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 Post subject: Wiring help
PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 9:03 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 3:32 pm
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Location: N. Versailles, PA 15137
Hi Guys,
Do we have anybody on the forum that could tell me (if I attach a wiring diagram and further description) for rear lighting/turn signals that it probably would work? I'm using an electronic turn signal activator in conjunction with H/F trailer lights so I'm combining already made circuts with a purchased loam. Andrew, is that up your alley? As you know, PJ & I (Oh, can't forget Nathan, the little guy) were pretty darn impressed with your car in Oakland.
Thanks,
Don


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 Post subject: Re: Wiring help
PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 9:59 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2011 9:50 pm
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post the diagrams!


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 Post subject: Re: Wiring help
PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 8:08 am 
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Always Moore!
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The little guy looked like he was ready for a drive. ;) Do you guys think you'll have yours running for spring?

Toss up a diagram. I don't see why they wouldn't work. I don't recall if you have fiberglass rear fenders or not - just keep in mind the HF lights ground through the stud so you may need to run a strap or two.

I would think a DPDT switch, flasher module, and relay would be the only thing you'd need to run them but I could be wrong. I guess it also depends on what donor parts you have. I'm going from memory here since I haven't played with wiring on the HF trailer for a long time but I seem to recall one wire being for the brake light (the bright bulb) and the other being for the marker/turn signal.

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 Post subject: Re: Wiring help
PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 9:01 am 
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Location: West Chicago,IL
Typically trailer light tailights have a marker/running filament. The stop filament does double duty as the turn signal. The easiest way to adapt trailer lights to a vehicle that has individual running, stop and turn bulbs, is to purchase a trailer light adapter. They can be found for ~ 10 bucks from your local K- or Wal- Marts, car parts store, camper/RV store or eBay. Input the 4 running, stop, Left and Right turn signal wires; and it outputs the 3 running light, left/stop, and right/stop wires.

Don, put up your wiring diagrams so we can steer you in the wrong direction :shock: I mean right direction :cheers:

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“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

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 Post subject: Re: Wiring help
PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 10:35 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 3:32 pm
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Location: N. Versailles, PA 15137
Ok guys, I think I actually have it. The turn signal module is an electronic "switch" which is turned on to a predetermined time period when one of the 12V momentary on rocker switches is pushed for the right or left side signal. Depress both R & L to activate/deactivate hazard mode. 12V power TO switch wires not shown on diagram. Upper right shows H/F trailer connection running back to their rectangular LED trailer lights. Notice 4 wires in and 5 wires out. Also, lower right, I have LED lights mounted on the horizontal part of the roll bar in an effort to prevent the 3 ton SUVs from driving over the rather low Locost. Please feel free to ask any questions I have not explained adequately. Sorry, diagram should have been rotated a quarter turn. Dah!
Thanks guys,
Don


Attachments:
Locost rear wiring 001 - Copy.jpg
Locost rear wiring 001 - Copy.jpg [ 40.7 KiB | Viewed 1963 times ]
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 Post subject: Re: Wiring help
PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 8:44 am 
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What are you calling a turn signal module?
Are you referring to the control stalk?

You need a flasher, which is a round can with two spade terminals. The flasher is upstream of the switch to select left or right turns with a power feed just for turning.

There are electronic flashers that do the same thing. These are often referred to as modules. If you have only leds, an electronic flasher is required; otherwise the old type would flash very quickly with leds.

Stopping does not go through the flasher module.

With a single wire for stopping and turning per side, two separate led bars acting as a single third brake light would be necessary. They would also act as secondary turn signal indicators.

Don't forget the reflectors if there is no prismatic material in the lights.

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 Post subject: Re: Wiring help
PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 11:20 pm 
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Location: N. Versailles, PA 15137
Miata,
I am using the same device that solder_guy posted near the bottom of the forum in 2009. It does not need, nor does it use a flasher. The "module" flashes the turn signals electronically for a period of 7 - 75 seconds depending on how long you depress the L or R momentarily on power switch(s) 1 - 4 seconds (replaces the turn signal stalk - will not work with a stalk) to the module. If you look more carefully, the brake pick-up is AFTER the module. The H/F lights are DOT approved so I believe they will meet all state regs.
Prismatic material already included I would guess. As the lights are shown in my diagram, which I copied from H/F installation instructions diagram, each has two (2) power wires and the white ground wire. Hope these additional comments help to clarify the diagram so someone can tell me NO SMOKE will come-out-your wires, man.
And, of course, that the system will work as depicted. Solder-guy, come join the party, please.
Don


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 Post subject: Re: Wiring help
PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 11:51 pm 
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Don. A mfgr's name and part number might help. There will be a problem with your setup, the junction of the brakelight switch with the turn signals. Even if you don't blow the electronic circuit from backfeeding, you will have no turn signal function when you are braking or sitting at a light stopped. Not only that, when you turn on the left turn signal, the right side will work too and vice versa. Brake lights will also activate front turn signals and side markers. This is due to your conncetion of the brake and turn signal wiring.

If you still want to use the turn signal module, you will have to add the 3 wire to 2 wire converter as I mentioned earlier, similar to this one:

Attachment:
adapter.jpg
adapter.jpg [ 11.56 KiB | Viewed 1879 times ]
http://www.amazon.com/Curt-Manufacturing-58240-Light-Converter/dp/B001EP0GI6/ref=sr_1_34?ie=UTF8&qid=1324179679&sr=8-34

The output from your turn signal controller would feed the turn signal inputs to this. The brake light switch would also feed the input side of this. Your rear lights (only) would be wired to the output side of this. Running (parking) lights would be wired as you have shown. Hope this makes sense. If you need specific wiring diagrams just ask. Still would like the mfgr's name and model number you have.

(added) Side markers and front turn lights would be wired from between the modules.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Check out my rotary build log: click here


Last edited by rx7locost on Sun Dec 18, 2011 9:57 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Wiring help
PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 8:03 am 
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[quote="N. Versailles Cobra"]
"It does not need, nor does it use a flasher. The "module" flashes".

Don't get hung up on nomenclature. It is what it does.

"If you look more carefully, the brake pick-up is AFTER the module."

Thanks for the tip about what I should do, but I was talking about flashers, not your drawing.

"The H/F lights are DOT approved so I believe they will meet all state regs."

Possible but unlikely. The standard for auto tail lights on small vehicles is SAE J585. Reflectors are a separate requirement and standard (J594), and are not required to be part of the light assembly. Trailer tail light fixtures frequently do not have ANY prismatic material. A tail light can meet the SAE J585 standard AND have reflectors in the lens, but still not meet SAE J594.

"Solder-guy, come join the party, please."

I've emailed Rob for you. :D Good luck.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Om3C1Ep ... D3E18BB447


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 Post subject: Re: Wiring help
PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 10:33 am 
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Posts: 35
The module is the Self-Canceling Turn Signal Module Part Number: 01501 by www.signaldynamics.com/

http://signaldynamics.com/index.php?pag ... 77#reviews

You do need the above mentioned 3 wire to 2 wire converter to integrate the turn, stop, tail signals to work with simpler trailer lights.

Rob


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 Post subject: Re: Wiring help
PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 12:45 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 3:32 pm
Posts: 210
Location: N. Versailles, PA 15137
Thanks Chuck & Bob,
That's exactly the kind of useful help I need from guys that do understand what's on the wiring diagram. It's late, but will study your very good suggestions tomorrow and I may have more questions, but just a quick read seems like you have a handle on the problem. Electrons with a smile!!! Good.
Don


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 Post subject: Re: Wiring help
PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 6:31 pm 
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Thank you so much! This is exactly why I do it. Helping great individuals such as yourself is its own reward. You might want to spell my name right next time though! :wink:

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Om3C1Ep ... D3E18BB447


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 Post subject: Re: Wiring help
PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 9:29 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 3:32 pm
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Location: N. Versailles, PA 15137
Andrew. Yea, glass fenders so the white H/F supplied ground wire at each fender as shown in the diagram will be a good thing. Hope to be running with 190 HP T'bird power this Summer.
Chuck. Solder_guy hit it exactly. Turn signal module that I have is signal dynamics model # 01501. The trailer lights are H/F #94137 with 18 LED's each. Since I haven't had them powered up yet, I would think "some number" of the LED's are wired to function as the rear running lights (one brown wire into the connector and the brown L side & odd brown R side color wires out to the tail light assys.) and light more LED's to make it brighter to function as the "brake light" using the green wire to the R assy. and the yellow wire to the L assy., as shown on my diagram??? That's why I thought the H/F connector could perhaps function in the same manner as the 3-2 wire #58240 Curt converter you indicated that is needed.
By the way. If I'm understanding your post, I need two (2) of the #58240's?? Right? One for each side. When you have time, would you please post a workable modification to my wiring diagram that I will use to actually wire the circuit (and try it out) sometime after the Holiday.
I need to finish my other 4 pieces of tranny tunnel sheet metal, so no hurry on that.
As Andrew would attest, if he wasn't a gentlemen. I'm old & slow. Heh, heh.
Thanks guys. Have a Merry Christmas.
Don


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 Post subject: Re: Wiring help
PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 11:40 pm 
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Location: West Chicago,IL
Don, you only need one 3 to 2 wire adapter. They don't have to be from Amazon, Any trailer shop, or even Walmart should have them. You don't need the ones that need to be powered. Just the 5 wire units will do. Of course, you can get it from Amazon if you want.
Here is a quick wiring diagram. The trailer connector is not required so the grounds at the connector do not need the be wired. Sorry about the size.


Attachments:
schematic003.jpg
schematic003.jpg [ 376.19 KiB | Viewed 1727 times ]

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Check out my rotary build log: click here
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 Post subject: Re: Wiring help
PostPosted: Sat Dec 24, 2011 10:02 am 
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I just looked over the SDC website. It would appear that they have a different module that MAY be an all-in-one version of my above schematic. That would eliminate the need for a separate 3 into 2 converter. This P/N is SDC 01007. I say this with about a 75% confidence level. It is described similarly but adds the circuitry to combine the brakelight function to the turn signals. The module is originally designed for motorcycle use so they would still have a standalone brakelight. If you run a Locost with 3rd brakelight (highly recommended) treat that as the equivalent of a motorcycle "brakelight" and the trailer brakelights as the "turn signals". Now that I think about it, I will raise my confidence level to 95%.

So if you are thinking about purchasing one of these and want the combined brake/turn signal function, this 01007 module SHOULD work. However, I still prefer separate turnsignal and brake lights.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Check out my rotary build log: click here


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