Bent Wrench wrote:
They are very easy to tune yourself, no dyno needed. (for normal street driving)
You do need a wideband O2 sensor to do this though.
The spark table and idle has to be manually tuned, the auto tune that comes with the paid version of TS will take care of your driving part.
If you have an automatic you can get a lot of it done without leaving the driveway.
Here is a roadmap I share with other MS'ers to help them get started.
Do your required fuel calculation, this is a one time setting, not a tuning parameter (any changes here will necessitate a complete retune).
Always start tuning with the hot idle, get the motor good and hot. Thermostat must be open.
Don’t mess with any of the starting or warm up settings until you have established a hot idle. (defaults will get you going)
Hi Bent wrench, When I set this up through the set up guide there were zero defaults. this thing is all you. I have 2000 miles on my current tune in the thread above your welcome to it. I've gone through everything you listed. Thats the basic install. Were moving on from that. This is all timing maps and afr maps. MS doesn't give you any of it. The car runs pretty well but looking at tune comparisons it must be a miracle.
Make sure you are out of any trim areas WUE ASE etc.
Remember WUE should end at 100% just before or very near the thermostat set point (you can fine tune this later)
You should not be using any of trims for hot idle, and you cant tune a cold motor,
You first tune a hot motor and then adjust the trims to make it happy when cold.
Set your Idle manually high 1500-2000 rpm and adjust VE to keep it running clean and build heat.
Now is a good time to verify spark timing, don’t try to do any tuning without first verifying spark timing.
If you can’t get the spark timing dialed in STOP and get this sorted first before moving forward.
No sync loss or misfires are tolerable.
To tune idle first disable closed loop idle control. Set idle speed manually
Disable O2 correction, & always tune on a fully warmed motor.
Add 1 or 2 degrees in the spark table below your target idle speed.
(this will help the motor recover from a sag, especially automatic trans, AC, fans, power steering)
Check that WUE ends at no less than 100% and at a temp slightly lower than thermostat opening. (100% is no change to the fuel calculation)
Make all the cells used for normal idle (a square of 9 cells) in the lower left of your VE table the same number.
Start the motor and adjust the throttle stop so the motor will run steady 700 - 900 rpm.
Then highlight all the cells in the lower left corner, and use the up or down function to change them all.
Adjust to make the motor happy not shooting for a specific AFR.
(many try to set at 14.7, few if any motors will idle there without sequential injection)
You want the smallest number that provides a smooth stable idle (lean best)
Note the AFRs in that area and change your AFR table to that number so Auto Tune does not change them back.
(I lock out those cells when using Auto Tune, highlight and right click and select lock)
Another reason to adjust the AFR table in the idle area is O2 correction will try to steer AFRs in that direction
Then you can make final adjustments to the individual cells in the idle area to fine tune.
Always make final tuning adjustments on a fully warmed up motor (thermostat open).
Then if auto put trans in gear and fine tune again (different cells) blend/interpolate adjoining cells as needed.
Now you can enable closed loop idle and return the throttle stop to just barely open.
I set the throttle stop to just barely open because gack from the PCV will collect around the blade opening and close it up over time.
Not closed so far it sticks (if using closed loop idle).
Most all of the other adjustments use the hot motor settings as a base and modify them for different conditions.
Now once a day you have the chance to make observations for altering WUE settings.
Also cranking squirts and ASE
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