Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Use an oem harness and modify the lengths. In your case, to minimize confusion, use a 93 or older harness.
There are step by step instructions on how to properly splice wiring on this site.
Do not cut and splice anything before mounting the parts, routing the old harness and new wiring, and determining how the harness will be supported and protected every 6 inches. Clothes line clips work well to hold wiring in place temporarily. Leave slack in the harness at the ends where equipment connects, especially the engine. Buy bags online of 100 or more 4 and 6 inch black zip ties. Black better resists UV light. Ditto on the use of a spool of multi-wire, multi-color trailer wiring. The colors are not necessary, but will help to keep from splicing into the wrong wire. Small zips can be used to secure a connector where the lock tabs have broken off, which is common on older harnesses.
"ring out" the entire harness before connecting a battery. Sears has cheap meters that have a setting where the unit beeps (ohms/continuity setting) when the leads are touched together. Buy some aligator clips from Radio Shack and make a mini-jumper cable to extend a meter lead the length of the car, in order to be able to test the longest wire in the harness for continuity.
Connect all the grounds in the original harness.
The engine/transmission needs a ground strap to the chassis. You may use a standard lawn and garden cable. Without the strap, the engine will attempt to ground itself through the throttle cable.
Thanks for all those tips. That's the kind of info I need.