LocostUSA.com

This engine looks like it might fit under a 7 hood.

275 lbs 145 hp
Basically a Lotus 907 engine.
Ron

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"Age is an issue of mind over matter. If you don't mind, it doesn't matter." - Mark Twain
In my defense the moon was full and I was left unsupervised

Can you still get parts for them?

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Lotus 907 engines were used in several model Lotus and the Jensen Healey.
Parts are not hard to buy beyond price.

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If I must be a one-man PC free zone, so be it!

Yes the 907 engine can be made to fit in a Seven. I put one in my S3 Caterham chassis by changing the tilt so that the exhaust cam pulley would clear the upper frame rail. The height from belly pan to the nosecone rest by the intake cam pulley was 20.5" (it was dry sump oil system). The length is 25".
If someone would like to use this in their Seven, send me a pm with an offer (some assembly required). The package includes 2 blocks, 2 heads, 2 sets of pistons (stock CR and 12.5 CR Arias), 1 set of cams reground for more lift, dry sump pan and tank that fits in the right rear corner of the engine bay, 4-2-1 header, Mikuni 44 carbs, gear reduction starter, lightened flywheel, 4-puck racing disc/PPlate, bell housing adapter that accepts Mazda ribbed case tranny, Mazda Competition ultra-close ratio 4-speed (2.0/1.6/1.3/1.0), engine mounts pictured.
The crank rod journals need to be reground 0.020 undersize (mains are OK). Complete set of connecting rods. Parts are available through Jensen-Healey Preservation Society.

HMMM, I plan to build a Devin.
Finding an engine to fit UNDER the low bonnet is a challenge.
Your 907 may be just the answer!
Pretty sure the HP can be substantially increased.

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If I must be a one-man PC free zone, so be it!

A 907 in a s4 frame with a s3 style body. Notice the RHD.


Mine. Saved it from a scrap yard Wednesday. To rusty to restore.


We'll see.
Ron

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"Age is an issue of mind over matter. If you don't mind, it doesn't matter." - Mark Twain
In my defense the moon was full and I was left unsupervised

Yee-haw!

That's definitely not a small engine...

I have mixed feelings about such an engine. On the one hand it's classic, non EFI, and has some lineage. On the other hand, if you can't walk into a NAPA store and walk out with the parts right then, it's a liability. Takes your picks...

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Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/

Okay, I lolled!
Recently found myself trying to buy what should be "Common" service parts for 90's vehicles.
Chevy and Miata are both difficult.
You may have to find a specialist for Lotus, MG, Triumph, but the parts ARE available despite being decades older.

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If I must be a one-man PC free zone, so be it!

Spares and more spares. Not a candidate for a primary vehicle.
I've been Googling for parts and they are out there. Pricey but not as much as some of the more popular classics.
Need to hear it run first.
Ron

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"Age is an issue of mind over matter. If you don't mind, it doesn't matter." - Mark Twain
In my defense the moon was full and I was left unsupervised

Shortly before moving to Missouri, I had a '74 Chevy Nova (inline 6 with 3-on-the-tree) as a daily driver. Rarely had to wait for parts as they were usually "In stock"! I always dealt with usual parts houses "Chief" , "Advance", or "NAPA", and only once that I remember did I have to wait (1 day) for an exhaust pipe. Have things changed that much in twelve years???

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Mike - Read my story at http://twinlakesseven.blogspot.com/

My last pickup was a Dodge Dakota (fairly common in its day) and after about its ninth or tenth birthday I routinely had to wait for parts, regardless of whether OEM or aftermarket. Admittedly, Halifax (pop 400,000) is not the centre of the world, but all but the most mundane stuff seemed to come from the nearest regional logistics support warehouse (in our case, Moncton, about 300km away). I have come to accept that parts will not necessarily be locally socked after warrantee (time) limits expire.

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Warren
Isuzu Pickup/SR20DE, +401 COLD frame
Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=11601

Insane model proliferation has not helped, is it really a Cadillac, or just a Chevy with jacked up pricing and fake wood?
When the overdone "Emissions" trash began being "Updated" every year we lost a lot parts interchangeability.
Now the manufacturers are at the point that you have to know your TRIM level or they cannot look it up.
Some models use different parts depending on which plant they were assembled in!
For a 1997 Miata I was told by the dealership that it is too old, they don't have listings for it.
This despite the fact that the same basic parts were used for several years.
I wound up having to buy a new transmission input shaft seal from Amazon as neither the factory or alleged Mazda specialist had it.

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If I must be a one-man PC free zone, so be it!

This would seem to be a good argument against the "single donor" philosophy! When I get around to starting my build, it WILL be based on a Miata because that's what I have. If I ever do a second build , I'm considering doing my parts shopping from the street rod, and race car parts catalogs on the basis of a "what's heavily supported in the aftermarket" philosophy!

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Mike - Read my story at http://twinlakesseven.blogspot.com/

That's been my thrust, throughout my build. My problem was that I wanted as few compromises as humanly possible and, using a "single donor", I would be stuck with a great number of compromises. In reality, building my way (collecting the bits that best fit what I wanted to build, vs. what best fit the donor car) really isn't much more expensive. I shop judiciously, poring over hundreds of cars in wrecking yards, finding parts that are precisely what I want, rather than being forced to use what I have on hand. New parts (things I wouldn't consider using out of any wreck for obvious reasons) are sourced based upon my exact requirements, not those only suited to a donor. I'm not forced to modify my design to fit the donor parts on hand.

There is also very little waste indeed, and no need to store a carcass while I build.

As an estimate (or perhaps an educated guess), I'd say I've paid about a 50% monetary penalty for going without a single donor. However, build time has been reduced by at least the same amount as the build has required zero design modifications to suit "what I have on hand".

'Course, it also matters where you live. In my area, a wrecked Miata (for example) with enough usable parts to qualify as a reasonable "donor" goes for as much money as I have into my whole build. In most other areas, I suspect, suitable donor cars are more readily available & considerably cheaper.

I guess my point is...consider the possibility of going without a single donor before you make a final decision. There are some huge benefits to be had by building without a donor, depending on the desired finished product.

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Scratch building, at continental-drift speed, a custom McSoreley-design framed, dual-Weber 45DCOE carburated, Zetec-engined, ridiculously fast money pit.

http://zetec7.webs.com/