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Hello forum!

Looking for some non Locost build info on control arm tubing sizes and wall thickness for a 2200lb tub based car with double wishbone front and rear suspension utilizing miata knuckles and suspension geometry (for the most part) RWD.

Figured I would pick your guys/gals heads to see what you think, after all the searching I do always ends up on this forum.

Heres what Im thinking.

All 4130
1" .083" lowers in rear
3/4" .083 uppers in rear
1/2" rod ends.

Any suggestions or input would be great.

Thanks, Scott.

I suggest dom, 1", 0.83" uca and lca with .125" strip for brackets and braces. Arrangement is just as important as wall and od. Arms should bend not break, and they should bend before the chassis does. No sudden changes in crossection.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Thanks for the response!

DOM it is then.

Scott.

Agree with ^

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Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/

I'm looking into the same info.
Is 1/2" rod-ends what is normally used on these type of cars?

I went with the 1" x .083" tubing on mine for all 8 control arms. I think you could easily get by with 3/4" for the upper control arms. The uppers see less stress. However any very small gains in weight would not be seen unless you are racing at a national level.

All my rod ends are 1/2" except I used 5/8" for my upper outer in place of an upper ball joint. This was chosen based on Jack's testing and suggestions.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

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