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 Post subject: Redrill Hubs
PostPosted: June 22, 2017, 3:32 pm 
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So this is the Second time I have purchased hubs and my APR suds don't press in. It looks like aftermarket hubs come with a different knurl hole diameter than factory do. Any issue with just re drilling the hub with smaller holes? looks common but i wanted to see if anyone had experience with this.

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 Post subject: Re: Redrill Hubs
PostPosted: June 22, 2017, 4:23 pm 
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If I were re-drilling existing holes larger, I wouldn't have a problem. I wouldn't try drilling new holes unless I had a had a way to drill them really accurately.


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 Post subject: Re: Redrill Hubs
PostPosted: June 22, 2017, 4:30 pm 
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I do on my CNC but the issue I am running into now is that there isn't really a drill that fits the required press. ARP recommends a .007-.009 press which puts it between a 12mm and 31/64 drill.

I found a stud that is only slightly larger than the factory one but now i need to find someone locally who has it.

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 Post subject: Re: Redrill Hubs
PostPosted: June 22, 2017, 8:02 pm 
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mjalaly wrote:
I do on my CNC but the issue I am running into now is that there isn't really a drill that fits the required press. ARP recommends a .007-.009 press which puts it between a 12mm and 31/64 drill.

I found a stud that is only slightly larger than the factory one but now i need to find someone locally who has it.


I had this same issue with my t-bird hubs. I ended up just buying standard bolts. Under drilling slightly and tapping the holes for my threat. I Loctite and lock wired the bolts as well as giving a slight vice crunch on the bottoming threaded. Buying a $120 reamer just didn't work for me. And hell the hot rod big brake kits do this for their hubs.

Since you have a CNC you could run an endmill in a spiral path to do a clean up cut of the hole versus straight drilling if you really prefer press fit.

Or chuck the stud in a drill press and file the mess to match.

:cheers:

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 Post subject: Re: Redrill Hubs
PostPosted: June 22, 2017, 9:24 pm 
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Yeah I just bought the other studs. Now I just need to open the existing holes up by .005".

Should be easy

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 Post subject: Re: Redrill Hubs
PostPosted: June 22, 2017, 9:55 pm 
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I'd just indicate it in, and do a center plunge entry circle mill/contour mill path on each hole to open them up to the proper size.

You have a FADAL, right?

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 Post subject: Re: Redrill Hubs
PostPosted: June 22, 2017, 10:04 pm 
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I'm a HASS guy!!!

No I have a cnc coverted mill. I just plan on indexing each hole with a drill bit and then plunging it with the right size.

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 Post subject: Re: Redrill Hubs
PostPosted: June 22, 2017, 10:16 pm 
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Metric drills are available in decimal sizes. i.e., 12.1, 12.2, 12.3 mm, etc.

Bill


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 Post subject: Re: Redrill Hubs
PostPosted: June 22, 2017, 10:27 pm 
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That works too. I tend to use a dowel/gauge pin instead of a drill bit though, less of a chance of deflection.

Ah, my bad on the HAAS vs FADAL thing.

Full disclosure, FADAL 4020HT owner, cut my teeth on a HAAS VF1 and a Mazak 410A-II. All great machines.

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 Post subject: Re: Redrill Hubs
PostPosted: June 22, 2017, 10:41 pm 
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BBlue wrote:
Metric drills are available in decimal sizes. i.e., 12.1, 12.2, 12.3 mm, etc.

Bill


This - I had a similar issue on the Sprite.

What studs are you using and what hole diameter does ARP recommend?

If you have to redrill, I don't think its a big deal as long as you can find the center fairly accurately* and have enough edge margin between the new holes and existing holes.

*Most modern stuff is hub centric anyways so honestly you just need to be within a few thousandths but I know you're capable of doing better. ;)

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 Post subject: Re: Redrill Hubs
PostPosted: June 23, 2017, 7:15 pm 
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I decided to just make new hubs!!
Attachment:
2017-06-23 16.51.05.jpg
2017-06-23 16.51.05.jpg [ 782.51 KiB | Viewed 642 times ]


Just kidding. I just drilled the holes slightly and pressed the other studs in.

I ran into an issue though. When I pressed the hub out, the bearing, hub and bearing retaining plate all came out. I don't know how much this plate did for retain anything since that is what the axel nut is for so I'm not sure if it needs to be in there or not.

Attachment:
2017-06-23 16.51.49.jpg
2017-06-23 16.51.49.jpg [ 861.52 KiB | Viewed 642 times ]

Attachment:
2017-06-23 16.58.08.jpg
2017-06-23 16.58.08.jpg [ 499.21 KiB | Viewed 642 times ]

Attachment:
2017-06-23 17.11.32.jpg
2017-06-23 17.11.32.jpg [ 729.95 KiB | Viewed 642 times ]


Thoughts? Press the hub in and go or wait until I can machine up new ones?

Some cars don't even use them.... hummmmm

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 Post subject: Re: Redrill Hubs
PostPosted: June 27, 2017, 10:06 am 
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mjalaly wrote:

I ran into an issue though. When I pressed the hub out, the bearing, hub and bearing retaining plate all came out. I don't know how much this plate did for retain anything since that is what the axel nut is for so I'm not sure if it needs to be in there or not.


Thoughts? Press the hub in and go or wait until I can machine up new ones?

Some cars don't even use them.... hummmmm


Two things.

What is the bore diameter the bearing is pressing in? looking at the face of the bearing it appears that it didn't have enough interference fit. If the bearing is 1" to 2" od iirc, the bore should be at least 0.0006? under size. dont have my handbook with me so i am pulling that out of my backside.

And if you can I would add 4 more screws to that plate and make sure what ever you use is hardened steel or a 4140 cromoly plate.

Most bearing holders i know of have a boss that the bearing sleeve presses to and a place for a snap ring behind the other side to hold the sleeve. Honda being the exception with the snap rings i'm told.

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