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Hello group,
I am hoping for a simple fix, maybe you can help. I just swapped out the few tank in my car. The new tank came with its own fuel sender. Now the gauge reads at 1/2 when it is full. The gauge operates from 240-33 ohm range. Can I add a resistor to get it to read correctly? If so, what size resistor?
Thanks JEB

_________________
● Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines. ~ Enzo Ferrari
● I have a dream: My car has a new type of engine: a half-turbine half-reciprocated engine. I invented it! ~ Dr. Felix Wankel
● It has occurred to me, amateurs built the ark and professionals built the titanic.

JEB, unfortunately, no. You can do add a resistor to make it read correct at one level but it won't read correct over the full range. You are left with replacing the sending unit to match the gauge, replacing the gauge with one that matched the sender, buying a converter ( $80-125), or simply making a mental note of the calibration.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Unfortunately, no; there are probably about a dozen "standard" values when it comes to fuel sensors. Probably the cheapest solution is to get another sender or gauge to match. Well, the cheapest solution is to just mentally multiply or divide the gauge reading to know what it really is, if you don't mind.

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Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://www.midlana.com/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains, http://www.kimini.com/book_info/

Maybe...

You might be able to do a series/parallel set of resistors to get the end points to at least coincide.
The gage wants 240 full and 33 empty?
What is the range on the new sender?

(edit) I took a quick look, and Chuck's right, there isn't a simple method to add resistors, even the series/parallel can only get one end of the range corrected.

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Planning a Duratec powered, Miata suspended 442

DC Voltage Doubler Circuit:

https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/bl ... rcuit.html

Simple circuit:

http://www.instructables.com/id/DC-DC-v ... e-circuit/

For a $-buck, this looks like it has potential:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/MT3608- ... lsrc=aw.ds

Trog the problem with your proposal is that the traditional fuel gauge works on a current bridge using the matched parameters between the windings in the meter and the resitance of the sender, not applied voltage or simple resistance divider. I suppose a circuit could be designed using a JFET. but that is not a simple task for someone not schooled in electronics.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Thanks guys,
Your thoughtful feed back is appreciated. And, Chuck, thanks for explaining how it works. The 89 cent DC things looks interesting too.

I think I can look at how close to E that I am and go from there.

All the best
JEB

_________________
● Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines. ~ Enzo Ferrari
● I have a dream: My car has a new type of engine: a half-turbine half-reciprocated engine. I invented it! ~ Dr. Felix Wankel
● It has occurred to me, amateurs built the ark and professionals built the titanic.

Interesting...I wonder if a simple change in the gauge scaling resister would solve the range issue?

I’ve had problems with my fuel gage also, and it’s fully programmable. It will work with about 8 different senders. I honestly don’t get it.

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Steve

My build : viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17160

Steve, tell us your gauge make and model (so I can look up the instructions), and the sensor empty and full resistances. Some gauges that I have seen will even allow a custom sender program. Maybe I can help.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE