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I am thinking about using a 2.3 engine an 5 speed manual transmission from a 2008 Ranger in my Locost build. Looking to hear from people that have this combination in their Locost. What did you change on the Ranger engine to make it work (oil pan?, intake manifold?, etc.) and did you do any upgrades (e.g. cams?)?

Is this a useable combination for the track?

Thanks.

The poster named Phongshader used that motor. He modded it a lot till it made just over 200 WHP and also added a 6-speed transmission. Althought if you asked him, he'd probably say that the 6 speeds weren't worth the trouble.

I went this route in my Birkin. 2.3l Duratec with Crane Stage 1 cams, 4x48mm Jenvey ITBs, Davies-Craig electric coolant pump, lightened flywheel and a T-9 five speed. Works great! I am using a Typhoon ECU and O2 sensor. The Ranger motor has no balance shaft (negligible vibration) as opposed to the Mazda version. I’m told that removes about 39 lbs of internal rotating mass.

Have to say that I'm very impressed my my friends Ranger-sourced Duratec. Lightweight - He can cary the longblock around his shop. Likes to rev (although the mods have a lot to do with that), quite powerful, smooth. We've flogged it hard with no issues. A thoroughly nice motor from all I can see.

I believe Perry did one S10 based.
A Ranger with a 5mt should be pretty cheap to pick up for a donor, though not sure how much of the overall running gear would be Locost workable.

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Thanks for the feedback guys, greatly appreciated. Yes, a Ranger 2.3 and 5 speed trans is available pretty cheap. I think I will pursue this option. Of course, just adding upgraded cams to this will cost double what I will pay for the 2.3 and 5 speed

here we go, all my speed secrets for my 2.3 duratec.

i started with a whole ranger.

how much power do you want to make?

i first used the stock engine with a focus manifold and throttle body(get the one that has a cable throttle)
note if the idle air control mounting point has two air holes, if it only has one, drill the other.
remove the tumble flaps in the intake and plug the holes.

next make a bracket to mount the coil at the end of the cam cover, you will need a set of zetec plug wires.

shop around for a different valve cover, cheap plastic ones are available without the breather on the top

change the thermostat to a non electric one

remake the water pipes on the side of the engine in copper plumbing pipe and route it clear of the manifold and to connect to a remote header tank

remove the steel part of the top hose adaptor and shorten.

i used the factoy PCM EEC-v and harness and the factory power distribution box.
the starter and the oil pressure switch uses two additional wires outside of the engine harness + the batt cable

this way you can use the ford manual to diagnose faults, if you get a dash harness you will have OBD 11 diag port

the PCM can be modified with a tweeker RT, look it up on the internet and the support is second to none from Mike Glover,
he will tune your car over the internet and a cell phone included in the price.
you will have the ability to datalog and adjust the tune if you add things like cams exhaust etc. with a lap top

remove the side plate from the engine and put a stainless steel scouring pad inside the block.

if space is tight at the front of the block then a focus timing cover is shorter as it doesn't have the fan mounting boss, just cut off the big lump at the top.

chop the top off the ac bracket and leave just the altenator mounting.

you will need to fabricate some brackets for belt idler pulleys.

that will do for starters!

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but we in it shall be remembered.

Thanks for the info John. Greatly appreciated. I will also be starting with an entire Ranger, so I can duplicate much of what you have in this post.

Thanks for the info John. Greatly appreciated. I will also be starting with an entire Ranger, so I can duplicate much of what you have in this post. Does the engine fit in your Locost with the Focus intake manifold? Did you use the Ranger oil pan?

Thanks.

This may help answer some of your questions...
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=9130

A more general Duratec thread.
https://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=14753

If converting to a Focus intake manifold, and really want to up the performance with things like cams, there are also high-performance cast aluminum (Cosworth replica) intake manifolds available for like $250. If you come across a 2.3L Focus head for a decent price, that'll net some flow gains too. The Ranger used the same head as the 2.0L Focus.

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-Justin

"Orville Wright did not have a pilots license." - Gordon MacKenzie

if you really want to go fast then you need one of these:-

eaton M90 and still running on a factory EEC-v PCM

engine has keyways machined into crank and timing chain sprocket and lightweight crank pulley because the blower causes the crank bolt to loosen and bends valves as a result.

i have forged wisco pistons at 9-1 compression.
forged expeeding H beam rods
modified high volume oil pump and pickup
lightened stock flywheel
stock cams with exhaust retarded 2 degrees
ARP head and main stud kit

runs in closed loop at 14.7 a/f until wide open throttle richening to 11.5 a/f to compensate for boost.

_________________
this story shall the good man teach his son,
and chrispin chrispian shall ne'er go by,
from this day to the end of the world.
but we in it shall be remembered.

Here's my locost build thread that covers the Ranger 2.3 engine build https://lightningbugcars.com/locost.html. The engine is great, running GSXR ITBs, big cams, 12.6:1 compression, dry sump, miata nb 6 speed (adapter plate), 196hp at the wheels.

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My 2.3 is virtually stock specs. 160 hp (ish)- decent power in a light car. Simple and solid.

Thank you. I had seen the general Duratec thread but the first one is new to me. Very good info.

All these apply to the 2.5 as well? I have a 2016 Fusion 2.5.

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Tibor


'20 Alfa Romeo Stelvio daily
Locost/442E in progress