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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: July 26, 2011, 9:16 am 
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Joined: November 12, 2008, 6:29 am
Posts: 3567
Warren Nethercote wrote:
Cheapracer,
One question: You have located the BEX gears on the deDion tube and the ends of the link on the chassis. Had you done it the other way around as per most Mumfords I've seen (on this site), a lower RC might have been possible.


The RC is where the line of the 2 tie links meet, mounting it and locating the RC is based on that. You can lower the gear pivots, raise the outer mounts or lengthen the gear/quadrant arms - all will lower the RC in the case above.

I'm not a "low RC" man.

Since your enthused by those pics here's some of an experimental split beam front axle ..


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PostPosted: July 26, 2011, 10:38 am 
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Joined: January 2, 2009, 1:45 pm
Posts: 1322
Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia
Ok ..... when are we going to see some pics of the car? :) Is there a planned build log, or barring that, a post to the build log section with a few more photos of the overall concept in store for us. It looks like it could be interesting, and different.

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Warren
Isuzu Pickup/SR20DE, +401 COLD frame
Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=11601


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PostPosted: May 26, 2018, 12:22 am 
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Joined: March 30, 2011, 7:18 am
Posts: 1615
Location: central Arkansas
So I made a cardboard model of a WOBlink, using a 1:3 ratio instead of the 1:2 usually pictured.

floating link: A=6", B=3", OAL 9"
top link: 6" (B * 3)
bottom link: 18" ((A+B) * 2)

The eyeball-O-meter shows about 1/2" of error at 3" of bump, but it takes about 6" of droop to get the same amount. The model is 1/2 size, cardboard and thumbtacks, dimensions accurate within 1/16".


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