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 Post subject: T-Bird IRS hub machining
PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 10:02 am 
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Joined: Tue Sep 24, 2013 4:06 pm
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Location: Charlotte, NC
I had some trouble finding a machine shop to redrill my T-bird hubs. I had to take the whole assembly to a shop to have the hubs pressed out and then the hub to the machine shop to have them drilled, then back to the auto shop to have new bearings and hub pressed back in. I found this guy's site after i did all this (Murphy's law) and thought it might be helpful to this group. I didn't use him nor do I know anything about him but he is a FFR guy and his prices are reasonable.

http://irsmachining.com

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 10:41 am 
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When I was planning my build, I saw that Stu at IRS Machining comes highly regarded by the FFR community. I have also seen his work on seattletom's uprights, which look great in my opinion, and will be having mine done there as well.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 1:19 pm 
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+1 on IRS Machining

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 2:48 pm 
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Location: Alberta
I just pounded mine out and took the hubs to a local machine shop. He did a great job. I'd have been tempted to use IRS but the shipping is prohibitive as I'm not in the lower 48. Its pretty straightforward and any machine shop should be able to do it no problem for the price IRS charges as no shipping is involved.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 3:32 pm 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
Being in Charlotte, NC one would think that it would be easy to find a machine shop that wants to do the work, but.... one would be wrong. i had a hell of a time finding a shop to drill the hubs. The shop that I did find charged me $20/hole :puke: Thats with me taking care of all the other steps. IRS Machining seems like a good deal to me but i am in the lower 48 so shipping is less of an issue for me.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 3:38 pm 
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Wow, was he trying to pay his press off with your job? Thats alot. I was way up north and I think I only paid $110.00.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 11:16 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 23, 2008 9:55 pm
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Location: CR, Iowa
Here is another option. I don't have any experience with this jig but the pricing doesn't look to bad and you can sell it when you are done with it.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 11:52 pm 
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Location: Massachusetts
Hi Lurch, where do you find one of those jigs, looks like it would work...

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 12:01 pm 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
Mnot wrote:
Being in Charlotte, NC one would think that it would be easy to find a machine shop that wants to do the work, but.... one would be wrong. i had a hell of a time finding a shop to drill the hubs. The shop that I did find charged me $20/hole :puke: Thats with me taking care of all the other steps. IRS Machining seems like a good deal to me but i am in the lower 48 so shipping is less of an issue for me.


Damn Gavin, there's a shop in Gastonia right by my house and he hasn't turned me down for anything. Still waiting on my cylinder for the kart that I dropped off last month tho... He's old and prob forgot about me. lol

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26 years old, Shifter Kart racer and mechanic. Owner of 8EightFabrication (check me out on Instagram @kartingginger or #88Fab). Looking at building a Car9 locost powered by and R1 with miata and suby bits. Daily Drive a '14 Focus Hatch
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 12:06 pm 
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Only issue I see with that jig is different lug sizes and it moving around. Granted Im sure its only made for 1 type of hub.

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26 years old, Shifter Kart racer and mechanic. Owner of 8EightFabrication (check me out on Instagram @kartingginger or #88Fab). Looking at building a Car9 locost powered by and R1 with miata and suby bits. Daily Drive a '14 Focus Hatch
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 4:41 pm 
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Location: CR, Iowa
The jigs are available from Rotten Leonard's Jalopy Shop. I have not yet used one myself but there are instructions on the website. Each jig is specific to a starting and an ending bolt pattern. Judging from the instructions and the picture above the original bolt pattern has tapered seat bolt holes making the jig lug centric so movement shouldn't be a concern once the lugs are tightened down. One downside is that you can only drill 2 pilot holes and 2 finish holes at a time before having to reposition the jig although an impact wrench would make that go quick.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 8:36 pm 
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Lurch wrote:
The jigs are available from Rotten Leonard's Jalopy Shop. I have not yet used one myself but there are instructions on the website. Each jig is specific to a starting and an ending bolt pattern. Judging from the instructions and the picture above the original bolt pattern has tapered seat bolt holes making the jig lug centric so movement shouldn't be a concern once the lugs are tightened down. One downside is that you can only drill 2 pilot holes and 2 finish holes at a time before having to reposition the jig although an impact wrench would make that go quick.
Lurch, good explanation. The system does need the old wheel studs in place to locate the guide. I looked at this jig previously for re-drilling a pair of brake rotor hats and would have needed to source an "old pattern" scrap axle with studs intact to set up the guide.

These guides look to be a pretty nice solution. One that could be "traded" around by forum members.

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 9:35 pm 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
Briggs- feel free to pass on your guy's info. I have been waiting a month for my steering rack And i hope he doesn't charge per day! I think I paid $200 for two hubs and 2 rotors.

The jig is an interesting option. If someone has experience with one I hope they will chime in.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2014 10:12 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2012 6:41 pm
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Good morning, All. Excuse me but, after working too many hours, and being too Cold in my shop, I am trying to catch-up. (mentally, it's still too cold to physically catch-up!) I am using the M12 T-Bird I.R.S. also, and after reading these posts, I am assuming that nobody wants to use the "machined" adapters? I am not new to Cars, but I am new to "building" them. Perhaps I didn't do enough research, before thinking about using them? Needless to say, any and all help, is needed? Thanks, Don


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