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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: July 11, 2008, 3:39 pm 
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The 99 is electric. You'd just need wires, theres no "cable". You want a speedometer that understands electric pulses (like a tach). I havent looked for such a beast as I am using my miata's gauges. At least for speedo and tach. I dont even have a hole for the odometer


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PostPosted: July 11, 2008, 4:45 pm 
Yes, the 99 sender plugs straight into the transmission. Most electronic speedos should be able to deal with it, although you'll have to find one that's programmable. I would expect the Autometer to do just fine.

Alternately, I have the rally computer on my race car hooked to an ABS sensor on the front wheel. The speedometer doesn't care, you just need to tell it X pulses equals Y distance.

There's no waiting list for salvage parts, your best bet is to ping salvage@flyinmiata.com in a couple of weeks. It's not a high-demand part.


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PostPosted: October 10, 2008, 1:39 pm 
Anyone know a place I could get the metal pins that go in the ecu connectors? I wanted to lopp off 5 feet from my ECU harness and dont want to use butt connectors. I would rather just cut and crimp new ends on and reinstall it in the clip.


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PostPosted: October 10, 2008, 2:12 pm 
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I would not use butt connectors either. Try the dealer for the pins, or cut, splice, and solder the other end.


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PostPosted: September 24, 2009, 1:37 am 
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Out of the donor, my '93 Miata harness weighed 36 pounds.

As installed in the Locost, it is 10.5 pounds: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=2741&p=75472#p75472

FWIW,
-dave

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PostPosted: November 25, 2009, 11:21 pm 
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IF you can get OEM pins, the reliability of the joint is highly dependent on the use of a factory-style crimping tool. Tools are designed for the crimp connector. Sometimes the tool will be different dependant on the size of the wire. The use of common hardware store or radio shack crimpers are not reliable.

Common insulated butt joints are also not real reliable in an auto application, especially once you get outside the protected environment of the inside of a sedan.

I have just about finished the wiring mods on my RX-7 powered Locost and all the wires were shortened by cutting, barrel twisting, soldering and heatshrinking. Some of the heavier wires were overlapped and crimped using the crimo-end of a ring lug with out the ring. I removed the insulator, ran the wire ends parallel to each other, crimped then soldered and heatshrinked. Stagger any joints about 1" and the wire bundle won''t get too large.

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PostPosted: September 25, 2010, 1:28 am 
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Here's a link to motoiq.com's Miatabusa Project, part 4.2: link

I posted this because while we talk about the modifications needed, I haven't seen many different techniques demonstrated for harness design. The technique Dave Coleman uses to plan the modified wiring harness, lay it out and then route the wires is pretty slick. He creates a model of the desired harness using thin rope, and then anchors that to large section of pegboard. From there he cuts the relevant wire runs to size and adds connectors. It looks like a very slick way to reduce the pain of rebuilding a harness.

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PostPosted: September 25, 2010, 2:15 am 
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erioshi wrote:
The technique Dave Coleman uses to plan the modified wiring harness, lay it out and then route the wires is pretty slick. He creates a model of the desired harness using thin rope, and then anchors that to large section of pegboard. From there he cuts the relevant wire runs to size and adds connectors. It looks like a very slick way to reduce the pain of rebuilding a harness.

So simple it's brilliant. I wish I had come across (or had) that idea a few months ago when I was rewiring my Mazda 3!

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PostPosted: August 13, 2011, 8:28 pm 
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Joined: February 8, 2007, 4:35 pm
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Location: Atlanta Ga
Six Years after completion I am planning to tackle the wiring. Admitted that two of those years have been in storage, but the point is that if you don't want to mess with wiring you don't have to. The car runs fine with stock wiring too, and while not pretty, there is plenty of room to wrap the loom in front and under the dash.

Now with turbocharger heat, several leaks and racetrack abuse I am planning to remove the whole miata harness with stock ECU Emanage Ultimate.
I like to point out that the reason for this chance is frustration with brittle and confusing stock harness with all modifications happened twithin these years. Car is fine, but it has several shortcuts and replaced wires with external fuses as one can imagine. the wiring loom makes nice crakcling sound every time it is touched.

hrk

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PostPosted: September 25, 2011, 2:43 pm 
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Matt: "Dear Mazda-Sensei, why do you have an in-line connector going another point on the same harness?"
Mazda: "Because it isn't the same harness, young wiring grasshopper. You must untangle more!"

Apparently there are three harnesses in a 1993 Miata: Main, Instrument Cluster and Rear. I had the Rear to tangled up that it looked like part of the Main. Then the wiring lengths didn't make sense!


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PostPosted: September 11, 2017, 1:34 pm 
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Joined: August 27, 2017, 6:20 pm
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If you are looking to shorten your stock harness or build a new one with the stock harness or Megasquirt PNP, I found what I believe is the correct wire terminals. You can also get the female connector housings in case yours is broken. I haven't actually tried these, but you can compare your stuff to the drawings with calipers. It looks like you can get the terminals individually from Digikey without a minimum order.

.070" terminals https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/173631-1/A122177CT-ND/5418200?WT.srch=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6NjNBRDKARIsAFn3NMp4oJKO8A37-hYYbOGFaQiSpcpcyUEehrrQ-J8TgUMgrWizJe1fS-UaAst0EALw_wcB
Image

.040" terminals https://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=238118864&uq=636407295633041788
Image

Now, I'm not at my shop right now (evacuated to Rome GA from Orlando because hurricane Irma) I would check the drawing against the stock one to make sure it would work, but I believe this is a good start.

You'll also need a crimper like this
https://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewItemBundle.asp?idProduct=34856
Image


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