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 Post subject: Fuse Box, Relays, etc
PostPosted: December 3, 2013, 2:07 pm 
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Location: Denver Co
So i am starting in on the wiring and I am trying to figure out what relays i would need and how many fuse box positions.

relays
headlights
fuel pump
cooling electric fan
turn signal/brake light

fuses
tail light
instruments
brake switch
ignition coil (?)
licence plate light

Is that all of them? Any I don't need?

I assume i need something like this to switch the brake light into a turn signal and back once cancelled. correct?
http://www.amazon.com/Signal-Dynamics-P ... B002CUXJZY

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PostPosted: December 3, 2013, 3:47 pm 
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Location: Montreal, Quebec Canada
we used this.. just in case you dident knew them and in case they might get your interest: http://www.isispower.com/

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PostPosted: December 3, 2013, 3:57 pm 
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bobbeysr27 wrote:
we used this.. just in case you dident knew them and in case they might get your interest: http://www.isispower.com/



Wow, I hope their products are better than their web page.

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PostPosted: December 3, 2013, 4:16 pm 
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I bought a Speedway motors 20 circuit kit off Craigslist for TETANUS. Plenty of room for growth, wired for GM column and switches, all wires marked every 6 inches. All in all a pretty simple install

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PostPosted: December 3, 2013, 5:17 pm 
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Location: Novato, CA
Do relays eliminate the need for a fuse? I thought they just took the load off the operating switch. Seems like you could short circuit before or after the relay. In fact, you might need two fuses on a relay circuit. Although I've got four fuses and two relays in my whole car, so I'm probably not the one to ask.

I think the kits are a great idea. I believe they have more than 4 fuses.


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PostPosted: December 3, 2013, 5:34 pm 
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Yup, relays need fuses. Usually one fuse for the load and a separate one for the coil. Especially if you switch 12V for controlling the coil. You can switch the ground on the coil if that is the way you want to go too. Many of the low current coil lines could use one common fuse. It is a good idea to fuse at 1/2 the rated load so if something draws 10Amps, fuse it (and size the wire) for 20 amps. Fuses should be placed as close to the +12V source as possible to reduce the chance of the feed wire to the fuse box from shorting. maybe a fusible link at the battery would be best for that.

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PostPosted: December 3, 2013, 5:35 pm 
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bobbeysr27 wrote:
we used this.. just in case you dident knew them and in case they might get your interest: http://www.isispower.com/

So how did the ISIS system work out? I've been interested in their stuff for a couple of years and have it on the wish list for my build.

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PostPosted: December 3, 2013, 9:52 pm 
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It seems like I can purchase a Hella mini relay box and 16way fuse box and save a ton of money over a pre-wired kit.

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PostPosted: December 3, 2013, 10:26 pm 
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Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan
If the budget can handle the $$, I would look at circut breakers for the critical items such as the headlights and/or tail lites. I would also add a fusible link(s) for the battery feed. Dave W


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PostPosted: December 4, 2013, 9:00 am 
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mjalaly wrote:
It seems like I can purchase a Hella mini relay box and 16way fuse box and save a ton of money over a pre-wired kit.


You can save some, not sure about a ton. I considered doing ground up with components, then spent a day searching ebay and Craigslist.
The advantage of a kit to me was labeled, color coded wires and really good instructions. Those two items more than justified the few extra bucks of my new in the box Craigslist purchase.

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PostPosted: December 4, 2013, 10:06 am 
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Location: Montreal, Quebec Canada
seattletom wrote:
bobbeysr27 wrote:
we used this.. just in case you dident knew them and in case they might get your interest: http://www.isispower.com/

So how did the ISIS system work out? I've been interested in their stuff for a couple of years and have it on the wish list for my build.



easy to install and plug! not so easy to program, im running a vipec ECU, and when its off, it grounds the fuel pump and the fan, so we needed help from isis to modyfy the program to make it work, it took more than a week, im still waiting. I am scared that it might drain some power of the battery on the long parked period, but i will install a kill switch anyway.

I cant talk about reliability for now, we are shaking down the car and still working on it (and the roads a full of snow and salt)

i am not sure about weight saving, but the units are really light and the loom is also light..

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PostPosted: December 4, 2013, 10:51 am 
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davew wrote:
If the budget can handle the $$, I would look at circut breakers for the critical items such as the headlights and/or tail lites. I would also add a fusible link(s) for the battery feed. Dave W


like an inline fuse from the battery to the distribution block?

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PostPosted: December 4, 2013, 11:00 am 
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TooBusy wrote:
mjalaly wrote:
It seems like I can purchase a Hella mini relay box and 16way fuse box and save a ton of money over a pre-wired kit.


You can save some, not sure about a ton. I considered doing ground up with components, then spent a day searching ebay and Craigslist.
The advantage of a kit to me was labeled, color coded wires and really good instructions. Those two items more than justified the few extra bucks of my new in the box Craigslist purchase.


Nothing on Craigslist (locally). I was just thinking that the relays in those kits will probably need to be replaced with different ones and the two hella fuse boxes are $30 each. So if I wire it myself, that is $100 savings over speedway pricing plus wire which i may have plenty of.

I hate wiring. Had to do this guy last week... it sucked!


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PostPosted: December 4, 2013, 11:19 am 
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SearchTempest is your friend. I think I paid $100 for the kit including shipping to my house. I found 4 or 5 for sale when I opened up the search to 1000 miles from my zip code.

A lot depends on where you are in your project. Time on your side will save you more money than building yourself

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http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216


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PostPosted: December 4, 2013, 12:03 pm 
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TooBusy wrote:
SearchTempest is your friend. I think I paid $100 for the kit including shipping to my house. I found 4 or 5 for sale when I opened up the search to 1000 miles from my zip code.

A lot depends on where you are in your project. Time on your side will save you more money than building yourself



yeah there are some but all over $300 ; (

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