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PostPosted: March 29, 2011, 2:19 pm 
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Joined: August 16, 2010, 5:03 pm
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Location: Whitby, Ontario
If you don't tie the springs to the perches and you droop beyond the free length of the spring, gravity will still be pulling the unsprung weight of the tyre, rim & hub down to the ground, imparting a very small amount of traction. (With the caveat of the spring maybe not seating correctly upon re-compression)

If, however, you tie the springs to the perches, then your stretched spring will be pulling up on the tyre/rim/hub combo, fighting the gravity pulling it down and reducing the tiny bit of traction it would give you. I think that's what Kurt is trying to say, right?

In reality, I don't think think the amount of traction from 'dangling' suspension could be that great anyway so is this difference even relevant? Given this, i'd probably go for tying up the springs in this instance. On my minis, I just had bump stops to stop the suspension trumpets from falling out :) Never did get very far in fine suspension tuning on them...

I just had a cuppa by the way :)

Tom...


Last edited by Tom17 on March 29, 2011, 4:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: March 29, 2011, 3:15 pm 
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Joined: April 23, 2006, 8:26 pm
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Location: SoCal
Who knows what I'm trying to say...

I'm just saying that there's no point in allowing suspension to droop more than the spring's free length, because beyond that point there's no weight on it and it stops being relavent.

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Last edited by KB58 on March 30, 2011, 12:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: March 29, 2011, 7:10 pm 
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Always Moore!
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Joined: November 9, 2007, 3:40 pm
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Exactly.

We had an FSAE car with rear springs that would unseat at full droop. The inside rear would always unload in a tight turn when you gave it gas even though it had a Torsen differential. After installing softer rear springs, the collars had to be lowered more to obtain the correct ride height - as a side effect, the springs would remain seated under full droop. A stiffer rear bar was required to maintain roll stiffness distribution.

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PostPosted: March 30, 2011, 11:12 am 
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Joined: October 10, 2010, 10:26 am
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Location: Guadalupe, CA
Well, I appreciate all the insight on this topic guys.. went out last night and decided to rework the upper control arms for more clearance.. In the end, I think I'm going to get fully 2.75" bump travel (with an additional 1/4" clearance for peace of mind)... better than what I had a few days ago- and about as good as this project will reasonably allow..

thanks again-

ccrunner

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