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PostPosted: December 4, 2012, 4:53 pm 
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Joined: October 19, 2012, 9:25 pm
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Location: Summerville, SC
I'm tearing down the 78 Liftback Corolla for project TETANUS ... see build log started here

My background is little British cars so tuning SU carbs and chasing electrical gremlins is no big deal. I'm trying to decide how to get the most bang for my buck with the little Toyota 1600 motor.

Anyway - I've been reading more than is good for me and my head is buzzing with possibilities, so it's time to ask the experts.
Here are the possible options
Option 1 - DO NOTHING. Just transplant the fully functional drivetrain as is and think about upgrades later. Car has stock carb, points, and coil with igniter.

Option 2 -inexpensive Hot Spark electronic conversion to replace points and condensor for $69. I did a similar change to my FrankenSprite year ago and it made a WORLD of difference... started every time and ran smooth.

Option 2 - MEGAJOLT - go EDIS with a 36-1 wheel and coil packs. ~$225 in bits and pieces

Option 3 - MEGASQUIRT - EDIS plus throttle body injection cost $????? So friggin close to impossible to tell what you "need" with MEGASQUIRT

Option 4 - Option 2 plus Weber carb upgrade. right now seems like the easiest and probably least costly option.

HELP!!!! :BH:

oooh I almost forgot option 5 - set fire to Toyota and spend a lot more on a Miata donor that solves all my ingition and fuel delivery woes.

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OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216


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PostPosted: December 4, 2012, 8:03 pm 
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does it run now?

if not or don't know go for the miata.

if it does, then get rid of the points and fit a webber and a performance exhaust.

a miata will only cost you the same as a megasquirt

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PostPosted: December 4, 2012, 8:59 pm 
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Location: Connersville, Indiana
Get the damn thing on the road, then worry about upgrades. First things first, you've got a car to build.

Bill


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PostPosted: December 4, 2012, 10:21 pm 
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it was running and driving before I started disassembly. I took it for a drive before I put it on the trailer for the ride back to my house.

The exhaust is kind of interesting. It has a cast iron manifold that flows into a long 2 into 1. I'm not sure if I will repurpose the manifold or build headers from scratch... that's further down the to do list.

Spent a couple of hours wrenching on dis-assembly tonight. The PO clearly wasn't strong on electrical troubleshooting and repair. It looks like anytime something stopped working he'd wire in a new switch and relay, then tap into a power wire on the harness and put in an inline fuse. Last step would be wrap it in an ass load of tape or maybe a wire nut, or maybe (rarely) solder and shrink wrap.

I cut out the add on horn and button, starter switch and button, light master and high / low switches.
There was zero consistency on wire colors and the factory harness is butchered in several places... looks like a new wire loom is in my future.

Then I went to put it up on jack stands. Floor jack went under frame rail, started jacking and .... nothing. I looked under the car and the jack had crushed the frame rail. Tried a different spot same results. The rocker kind of supported the weight of the car, but not enough for me to consider sticking any of my squishy bits under there.

Tomorrow night I'll slip the jack under the LCA's and use them as jack points.

She deserves the name TETANUS.

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Too much week, not enough weekend.

OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216


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PostPosted: December 4, 2012, 11:26 pm 
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Joined: April 12, 2010, 5:40 pm
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Location: san francisco bay area
"Hot Spark Electronic Ignition". .. Is that similiar to a "Pertronix" setup? I've always had a good result with the Pertronix ignitor setup.http://www.pertronix.com/
MS or Weber's plus an ignitor system, now that ones a bit harder. .. cost wise it's probably close to a wash, especially if you use a MS kit and assemble it yourself.
You still have to set up the fuel and ignition maps to match your engine (with MS) which can be a little intimidating and honestly, finding someone with experience and a dyno to do the final tune can make a big difference both in performance and peace of mind.

Honestly, I'd go with #1 and plan on performing future upgrades though #4 is a pretty good way to get more oomph quickly and relatively easily.

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PostPosted: December 5, 2012, 2:33 am 
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Yup, spent a lot of time in my youth playing with T series engines and built a few of the ultimate spec ones being 2TG head on a 1940cc 3T bottom end.

The 1750cc (1940 with 3T crank) piston kits used to be common but I don't know these days but you most certainly can drop a 3T crankshaft in. If it's an early 2T you will have to do a small amount of grinding for the con rods to clear inside the block (easy) and if it's a later 2T or 12T then no problem.

2T's respond very well to a good cam and extractors and are bulletproof. The heads flow quite well stock and are a high cam design with very short pushrods so don't worry about revving the hell out of them.

If just street and fun use don't get too wrapped up in needing a 2TG head, the 2T head will flow 90% what a 2TG can. If you do get a 2TG head then seek out a Yamaha one and try to get the EFI setup as well (model 2TG-EU).

My suggestion is to install a 3T crank or complete 3T bottom end first up before you spend on anything else as you simply can't beat cubes and use a 36/36 downdraught Weber off a Ford Pinto engine on a small plenum adaptor on your stock inlet manifold rather than wasting time and money on DCOE Webers or injection for street use - cheap, easy power.

Note also with performance modifications and revs, T50 gearboxes need the best quality front input shaft bearing you can buy, cheap ones have a tendency to collapse although you are better off in a lighter weight Locost than a sedan of course.


Last edited by cheapracer on December 5, 2012, 2:45 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: December 5, 2012, 2:39 am 
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By the way TooBusy, before you go destroying your rare TE50, I would check on it's value in Japan, you might be in for a pleasant surprise.


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PostPosted: December 5, 2012, 8:59 am 
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Thanks for the advice guys. I'm building an old fart street car. I may do a little parking lot racing with the local guys, but that's about it.

It looks like I'll be doing some more internet parts hunting over the next several weeks.

I'm going to scrap the megasquirt idea for the near future unless I stumble across an insanely good deal.
Pertronix kit or similar is high on the to do list.

_________________
Too much week, not enough weekend.

OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216


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PostPosted: December 5, 2012, 9:02 am 
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cheapracer wrote:
By the way TooBusy, before you go destroying your rare TE50, I would check on it's value in Japan, you might be in for a pleasant surprise.


There's so much cancer in this car I'm not sure I'd still call it a TE50.
floor pans, front and rear rockers, rear quarters are all toast. The suspension mounts, A and B pillars are solid and I think the cowl and rear hatch area are solid.

_________________
Too much week, not enough weekend.

OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216


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PostPosted: December 5, 2012, 2:37 pm 
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TooBusy wrote:
There's so much cancer in this car I'm not sure I'd still call it a TE50.
floor pans, front and rear rockers, rear quarters are all toast. The suspension mounts, A and B pillars are solid and I think the cowl and rear hatch area are solid.


Use the driveline sure but please don't trash the rest, old Jap cars are becoming collectables, the TE50 is a rarer Toyota model and there's enough there for someone to do something with it.

TooBusy wrote:
Pertronix kit or similar is high on the to do list.


Or just grab the proper Toyota electronic dizzy out of a later 2T/12T/2TG/3T/13T - 2 wires and you're away. Ask at one of the Toyota forums (Toyota Nation etc) if anyone has one while your there offering your TE50 for resto :wink:


Last edited by cheapracer on December 5, 2012, 2:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: December 5, 2012, 2:47 pm 
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Thanks for the feedback. I'll pull what I need and offer the rest for sale to someone at scrap value or thereabouts. I like seeing things saved. Kind of why I pulled a rusty hulk of a Sprite out of a barn several years ago.

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Too much week, not enough weekend.

OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216


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