LocostUSA.com

Has anyone had much success with these? I'm planning on making them to use with the Ford 8.8 IRS rear and V8. Seems alot cheaper to make than buying the lincoln/cougar/cobra ones since they go for a premium now, and looks like they can be made pretty stout. Thanks.

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'Always remember, Amateurs build the Ark, professionals built the Titanic'

If you do decide to go with the Haynes upright and you want to fit discs instead of drums you will need to rotate the bearing mounting flange like below to accommodate the calipers. This will stop the calipers fouling the uprights and it puts the bleed nipple on the caliper in the right place. Book spec is for drums only.





Bob

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Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16640&p=187700#p187700

Mancave http://s1116.photobucket.com/user/mypic ... ow/mancave

Try searching 'Thunderbird rear knuckle' on ebay. I'm seeing a ton at very reasonable prices.

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Dreaming the dream since 2003. Haynes chassis, Miata uprights, everything else from 1987 NA RX7 donor.

I think I paid about $125 for the knuckles, rotors, clippers, and half shafts (which i don't need) at the local salvage yard. I think that is pretty reasonable.

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

What bolt-on hubs are compatible with the 8.8 IRS axles? If not using 8.8 IRS axles, what compatible bolt-on hub/axle pairs are compatible with the 8.8 IRS differential? If there is a readily available direct fit solution for bolt-on hubs with the 8.8 IRS pumpkin, I would be very interested to know more!

Also consider looking for people parting their own Thunderbird/Cougar/Mk. VIII on Craigslist, in addition to you-pull-it yards, so that you can get everything at once rather than piece meal. Buying in bulk and/or providing the labor yourself are great ways to reduce the cost. I managed to find a guy parting a Mk. VIII who was willing to sell me the entire rear subframe assembly for $100, provided I pull the damn thing myself. Then I sold the aluminum LCA's to a T-Bird enthusiast for $75, for a net cost of $25 (plus a few in the swear jar) to get the diff, axles, uprights, and brakes. I probably could have just about broken even if I had tried to get scrap value for that steel lump of a subframe structure as well. Admittedly it's also not exactly going to be 'cheap' getting it all refurbished per my plans, but that's not all absolutely necessary either.

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-Justin

"Orville Wright did not have a pilots license." - Gordon MacKenzie