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I studied the resistance values and really couldn't make much sense out of the ohm readings without seeing where the wires went.

Maybe it's only a two speed wiper, stop and wide open? Try connecting a normal 12V headlight bulb in series with the 12V to the wiper and see if the motor will run slowly. You might have to parallel connect the two filaments of the light. It might not have enough power to run the wiper blades though.

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"My junk is organized. At least is was when I put it wherever it is." -olrowdy
Completed building GSXR1000 CMC7, "Locouki"
Website: http://projekt.com/locouki/

I "think" it goes.....Don't take it for granted but check it out on the bench.

Red/Wht (marked H)= 12 volts fused continuous power
Blk/Wht (marked P)= ground
Blk (marked L) (or Grn/Wht) thru resistor to wiper switch for low speed
Grn/Wht (or Blk) direct to high speed side of switch

Both the blk and grn/wht wires are the same terminal so are interchangable
Wiper switch takes either the blk or grn/wht wire to ground for operation
You can eliminate the resistor and one of these wires for a one speed wiper.

I thought that most 2 speed automotive wipers used a tapped field winding rather than a dropping resistor for the 2 speeds. There seems to be no provision for that here. And there would be no need for the 2nd wire if it were just a 1 speed motor. But then again, I base this on my MGA with single speed wiper

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Well, you were right. Thanks.

Worked exactly as you said. I used a rheostat and got a slower speed.

The only thing that was unexpected was that when the black or green wires were disconnected it would keep going but in a pulsing sort of way. I could stop in by holding the shaft with my fingers. I took that as it having enough inertia to rotate past the cam because there's not the normal mechanical resistance from the wiper assembly. Seem reasonable?

Ron

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They say a journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step. By the time you finish the car it'll feel like you've done it on your knees.

This is a commercial wiper unit; not typical.

Sevenesqueron,
the correct polarity will rotate the plastic gear inside clockwise. Rotation the opposite direction may cause the problem you've described and bend the metal strip that breaks the connection at the park position.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Since I FULLY plan on NEVER driving in the rain, and if it DOES happen I’m not sure them wipers, any of them really, would work for a TX-sized downpour anyway – which would be the only kind of rain you’d get caught in if you’re paying much attention to the weather (IMO). I would be more worries about my personal buoyancy in a tub full of water (everythings bigger in TX – even the rain!

Can’t the ‘manual’ wiper I saw at one of the sites posted suffice. Does the wiper HAVE to be electronic at all?

I digress a bit, but with a nearly vertical windshield it would seem that a judicious application of Rain-X would be better than a wiper anyway.

At the bottom of the page...
viewtopic.php?f=41&t=6503&start=45
...you can see Chet's/my Locost post-downpour in Dallas, the RainX is fabulous and the bent squeegee is adequate. I never had any serious complaints about the wiper and I talked to plenty of police.

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Locost builder and adventurer, and founder (but no longer owner) of Kinetic Vehicles

That would depend upon the laws of your jurisdiction - here, if you have a windshield, you must have working wipers & a defroster/defogger. Check on your local legislation, as it's easier to build them in than it is to retrofit after the car's built...

Good point, zetec7, and I'll admit I've been known to go venue shopping. My experience (which though not vast is certainly varied, e.g. I drove two coast-to-coast round trips in a propeller powered pickup truck while doing aircraft engine endurance testing, and you can bet <that> had me talking with lots of law enforcers) is that if your vehicle is equipment legal in its home state, you can pass through other states with confidence. Not too many states define windshield wipers and none I've tread have required motorized windshield wipers. The squeegee on a stick is acceptable (as in not prohibited) in most states, a 12v HF heater/blower on the dashboard qualifies as a defroster, etc. In many states you don't need any of that, you don't even need fenders, provided the vehicle is old enough (or a replica of something old enough) AND you pull over and park at the first raindrop. So yes, read your own state's vehicle code and act accordingly.

BTW, when I lived in Washington I had a friend who had a big crack in his windshield, it's against the WA vehicle code to drive with a cracked windshield so he took it out and wore safety goggles when he drove--it turned out there was no requirement to have a windshield, just a lot of rules prohibiting cracked ones, plastic ones, shaded ones etc. However, he still had to have windshield wipers and windshield washers, and indeed had to demonstrate both every couple weeks when pulled over for "random equipment inspections".

_________________
Locost builder and adventurer, and founder (but no longer owner) of Kinetic Vehicles

You're bang on the money, Jack. Even here, where our vehicle laws are fairly restrictive, if you meet the legal requirements in the jurisdiction your vehicle is registered in, you're okay (within reason, of course...no matter where you're from, vice grips won''t double for a steering wheel ).

In Canada, we generally adopt the US federal standards. While there is no requirement to have a windshield, as you say, if it is there, it must have functioning wipers, no cracks larger than 4", a working defroster, etc. Some Locost builders here have escaped these issues by having a simple "windscreen" (basically, a short plexiglass fairing), Brooklands screens, etc. I haven't seen anyone using simple goggles yet (with our roads, physiognomic media blasting is a distinct possibility), but I suspect you could get away with it.

The reason I'm going to the trouble of doing the whole approved-windshield thing is because I expect to get caught in the rain from time to time, and I hate getting wet (I don't like riding my motorcycle in the rain, either!). But there are lots of builders for whom this is never going to be an issue

I just replaced my poor timing circuit with this new circuit for delays between sweeps. It is based on the 555 timing chip .. so you can change some componenets on the board for as long a delay as you may wish. The rotary switch selects between three different sweep times.

The beauty of this circuit is that I can make it work with my existing wiring for my Lucas setup. The board has two relays .. but I only need one .. so even though it is soldered in place, it is not electrically connected. I have a cool toggle switch in my dash which is SPDT: ON-OFF-(ON). The (ON) is momentary contact which will briefly activate the circuit for one sweep only. (I also use this same ON-OFF-(ON) for my headlight high beams.)

Velleman Kit: K2599 (Soldering skill: Easy!)

http://www.bgmicro.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=12479

I know this is a 3 year old thread, however, I was wondering if there is a better way to avoid using the "Prince of Darkness" electrics, ahla a rear wiper motor from a hatch back.

I attempted to use the wiper system off my donor, Infiniti I30 however the wiper movement is too wide and no amount of trimming of the wiper arms fixes the issue. I can think of a reasonable way to limit the wiper movement and rear hatch wiper motors are very cheap. Only issue is they are one speed only.


This is my attempt so far, but like I said the wiper arm movement is too wide. I would like to use just a single wiper.



evo

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My vq30 middy build http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=4082

You could reduce the crank arm length to limit the side to side motion more or move the 'wrist pin' connection higher on the wiper. It appears you have the capability to do that. My wife's new 2012 focus has a rear hatch wiper with a couple speeds, so some of the newer ones might have the variety you're looking for. Good luck.

i used MG migit arms and drive but made a gear box from the lucas motor parts and fitted the ford ranger motor with all its functions, with the MG system, you could have three wipers if you like.

_________________
this story shall the good man teach his son,
and chrispin chrispian shall ne'er go by,
from this day to the end of the world.
but we in it shall be remembered.

I'm also using a rear wiper on my diesel trike build. There is no separate linkage for it and the whole thing is very small and light; so much so that I doubt how useful it would be for snow (not that that is a problem here). I haven't considered how many speeds it may have. There are pics on my build topic a couple pages from the end.

Ditto on moving the link point on the wiper blade arm closer to the blade pivot.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

wjfawb0 has it right. Getting the desired sweep angle is relatively easy math. You need to know the radius of the motor's arm and the radius of the wiper's arm. (not the wiper blade, but the distance from the pivot to the link)

The full stroke length is 2x the motor radius. This stroke is the chord length of the driven arm. Knowing this, then you can either a) calculate the needed radius for a given angle, or b) calculate the angle sweep from the known wiper arm.

Here is a site that will help with the calculations. http://www.1728.org/circsect.htm

You can play with sweep angle, drive arm radius and driven arm radius. Your choice as to what or how to change the radius/radii.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766