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Been away a lot for work, so progress has been sporadic. I got the juts cut at the base to bump the compression and reduce deck height. was aiming for 0.050" and 9.5:1, got about 0.038" and 10.2:1. Decision was made to roll with it.
The engine went together pretty smoothly, but at one point i forgot a piston circlip, whoops. I had to pull that jug to fix it, but the sealant was still tacky so I put some more and rolled out. The tins fit the more stock width engine way better, but I did have to trim one just a little.



Complete engine ready to be stabbed!



My god dont forget this!

So being a real smart guy, when pulling it the bolts for the mounts were a royal PITA to back up with a wrench, so I tack welded them in. The engine mount has to be clearanced to fit the now fixed in space bolts.



Nothing an cutoff wheel and a dremel cant do.

I got it all back together and started it. The power connections have always been crap, and it was having trouble spinning it over. Yesterday on the way home I also had an epiphany; i never kicked the clutch to center things up. So I loosened all the bolts, kicked the clutch and now it has plenty of ommph. At some point I stripped the hole in the block for the starter too so I had to back it up with a thin nut and through bolt.

Today I got it running better, starting by itself, and the timing set. The carbs need to be rebalanced and the idle tuned, but it runs, revs free, and sounds MEAN. No pinging yet either free revving it hard.

I was hoping to be driving today, but the axles are still giving me hell. the 100mm cv's I got are too thick for the 914 axle. They are EMPI high strength high flex units. (E98-5084-B) They are too thick to put the circlip on. So I need regular units if they are thinner, or maybe a different axle shaft? Suggestions welcome. Good news is the aero CV boots clears the shock even at full droop, something even the 914 setup did not do.

So, I'm very close. Just need to get the axle problem solved for good and I'll be driving again. I could put the old setup in, but seems kinda pointless to undo what I've done so far.

-Brad

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If it has tits or tires it will cost you money.

There is a spring behind the flange. See the following link on how to make a tool to compress the spring for installation of the clip.

http://www.brokevw.com/020flange.html

I'm glad you noticed the fuel line rubbing. Did you reroute it or what?

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Re-routed the fuel line. The 901 trans does not have spring loaded flanges, but I have that tool from my mk1 vw days

I'm talking about the actual axle and cv joint.

_________________
If it has tits or tires it will cost you money.

Maybe those are bug axles and not Porsche axles:

http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... w=previous

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

I measured my set at 20-5/16", aparently they are 'supposed' to be 20.25, probably measurement error by me. But 16 anything will leave WAY too much daylight in there

Found this stuff since i posted:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=105728
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=91963
http://www.swayaway.com/OffRoadRacing.php

for 265 bucks we may have a winner.... new (and not 40 year old used) axle shafts.... I welcome opinions!

_________________
If it has tits or tires it will cost you money.

Axles found to correct the issue, ordered.

Soon...very soon.

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If it has tits or tires it will cost you money.

The heavy duty empi cv must be the 100mm cv used by bmw. They are 39.5mm thick versus 34.2mm.

See paragraph titled, "The source of our joints":

http://www.rorty-design.com/content/CV_joints.htm

We need a video of it in action, or at least hear it running.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

That is fantastic info! Thanks for the link. The heavy duty EMPI unit is 34mm wide however; they advertise that it uses chromoly cages and they use bigger balls ( )

_________________
If it has tits or tires it will cost you money.

So I got my new axles.



shinny. I went to put them together and the place sent me load washers for freaking 90mm cv's. In the pounding i messed up some hardware. and they didnt send me enough hardware. I am miffed. I used standard lock washers for now and thank god driving vw's for years yielded just enough bolts to make this happen. Even if they were the newer torque to yield kind.



Took way too long and lots of cursing and hammering later but they are in. I should have run a tap through the holes first.

So.... first drive. Fired right up, shifter was aligned, time to do this. It still needs tuning/balancing but it is WAY stronger. Face melting stronger. After a few spins around the block I parked it to check for bolts/leaks/etc. And to set up the display to read the head temp sensor.

I then refired it and it started pinging on one cylinder REALLY bad, like i could not even touch the throttle.

Today i took it for a spin to see if it still did it, and it seems better, but still a light ping at high rpm. I'll back the timing off a bit. Its really quick now!

Went to the Ludachris concert last night, fo free. Worked hard and played hard.

_________________
If it has tits or tires it will cost you money.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XPGSLbXREe0

ordering the jet kit and colder plugs tomorrow....

_________________
If it has tits or tires it will cost you money.

And maybe a new camera mount??? I thought there had been a terrible crash or perhaps an earthquake there at the end...

Other'n that, GREAT VIDEO! The Beast Lives! Very cool! Congrats!


JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

Guys i need some help, I'm drawing a blank on how to make a throttle stop. I have significant manufacturing capability, and would like a no welding on frame solution. Any ideas would help.





Thanks,
-Brad

_________________
If it has tits or tires it will cost you money.

How about a 1/4" dia roll pin thu the center shaft and a clearance slot in the mount. This would limit the travel.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Got alot done today. First up, the koso temp sensor died from what i expect were out of its range. So i found another thermistor that had the same curve (i measured using the one I still had) that had a higher max temp. I took this guy (0.80 each at digikey, 6141019-nd) and stuck in in a drilled out Porsche head temp sensor and jb welded it in there. FYI, jb weld is a electrical insulator, and reasonably good thermal conductor.



Result is that this thing is near impossible to install. I managed by modding a 1/2 wrench.

Next was the throttle stop solution and new, hopefully stiffer, throttle pedal.




Also readjusted the action and stuff.

Put in my NGK's that are a few ranges colder than the ones that were in there.

Next I changed jets and air jets. went to 145 and 190 from 135 and 175.

Drove the car, still seems a little lean in the midrange, (lots of poping and what not off throttle, BUT less of it than before) but it seems WAY happier, and more power from the but dyno. Now its very cool out today (70) but no pinging, head temps were lower (never saw past 300) so these are all good things. I know that I'll have to stay on top of the tuning with this thing.

About ready to put the nose back on and declare it 'done'. For now at least.

-Brad

_________________
If it has tits or tires it will cost you money.

forgot to post here:
so the car has been being a total bitch. Leaks, running too hot, etc. I tried a 300 dollar distributor that didn't fit to run a little vacuum advance under part load. Next I was going to megasquirt it for ignition only. I got it to run off this setup (for ~10 seconds at a time), but something happened and fried the MS.

So, call was made to yank the lump and install headgaskets, lowering compression to sane levels. I also installed these flaps that were left out of the original build ( ) that direct some air over the oil cooler; up to that point all it was just a heatsink.

Saturday was the day, and it was pulled, wrenches turned on it, and reinstalled before nightfall. And started, on the first keyturn I might add. I need to fiddle with the carbs, fix an smallish exhaust leak, and set the timing. Then of course drive it under load to see if it has fixed the overheating issue.

Then later on the a/c message board:
ok. So how sure are we that the FI spot reads 50-100F lower than the spark plug? The temps seem way better; it creeps up to the high 350's under load at highway speeds and is very stable, even driving it hard. the highest I saw was 375 and that was doing a pull from low rpm in 5th up to about 80. Not pinging. Head temp responds to increased load in 2-3 SECONDS; I cant imagine under the plug would be much, if any, faster. Dip stick was not scorching hot to the touch; you could hold onto it. I put about 50 miles on it with no drama, it didn't melt, and it generally acted right. I am attempting to make a spark plug thermistor to confirm my theory that the FI hole is a-ok to use as a heat temp location.

I think the biggest thing was that the temps were very stable once warm; unlike before it was not shooting up under load nor crashing down once the load was removed. It stayed between 300and 360 for the most part once warm, all the way up to 70. FYI it was 90 deg out yesterday.

Also got my first ticket/cop harassment.

_________________
If it has tits or tires it will cost you money.