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PostPosted: November 23, 2017, 8:30 pm 
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I have been looking into this megasquirt alternative.
Has anyone tried this, so far I am just not sure how to work with the ford tfi on my 2.3 turbo lima engine.
it looks promising.
Dale


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PostPosted: November 24, 2017, 1:26 pm 
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Give them a call, they might have a plug and play system for the ford 2.3.


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PostPosted: November 24, 2017, 1:52 pm 
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try: wiring the TFI

and: a search on the MS Extra forum

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PostPosted: November 24, 2017, 1:53 pm 
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Location: Sunny-Okanagan, Canada, eh?!
Are you saying you're looking at Megasquirt, or an alternative to Megasquirt?

I've setup and run:

Megasquirt I (Extra) on an EFI Manx dunebuggy running Speed-Density

Megasquirt I (Extra) as well as Megasquirt II (B&G Code) on a Toyota 4AGE (Suzuki ITB's, Honda Injectors, Ford EDIS), with both Speed Density (fail) and Alpha-N (win)

Megasquirt II (B&G Code) on a snotty-cam/high-compression TBI small block Chevy (Holley TBI unit with GM injectors) on Speed Density.

I quite like it, and I will use it again.

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PostPosted: November 24, 2017, 6:22 pm 
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I am looking at an inexpensive tfi as I have the worst possible ecu that the made for my engine.
I would like build the alternative for the eeciv and install before spring. The speeduino from what I checked is 160 USD (fully assembled)plus the Arduino Athena is around30 to 40 I think. That i think is quite a bit cheaper than megasquirt . Either way I would have to get a wideband to free up some extra hp. An extra 14 lbs boost should make a slight difference.
Dale


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PostPosted: November 27, 2017, 11:27 am 
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Location: Duxbury, MA USA
I would just go MS if doing aftermarket ECU.
The support structure is extensive for when you run into the inevitable issues.
You dont have to go with one of the higher end units...just get the one that checks the boxes you need.

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PostPosted: November 27, 2017, 12:25 pm 
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Location: Cornholio OR "Where the magic happens"
Personally I would not use the TFI as an output.
It will make an OK signal source but it only puts out a basic trigger signal, only 4 pulses per revolution.

You would be much better served by an EDIS style trigger wheel which has 36-1 teeth, this gives the MS a much more accurate crank position signal.
These may be found on later 2.3L motors I believe.

Sadly the 60 pin Ford connectors are no longer available so you would have to use a EEC cpu as a donor for the connector (if yours is 60 pin).
I would not bother and just chop off the EEC connector and graft on a short MS harness and use a MS2 v3.0 or a v3.57 or a MicroSquirt (remember with a 3.57 or Micro you are limited to a basic config/features).
With a MS2 v3.0 you can do sequential injection and COP individual ignition all in the same box.
MicroSquirt has no high current drivers on board, v3.57 has just one ign output driver and is SMT construction like the Micro.
I like the MS2 v3.0 as you can custom build it for your application and modify it as you go to suit your needs.

A MicroSquirt would be the cheapest and most basic for use with the TFI but that will not move you forward out of the 80's technology.
It will only provide user tune-ability to the existing system.

For a boosted motor I would want the best timing control (36 tooth wheel) and COP spark for the best spark under the higher pressures seen in boost.
With COP you don't have to close up the plug gap near as much to prevent the dreaded spark blow out under boost.

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PostPosted: November 27, 2017, 8:54 pm 
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Joined: January 31, 2012, 12:49 pm
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Location: Louisville KY
Quote:
just get the one that checks the boxes you need.



Which has always been a puzzling point for me.

For instance, I have the standard GM 1990's coil pack distributorless ignition (DIS?). I'd think that some variation of MegaSquirt (plus Spark?) would be what I need, but... I'm not sure.

I guess a noob almost needs a tour guide to figure out what they do need?

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PostPosted: November 27, 2017, 11:38 pm 
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Location: Cornholio OR "Where the magic happens"
Section 6.8 of the Extra manual covers GM-DIS.

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PostPosted: November 28, 2017, 1:09 am 
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Thats my main issue, what exactly do I need. I just ordered a wide band controler/display (slc free). I am not looking to go overboard as I know the engine will easily run 250 rwhp stock with about 20 lbs boost an stock ecu (if you have the newer one) and enough fuel. I would like to be able to be able to remove the air flow meter as I really don't have room for it. I also would like to if possible get rid of the tfi . I figure if the stock ecu could control timing enough on 4 teeth that would be good enough for me to start with. Can anyone tell me if mega/microsquirt will control timing advance/retard on the standard distributor mode (4 teeth on the distributor)?
Dale


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PostPosted: November 28, 2017, 2:34 am 
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Location: Sunny-Okanagan, Canada, eh?!
If you want to control a stepper motor (ala GM) for idle air control, you are going to need MSII. There are other ways for fast idle, however.

All Megasquirts have a MAP sensor built in, so you can do away with the MAF sensor. If you -wanted- to run MAF, you can do that too.

There should be no problem running the ignition off the dizzy you have (controlling -all- of your advance); it probably also runs the oil pump!

If you google Meqasquirt and Ford 2.3 Turbo, I'm sure you will find many who have done it.

The cool thing about Megasquirt, is there are so many people running it - you will find all your answers. The other cool thing is whatever parts you have, it can be made to work.

http://www.diyautotune.com have been SUPER helpful with all of my troubleshooting. They can help you pick the right one, too.

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PostPosted: November 28, 2017, 2:55 am 
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Location: Seattle area
My vote is for Mega Squirt II. Wouldn't have a running car without it.
AE101 Toyota 20V 4AGE.

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PostPosted: November 28, 2017, 11:19 am 
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Location: Cornholio OR "Where the magic happens"
SkinnyG wrote:
The other cool thing is whatever parts you have, it can be made to work.


Careful there Skinny! Just because you can make it work with some components doesn't mean you should! :^)

Some components don't interface well or add complexity, upside is common wrecking yard parts from other cars can be used, MIX & MATCH.

The TFI will work fine as a signal source, the PIP signal is a logic level signal and is less susceptible to noise than a VR.
However you don't have to use the TFI output section, you can drive a single standard coil directly with a MS2.
Or The TFI module can be eliminated and the VR signal used to trigger the MS.
I like the Ford high output coil (square coil with the male terminal) there is also a GM divorced HEI coil that will work well. Common & cheap plenty of spark joules.

20# of boost is a LOT, you will need an intercooler, and probably water injection at that level for reliability.
Better to keep boost levels below 15# (300HP) you will still need an intercooler but not such an edgy tune.
60# injectors (high impedance) are easily available for the Ford manifold, 75HP per cylinder would give you 300 total @ 15# boost.
A standard 255 pump and A-1000 or Bosch fuel pressure regulator boost referenced will work fine.
(the standard Ford regulator will work as well)(can be replaced with adjustable if needed)(some fords have the regulator built into the fuel rail)
Keep the 2 line fuel system, the circulating fuel in the rail cools the rail and purges any air bubbles.
Fuel pump in the rear with a flooded inlet (EFI pumps don't like to suck)
FOr best air free fuel delivery a swirl pot or some kind of baffled sump in the tank is needed.

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PostPosted: November 28, 2017, 3:30 pm 
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dale wrote:
I would like to be able to be able to remove the air flow meter as I really don't have room for it. I also would like to if possible get rid of the tfi . Dale


That's exactly the reason I went with a MS1 V3.0 on the SVO clone I built a few years back. Cleans up the installation and frees up horsepower, too.

I installed the extra components to use the stock TFI. Also installed the beefier transistor to run the stock Ford IAC. Ran a wideband in closed loop 100% of the time. 63 pph high impedance injectors. If I did another one, I would copy that plan exactly. Car ran great (15 psi).

If you are handy with a soldering iron, the 3.0 kit is ~$200. Follow the instructions at http://www.megamanual.com to build. You will tailor the M/S for your car, with the modifications to run your hardware. I ran extra code, but MS2 runs the Ford hardware very well.

It's probably a good idea to build the stim board first.

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PostPosted: November 28, 2017, 5:50 pm 
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With the MS, people think they need the GPIO board, prewired cables, the relay board, etc. All add to the costs and are not always necessary. I had the std MSII kit w/ 3.0 PCB on my car with no other DIYAuto accessories. I did build up a 2nd VR circuit for my application. I eventually removed it and modified my CAS to "missing tooth". Maybe you would want to buy the JimStim to verify the ECU is operating before you try to control the whole car. I do admit that sorting out what you want and then how to assemble the MSII is a bit overwhelming. But take it one step at a time and verify your work (Did I already say JimStim?) and you'll be fine.

You guys know we have a few smart guys around here that can give some advice? The LocostUSA MS help thread

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