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For my build I took no chances in screwing up the wiring, so the resultant extra length of Miata wiring harness wires are bundled into a box under the scuttle. I now want to make room for relocating the battery under the scuttle. What is the safest way of shortening these wires?

Cut, splice, solder, wrap in heat-shrink?

Thanks

That's what I did with mine. It took quite a while. I also removed unnecessary wiring, which did not seem worth the effort. I also only confused two black wires.

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The Lethal Locost
The Lethal Locost 2 - Even More Lethalerer

X2

I also eliminated the un-necessary connectors. Kept the necessary ones.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Yup, solder is a must. Heat Shrink is the most reliable isolator for the joint. It's a chore! I removed two full paper boxes of wiring from my miata harness. The bulk came from the excess stuff like power windows/retractable headlights etc.

- A tip for you: Don't buy your heat shrink tubing local. Go online to Digikey or somewhere like that. It's 10x the price if you buy from radio shack / lowes etc. I even tried a local electrical supply co. but they were very expensive too. Buy a couple different diameters since you'll be splicing multiple gauges.

I found the hardest part was dealing with splices that went to different places. Cutting 3 feet out of a single wire is easy. It's killer when that wire goes 10 inches then splices off to a relay, then goes 10 more inches and splices off to a switch, then goes 10 more inches and splices off in a 4-way that goes to yet 4- more places!

The only real key is to take your time and only ever cut one wire at a time.

I think I got $20 back from the copper I recycled. - It's the best of both worlds, lighter car and heavier wallet!

(OH, a good factory wiring diagram is an absolute must!) I got one from someone here online. I know i have a hardcopy covered in solder slag and burger grease. I'll see if I can drum up the electronic copy if you need one.

Good luck!


rusty

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In God We Trust... All Others, Bring Data.

Miata based, custom chassis build in progress. First Drive!!! http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=2269&start=375

Be careful, solder is the best but is also where your wires will break first.

The group of soldered wires needs to be secured either side of the joins to prevent any flex or vibration at that point. A pre-split lengthwise pvc pipe filled with silicone is but one method.

When dealing with an older used wiring harness I use additional flux. .. it makes things a lot easier. You can get it at the hardware store in the copper pipe section.

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"There are times when a broken tool is better than a sound one, or a twisted personality more useful than a whole one.
For instance, a whole beer bottle isn't half the weapon that half a beer bottle is ..." Randall Garrett

Copper pipe flux is usually acid based and not recommended for electrical wiring. However, if you use it sparingly and neutralize it afterwards, it will work. I find that a liquid toilet cleaner called "The Works" does a treat to prep the bare wires (and old copper pipe) before soldering. You can de-oxidize the copper and then clean with a baking soda wash. That allows you to use benign rosin core solder. Having some good old-fashioned 60/40 (or 63/37) tin-lead solder helps too.

Cheapracer is right. Secure the soldered joints in the harness. If you offset each individual joint, you will minimize the overall buildup from all the heatshrink. I have found that wrapping the harness together near the soldered joints with electrical tape does a pretty good job of securing them. Then put into a split harness sleeve. Of course, the completed harness must be secured to something once in the car. I figure once every 12-15 inches or so.

This part of the build was the worse 7 days of my build. Time went by so slowly. But you'll be happy with the results when you are done.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Thanks for the great tips guys. I especially like the split pvc pipe idea. Heat shrink has been bought, extra solder, and the dirty job of unwrapping the wires has begun.....

Looks like you've disemboweled the car.

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mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.

Indeed, a must.

The other option is to pull each pin out of the multi connector plug, shorten the wire to the right length and then re-install the connecter. It's a PITA taking the old connectors apart but you will have a much cleaner wiring harness. I would still solder the connections. I would guess it took about 50% longer, and you will probably be the only one who will ever notice it. It just depends on the quality level that you are building to. Last do not forget to run the wires thru the gommet(s) before solding the new connections or during Re- routing.
Reduced Wt 8 1/2 lbs just in wires, Dave W

It would be my preference to re-wire the connectors, but I'm not sure how to do that. Can the wires be removed without damage? Is there a special tool required?

Assume you do not have connectors with a sealing o-ring, No specialized tool is needed. Just a small screw driver, but you may have to grind down the sides to fit into the connector. I used an old flat pick. It works best if you can put the connector in a vise, [Vs punching a hole in your hand] then just insert the small screw driver into the connector and push the locking tab down then pull out the wire. If you put a little bend at the end of the screw driver or pick it will help with pushing up the tab. You may also be able to consolidate the wires in some of the runs into just one plug, if you really want to get carried away. Last suggestion is to get a package of velcro ties to used as a tempory method of holding the loose wires together while working with the harness.
Dave W

You make it sound so sane and so easy!

Make sure of your length and the do them one wire at a time. What could possibly go wrong?

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mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.

That picture is even messier than when I was converting my BEC harness to a car!!

Surprisingly I had to shorten the motorcycle harness about 2 feet in most cases. Lot's of fun with a bike harness, decisions, decisions. Do I really need a kick stand switch?

But the tip over switch is useful (as long as it never gets used). It also seems that the clutch switch made starting easier. I wired that through a relay so I don't have to actually push the clutch pedal.

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"My junk is organized. At least is was when I put it wherever it is." -olrowdy
Completed building GSXR1000 CMC7, "Locouki"
Website: http://projekt.com/locouki/