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Lucas isn't that bad, or so I came to believe after I owned a Renault 5 with Ducelier electrics ....

While growing up I drove my Dad's Austin Westminster (sedan with the same six as the Austin Healey, but only 2 SUs) and learned the lesson of monster fuses. I got home one night mostly without headlights because I had to turn them off periodically to keep the smell of smoke down. It did make finding the melted insulation easier the next morning - just fire it up and turn on the headlkights. Fuse never did blow ...

"Lucas isn't that bad" That's not what I thought when the headlight switch in my TR4 shorted out, smoke started pouring out from under the dash, no fuse blew and I ended up ripping the hot battery cable off with my bare hands But I digress...

I was given the complete wiper system from a 1984 Grumman postal van. Strangely enough it was given to me by a former student who I taught how to paint his first sports car and now he owns hundreds of vehicles that supply the movie and TV shows needs and he paints them to be whatever they have to be. Interesting how life works out sometimes. But I digress again.

This is the motor from the system. Does anyone know how the wires hook up? Dumb me, I should have taken out the switch and maybe that would have shown me how it connects up.

Black: terminal labelled L
Green: terminal labelled G and then into the motor
Black/white: to an individual terminal labelled P
Red/white: terminal labelled H

Ron

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They say a journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step. By the time you finish the car it'll feel like you've done it on your knees.

Low, high, park, ground?

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Dreaming the dream since 2003. Haynes chassis, Miata uprights, everything else from 1987 NA RX7 donor.

Well,the black & white wire (P) appears to go to a case-grounded post...if that is so (test for continuity from the case to that wire), and with plain black (L, in this case) generally being ground, I'd then test for continuity between L and P. If yes to both these tests, then you only have two remaining wires wires to sort. One's likely to be high speed, and the other low speed. Park, in my experience, has generally been built in to the mechanism, rather than having a separate wire.

Grounding the black ones (assuming the first premise was correct), and applying power (I tend to use a 2-amp charger for this sort of thing, rather than a huge arc-causing battery ) to either of the remaining two will sort it out...

Thanks for the tips. Know what you mean about arcs. I'm trying to avoid the arcs n' sprarks method also because I only have one of these motors.

No, the photos not clear enough to show it but the P terminal the black and white wire goes to is attached to plastic. There isn't any continuity to ground. It's the only wire that doesn't have continuity to ground.

Black is grounded and there is continuity from it to the red/white and green wires.

So I'm a little reluctant to put power to red/white or green wires when they appear to be grounded

Ron

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They say a journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step. By the time you finish the car it'll feel like you've done it on your knees.

Here is a schematic of how I wired a Lucas wiper motor. The schematic and an explanation of how it works is on my website.

http://dmr-architect.com/~locouki/wiper.html

While it probably must have some differences in how the motor winding are wired compared to yours, the principle is the same. My motor is from an old Jaguar and it used the weirdest connected wiper switch I've ever seen. I barely figured out how it was configured. Finally I just redesigned the circuit using a normal car DPDT relay and a DPDT switch rather than using the 45 year old Lucas switch. To use my circuit as an intermittent wiper all you have to do is momentarily ground the park switch and the wiper runs at low speed until the park switch opens again (one sweep of the windshield).

Where do the Black and red/wht wires go on your wiper?

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"My junk is organized. At least is was when I put it wherever it is." -olrowdy
Completed building GSXR1000 CMC7, "Locouki"
Website: http://projekt.com/locouki/

I measured the resistances to ground:

B/W (P); infinity
G/W (G); 2.3
B (L); 2.3
R/W (H); 4.8

and the resistances to each other:

R/W; B/W, infinity G/W, 4.7 B, 4.8

Black; B/W, infinity G/W, infinity R/W, 4.7

Green/white; B/W, infinity R/W, 4.7 Black, infinity

Black/white; Black, infinity G/W, infinity R/W, 4.7

I can see the pattern but don't know what to make of it.

I've got a feeling I'm going to have to got back and rip out wires and see where they go.

I checked google for wiring wiper motors but the wiring colors quoted in their examples weren't even close to what I have. I was hoping the colors were somewhat standardized. Silly me.

Ron

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They say a journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step. By the time you finish the car it'll feel like you've done it on your knees.

You might try here - ftp://www.rustrepair.com:24/stepvanpdf/grumwiper.pdf as they purport to carry switches etc., so they can probably advise what the color code is (especially if they think you might order, I dunno, wiper arms or something?). Worth a shot if you haven't gone there yet. One thing I've learned about online shopping for esoteric items - never underestimate the value of a phone call to someone who might have the answer! A little shmoozing, and you might get what you need for free. And, they have switches etc. specifically for that motor, it appears...

I agree with Pete B.

The motor needs pos and neg to the green and red wires.

The L or low speed wire will have a resistor. It appears that is why the L wire is connected by itself, offset to leave room for the resistor.

Touch the G and the L across a battery. It will turn slowly.
Touch the G and the H across a battery. It will turn quickly.
The park wire probably applies power until the motor rotates to a deadspot or the park position. Touch G and P across a battery and it should turn slowly then stop at one position.


You can use an inline fuse from Radioshack if your concerned.

http://www.stepvanparts.com/grumman_stepvan_p1.htm

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Hahaha, I was going to withdraw my idiot savant remark because I had no idea what else might be required (like a resistor), but I am redeemed.

Mill Supply ought to be able to provide a switch and advice (great link). I wonder if the intermittent switch could be used with this motor.

_________________
Dreaming the dream since 2003. Haynes chassis, Miata uprights, everything else from 1987 NA RX7 donor.

Yes it could. The delay circuit is built into the switch.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Thanks guys,

I'm glad to see the little bits and pieces are still available. Things like the special little clips that attach to the pivot arms. I was sooooo careful not to loose one because I figured that if one went flying off into space I'd never be able to replace it. So thanks for parts source if needed.

Well, good thing I used an inline fuse because it did its job.

G-L; blew fuse
G-H; turned quickly!
G-P; nothing

Ron

_________________
They say a journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step. By the time you finish the car it'll feel like you've done it on your knees.

What size fuse? My utilimaster uses a 25 amp fuse on the wipers. From your resistance measurements, it appears that L is actually H with a lower resistance for high speed.

The motor is on the right side. The red and green wires apply + and - to the motor.

The white plastic part houses the gear reduction. There should be a metal ring with a gap at the park position.

Remove the three bolts and zip tie.

Take a picture of the inside wiring route and the outside with the zip tie removed.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Good suggestion, getting the wires out the way made the situation clearer. I can see the terminals "in the hole" better. There're not individual terminals, but two pair of terminals.

Black (L) and Green/white (G) share the same terminal and then connect to the green motor wire.

Red/white (H) connects to the red motor wire.

Black/white (P) goes to the individual terminal with the cam under it.

_________________
They say a journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step. By the time you finish the car it'll feel like you've done it on your knees.

Thats much better.

The black and white wire is park. Instead of the ring with the gap I expected, it has the ramp you described which stops the motor at the same position everytime.

A resistor for low speed must be built into the control head. Full speed is across red and either of the remaining white/green or black wires.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12