it may warn others to not look at it. Ether way I may learn something if I am not careful.
Dale


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PostPosted: December 8, 2017, 11:14 am 
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Joined: June 15, 2010, 8:29 am
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Location: Duxbury, MA USA
do they have a stimulator for that ECU? I might be interested in one myself if it can keep up with the engine I have for my sports racer. It is a BMW S1000RR which has a 60-2 wheel spinning at 14000 RPM. MS2 wont do it, but MS3 will. I am still a ways from starting this thing up, but I will need a ECU at some point.
Good Luck,
Paul

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PostPosted: December 8, 2017, 8:49 pm 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 7:59 pm
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Pretty sure the do as I think the megasquirt Jim Sith will work. They have a request section for custom decoders.
The site is speeduino.com I have had trouble accessing the site from Canada and use a VPN to reach right now. Dale


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PostPosted: March 3, 2018, 12:52 pm 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 7:59 pm
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I have built the speeduino and have a very very basic understanding in it. Basically it will start and idle but a bit too fast (1200rpm). I am just getting it into a case so I can reinstall and try the auto tune once the snow Mel's off the roads.
I am running it on basic distributor, so no extra inning wheel etc. I only had to add 1 diode between the tfi feed to the speeduino module. I will post a couple of pics when I get the chance.
Dale


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