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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: July 10, 2021, 8:06 am 
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Joined: August 28, 2010, 7:53 am
Posts: 298
Here is a pic of my UCAs with tie rod being used as a ball joint. I wanted a
clean look. Using pushrods with rocker arms so the coil over and ARB will
be hidden in the nose.
The UCA tubing is 1" x 0.187 wall for the part with the tierod and 1" by 0.125
for the other part
Adjusting camber will change caster.
The upper frame rails are not parallel - they are wider at the rear than the front
This creates anti-dive geometry and allows for caster adjustment.
I made the inboard mounts wider than the control arm bushings by about 1/2"
Shimming adjusts caster. It changes camber slightly so getting caster and
camber adjusted takes a little time.


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PostPosted: July 10, 2021, 5:21 pm 
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Joined: May 6, 2021, 11:43 am
Posts: 45
Thank you, a very neat installation. Sadly I can't hide my dampers and springs as the engine occupies the space between the wishbones. I once had a Formula Ford with inboard shocks.
What is the uca/ball joint thread size and how did you form it?
Love your nose cowling


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PostPosted: July 11, 2021, 7:32 am 
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Joined: August 28, 2010, 7:53 am
Posts: 298
The tie rod shanks are 3/4-16. I drilled and tapped in in my lathe.

I bought a tap that was for a class 3 fit which is tighter than standard class 2,
per recommendation of aerospace engineer friend
There is some fancy nomenclature on good taps which denotes the class fit
etc. I forgot what is was though, but there is more variation than i expected

The drill size is 11/16. The tubing was 1" with 3/16" wall, so the ID was 5/8.
You can get tubing with 11/16 ID but the surface is very hard from the
drawing process which makes tapping even worse.

Drilling was easy enough but tapping was a B###H! The close thread fit required
a lot of torque to tap. I used the lathe to start, but it didnt et too far. I ended up
using 20" crescent wrench to turn the tap, to the lathe did make a good workpiece
holder.

The end result was an excellent fit with no detectable side-side play.
I notched the tubing in my milling machine with a hole saw.
I made a fixture to weld it all together.
All 4 uppers were made this way. Lowers have press-in BJs


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PostPosted: July 13, 2021, 1:44 pm 
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Joined: May 6, 2021, 11:43 am
Posts: 45
My local NAPA got me an ES150R for trial fit purposes. Its perfect. Problem solved.

This thread is now closed, thanks for the help guys.


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PostPosted: November 21, 2021, 2:08 am 
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Joined: May 17, 2008, 10:55 pm
Posts: 327
Location: canada
Curious where you sourced that unique looking upper arm. I might have a use for that.


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