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PostPosted: December 14, 2009, 3:16 pm 
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Or if you want the real web address you can always go to the View menu and click on Source and wade through the code until you find the correct web address. It helps to use the Find (or search or whatever; ctrl-F) and type in jpg. Then when you find the picture just add to the front of it the rest of the websites address if its missing (ie. http://www.XYZ.com/...)

Or grab a link to the page with the photo on it, then clean out your temperary internet files, then open up only that link. Then just peruse through the temp internet files for the picture (turning on thumbnails helps too)

Sorry for the nerd info. Nice mounts! :D


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PostPosted: December 14, 2009, 4:01 pm 
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Thanks.

Just type in the part number after "A" and before ".jpg" and the page with the pic will be displayed:

http://deaproducts.com/images/products/A____.jpg

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PostPosted: December 19, 2010, 9:44 pm 
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Big thanks to Miatav8 for the small, cheap and strong mount solution--I'm always for using something common to other builders' projects. Autozone had 'em in stock. I'll be working up brackets for them in the next week or so, hopefully. :cheers:

Although, I just saw your follow-up post on a different thread saying they're $3 on RockAuto. Ahh well--a $10 instant gratification fee is reasonable. :lol:

-Matt "Thinking about Newton's third law right about now" Rogers


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PostPosted: December 19, 2010, 11:22 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F

If you want to look em up under something different and maybe cheaper they are identicle to the 1978 Dodge D100 with the slant six 225 engine. I run these in a race car but had a chain on both sides with a little slack just in case they broke loose. They do break loose too. I doubt they will be any cheaper than what you have thought. I used to have a 1978 Mustang 2 and I would ask for pinto parts at the supply house. Sometimes the parts would be cheaper by a couple dollars. Cross refrencing does sometimes pay off.


Ooops, Just went to advance auto parts Part number 2265 $4.99 each. Dats perty darn cheap fer an engine mount.

Mark.


Last edited by Gyrofli on December 19, 2010, 11:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: December 19, 2010, 11:30 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F

Summit racing sells them too. Or just type in 2266 in the summit search. Fits mopar. Can't beat the Advance autoparts price though.


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PostPosted: December 20, 2010, 8:03 pm 
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Thanks Matt.

Gyrofli,
I picked the 2469 reccomend based in part on the safety tabs but I know there are a handfull of similar styles for Dodge applications.

Are you saying you install a chain on both sides of the engine?

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PostPosted: December 21, 2010, 2:40 am 
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Alright, time for some possibly-tangential threadjacking:

When placing these Dodge truck mounts, what orientation is best?

-It looks like to me, one would want the rubber in compression during acceleration. That would mean putting the upward-facing engine stud forward of the downward-facing chassis stud. Is this major load case scenario assumption correct?

What is recommended for bracing around the mount's location?
-A short "fence" to stop it from rotating? How many sides?

Is it better to place these mounts farther outboard, or closer to the engine?
-My possibly-naive reasoning says farther outboard, which would reduce the reaction force from the engine's torque by providing a longer lever arm. The downside comes with the potential packaging issues and engine extraction complications.

Thanks for y'alls' inputs!


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PostPosted: December 21, 2010, 1:13 pm 
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i use the 2469 on jeeps, its a good, easy to fit small mount. (i had to check and verify the part # on old receipts before i could say that for sure. ..) i run the bolts vertical rather than "leading/trailing" and use 2 pieces of 1/2" plate to make motor side brackets, can't locate any pics but. .. the piece bolted to the block gets an overlarge hole to clear the fixing nut, the other piece gets drilled for 1)the mounting stud and 2)the locating pin (don't forget the locating pin :oops: ). the assembly doesn't quite clear the head of the stud, which hasn't been a problem with american v8's so far, but a moment or two with a grinder will resolve that should it present as a problem. after i assemble the drivetrain and measure, and measure, and measure, and measure, bounce the frame a few times then measure again i stick the two pieces together once everything seems straight.
ok, so it's redneck engineering, it works. .. i don't worry about an extra pound or so of metal on a jeep plus i am apparently NEVER out of scrap 1/2" plate, it seems to grow like the proverbial weed.

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PostPosted: December 21, 2010, 7:18 pm 
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Clearance issues notwithstanding;

1 x 2 tube makes a nice base with a hole drilled for the locating pin.

Rotation will pivot about the other mount, so vertical studs will allow the safety tabs to function but most mounts in oem applications are slanted about 45 degrees.

I would not offset the mounts longitudinally more than the mounting bosses on the engine block.

For a chassis base, 1/8" strip used to make a 3 sided channel works well. It is not that different from a miata mount.

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PostPosted: December 24, 2010, 3:57 am 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Rotation will pivot about the other mount, so vertical studs will allow the safety tabs to function but most mounts in oem applications are slanted about 45 degrees.

I would not offset the mounts longitudinally more than the mounting bosses on the engine block.
Thanks for the reply. A few questions about your answers for clarification:

Referencing the attached drawing, and assume left motor mount: If I have y'all right, The Blue arrow is pointing up (+Z) and the Red arrow is facing inwards (+Y) which would make the green arrow facing forwards (-X). Is this correct, or is there another preferred orthogonal orientation? What would it get me to slant the motor mounts in towards the engine?

Also: the mounts don't really have a clear "locating pin", unless you're talking about the 1/2" stud. Or perhaps that dimple in the flat plate section. Do I add a locating pin? Do I add something to the base for the mount to butt up against?

I'll place the mounts along longitudinally between the engine's mounting bosses. How about lateral position? Should they be more inboard (closer to the engine in Y), or outboard, (farther from the engine)?

Thanks for the help,

-Matt


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PostPosted: December 24, 2010, 9:35 am 
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The dimple is the locating pin. When the nut is tight, it will prevent rotation.
The green arrow should opposite the red arrow.

How far away from the engine is a clearance issue. Typically, the mount is halfway between the frame and engine block. The further it is from the block, the stronger it will be in resisting engine torque. I believe you stated this in an earlier post.

On my 4.3 miata, due to header clearance issues, I placed the mounts as close to the block as possible and not in the best config to make use of the safety tabs. FYI, nasty flux core welding wasn't left that way.

See first page for more info on my mount in cardboard:
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=7972&p=106391


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PostPosted: December 24, 2010, 2:31 pm 
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here's how i set them up, looks like the same way said different :D (does that mean i got something right?!??)
blue line (stud) perpendicular to the block surface creating a concave for the engine to "fall" into if the rubber fails (on a v block, on an inline i would recommend creating such an angle with the block side bracket). the green line aligned with direction of travel, the red line points up (at the aforementioned angle). only had one (rubber) failure so far and you could feel the bounce and hear the clank but it came back from gualala just fine.

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PostPosted: June 6, 2016, 8:53 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Okay, drag across the item to turn it blue, control + C, open MS Word or similar, right click to paste.

Thanks for the info.

The 2235 mount is commonly used on the miata ford 5.0L conversions. It is also a dodge truck application.
The 2266 mount is the thinnest mount I have found. I don't know the application.

I just wanted to follow up with the thin 2266 mounts and let you guys know I had one fail on my car. Not sure what to do moving forward I think I will just replace it with the same part and keep a spare.
Mine is a rather extreme case, I have the thinnest mounts and my car is an Autocross car with huge race tires. The car usually pulls upto 1.65G on concrete, so more than anything you will see in street driving but it failed all the same.

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PostPosted: June 7, 2016, 6:11 pm 
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Looking at your mount, I see the drivers side being loaded in tension with little shear.

Instead of changing the angle which would be a hassle to redo, I'd limit travel.

Use a strap off the top above the alloy bracket and under the nut to hang over the end of the mount with the other end attached to the base.

For something cleaner, fit a tab above the mount with an interlock to a bracket welded on the base.

Would you like a pic?

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PostPosted: June 7, 2016, 7:39 pm 
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Yes, I went ahead and ordered 2 of the mounts as a replacement and a spare. I would love to add some type of safety in there so if it goes again the engine does not start rocking. If you have a pic or something that would be great.


I noticed today that it has put a tear in the exhaust from the rocking, it is an easy fix with a welder though so not the end of the world. I'll post a video of the run with the faulty engine.

Edit heres the video https://youtu.be/6R9eVCeE6XU

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