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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: May 29, 2018, 3:51 pm 
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Location: That point where the humidity and the temperature combine forces to destroy all that is good
So I'm aware that Jag stuff is inherently heavy out-of-the-box (to ensure that smooth ride no doubt), that's what I'm working with. Looking at the various book plans and the parts I have to work with, I'm not sure what I have in mind equates to a 7 by any stretch of anyone's imagination but my own. However, the end result I'm looking for isn't a race car by any stretch of the imagination, either. Just a cool cruiser with that Jag exhaust burble... and a little fun to drive with spirit? I'm also looking at hiding as much of the grungy bits behind bodywork and fenders, so keeping the subframes is more my plan than slicing and dicing them....

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PostPosted: May 30, 2018, 1:05 am 
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Joined: November 11, 2013, 4:47 am
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Location: No. Nevada
Look at the RONART W152 for inspiration, also the Kougar, among others.
There are also Jag C and D replicas, so Jag will work just fine once you sort out your desired body shape.


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PostPosted: May 30, 2018, 8:21 am 
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Location: That point where the humidity and the temperature combine forces to destroy all that is good
Those are indeed a few of my inspirations, as well as the SS100 clones, but those compound curves..... Maybe Kougar will sell one piece at a time....

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PostPosted: July 2, 2018, 11:41 am 
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Location: That point where the humidity and the temperature combine forces to destroy all that is good
Working out a wheelbase of app 96 inches, maybe a few more; Lots of engine setback (as much as practical, anyway) to get the radiator between the front uprights and lose that damn long nose. Stripped the front subframe down to it's essential minimum, leaving the rear mounting pads for reference points; stripped the rear subframe/cage of everything not essential to operation. What I have decided is that, while the front portion of the frame will be solidly welded to the subframe, for ease of future repairs, the rear cage will be bolted to the frame, but not using the stock rubber mounts. I will be welding drilled angle to the top of the cage and bolting the frame into that. Not sure I'll be needing the radius arms if the IRS is solid mounted, but working up a way to mount the forward end of them if I decide I do need them. Will require body mounts anyway, so one pair doing double duty shouldn't be a problem. Thinking I can ditch the stock fan blade and not have to use all that setback.

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PostPosted: July 2, 2018, 12:27 pm 
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Location: No. Nevada
Jag IRS is pretty easy to mount in an easily removed manner even without the stock cage.
I'm doing it in a '68 El Camino.

More info than you will have time for here, http://irsforum.boardhost.com

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PostPosted: July 2, 2018, 1:50 pm 
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Location: That point where the humidity and the temperature combine forces to destroy all that is good
Yep, I've gleaned all kinds of good info from that site. I'm mainly keeping the cage to make things simpler overall. I -could- mount the front subframe in a similar fashion, but I'm trying to keep the front end "clean". The rear won't be visible for the most part, and I will be making access panels for the brakes as well as the frame bolts just in case.

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PostPosted: July 11, 2018, 8:05 am 
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Location: That point where the humidity and the temperature combine forces to destroy all that is good
Ended up with a wheelbase of app 110". Still need to extend the rear of the frame to accomodate a fuel tank and some semblance of a trunk. Frame is supported by the suspension, with the weight of the engine and trans in it, and seems to be solid and have no flex.

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PostPosted: July 14, 2018, 5:25 pm 
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Location: That point where the humidity and the temperature combine forces to destroy all that is good
Pulled the engine and transmission off so I could do some cleanup and additional welding. Picked the frame up from the side with my engine hoist, no flex whatsoever. What was straight when level was straight when lifted by the midpoint.

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