Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
I doubt your start button needs a separate relay to the starter. Most starters have a relay built in. The wire to the starter relay needs to be no thicker than 16ga.
There should be no fuses between the battery + and the starter heavy lug connection. Starters typically pull up to 200 amps initially so the 40 amp fuse will blow the first time you engage it. Use the starter heavy lug for a power distribution point.
Don't know what a "power distribution constant" is.
Most ecms, ecus, etc apply or receive a ground from or to relays, not + but it looks like you corrected that
Don't know what model and year you are basing this on.
Don't forget a ground strap to the chassis.
I think most are not running clutch switches to prevent starter engagement in gear.
There is usually two methods to engage the fuel pump.
It is nice to have a toggle to control the cooling fan relay.
Appears you are using toggles to control acc, run/on, and a start momentary. Many oem ignition switches isolate most of the run/on circuits to reduce the voltage drop to critical bits that are required to get it started. The symptoms are the battery is a little low and it won't fire but the starter is engaging fine. May not be a big deal for you.
Yeah looking at the back of the switch now, it has some pretty big contacts so i may eliminate the relay
Right now the stock starter wire is 12awg so i bumped it up to 10ga since it is traveling further. Alt to starter is 10awg.
If you look at the first post you will see an 80a and 50a just before the starter. I just followed that.
Power distribution constant is power at all times vs controlled by the acc switch.
This is all from a 92-95 civic but that are almost all the same from 92-2000.
You mean they do use clutch switches to prevent starter engagement?
Race cars have two methods to start the fuel pump? How so?
A switch to override the ecu and active the fan?