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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: April 5, 2014, 4:56 pm 
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Joined: August 10, 2007, 12:05 am
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Location: Champion, Ohio
Well, I've been driving my Seven for a while, usually to work, temperatures be damned. However, I've had starter issues three times now. The first time was a loose crimp, second was a bad starter, and now it's the wiring again, but I can't find a loose wire or crimp this time.

I think it has come to the point where it's time for a new harness, from scratch. However, going to Radio Shack, Harbor Freight, Home Depot, or even DigiKey, is going to be expensive.

Does anyone have fresh wire left over? I figure I have around 40 wires, averaging from 2' to 20', with the longer ones being spliced into several smaller pieces.

I'm getting ready to strip it down to the frame to paint the frame. Weither I'll do it right now or not, I'm not sure, but I'd like to be able to lay out the harness so I have everything sized correctly, and bound together, rather than having some wires loose and some tighter than they should (that's after shortening the original Miata harness twice, still)

Any help would be fantastic, weither it be someone with some wire to sell/donate, or just some hands to help trace and double-check everything.

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PostPosted: April 5, 2014, 5:29 pm 
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Joined: December 24, 2006, 3:32 pm
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Location: N. Versailles, PA 15137
SteyrTMP,
Do you have - have you looked at the clutch all the way disengaged and/or neutral safety switches? Just my first thoughts - cause I'm so short it's a problem for me to push clutch far enough in some cases.
Don


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PostPosted: April 5, 2014, 5:52 pm 
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Location: Champion, Ohio
I'm 6'1", and it's a little small for me. Also, when I built it, I purposefully removed the neutral switch. I was able to jump it with a screwdriver across the terminals, and was able to see that the solenoid was acknowledging the starter button, but there was no power to it. I'll have to trace it for now, I just want to redo everything, and that way I can make sure all the wiring is waterproof, as well.

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PostPosted: April 6, 2014, 8:12 am 
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Joined: December 22, 2006, 2:05 pm
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If the splices are a concern, remove them then solder and heat shrink. Small zip ties are handy if the clips that hold the connectors together are broken. A 100 qty pack of 4 inch long, black, uv protected zips costs about a $1.

No need to remove the starter to test it. Plug a spade terminal wire into the solenoid, then with it out of gear and parking brake set, key off, touch the other end of the wire to the fuse panel feed from the starter.

Many folks don't use the key to engage the starter as a theft deterent. Just a push button some place else.


Wire from Waytek comes only in 250 foot rolls but 250 feet of 14 ga automotive primary wire is only $25, plus shipping.

http://www.waytekwire.com/products/1453/Wire-Cable/

BTW, nice build. Love those rear fenders.

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PostPosted: April 6, 2014, 2:03 pm 
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Location: Champion, Ohio
Thanks. I'm working in getting them on. I have to change rear springs, because I only have two inches of travel. Either stiffer/longer springs or some serious bumpstops.

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