LocostUSA.com

I'm looking for bushing type A Arm ends with the ability to pivot in the opposite plane.
I've seen what I want for sale in the past but cannot seem to locate them now that I am ready to buy.
I can fab them if I must but unless the vendor is overcharging I would rather just buy them.
Searched the vendors and this forum without any luck.

This is for a Triumph GT6, front and rear A arms.
So need not be so large as what a Chevy would require.

Do not want to use Rose-Joint ends as they are really too harsh and will not hold up well on a street car that is driven frequently.

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Geometrically is this something that would be solved by a bolted joint on the outer end of the wishbone for one of the legs? Jack McCornack sells these and there should be pictures on the Kinetic Vehicles website.

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Searched his site but did not find them.

I want a bush for the horizontal plane and an adjustable joint which can be a bolt in the vertical plane.
Want to be able to adjust toe without deflecting the bushing.

Seems the last time I saw them they were quoted being sourced from "The Rod Shop" but a web search is fruitless as I'm not hanging curtains!

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Finally found what I'm after at Speedway Motors, but the price is a killer even on sale!
Also polished and larger than needed.
Should be another source out there.
At $90.00 each I would make my own.

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I guess the part I was thinking of wouldn'treally work for you, you would have to be able to shim the joint forward and back at least.

If you can find it unplates and polished it would be cheaper... Maybe this is the place you were thinking of:
http://rodendsupply.com

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Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
Car9 Roadster information - models, drawings, resources etc.

Rose-joint type rod ends with seals would be the simple answer.
But not what I really want to use as stated above.

If I'm going to make my own parts I will look into Ti. for at least the bushed portion.
Why not, the cars name is "Trick-6".

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Richard, maybe you are trying to do too much withone piece,have you looked at the Rorty irs system for a locost, in which the double swivel is separated into two independant parts

http://locost7.info/files/suspension/Ro ... sembly.pdf

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I will look at that more tonight.
Part of my issue is packaging with the GT6 envelope.
Unlike a Locost I'm constrained by the existing body and chassis.

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*Somewhere* I've seen rubber-bushed rod ends. They looked pretty much like Heim/Rose joints, except with a bonded rubber sleeve instead of a ball.

Unless they were very large they probably wouldn't be suitable for front suspension applications, but I could really use some on my Watts linkage. Alas, my search-fu has failed to turn up anything except the Speedway ends, which aren't the same thing at all.

One of my main desires is to not have to use steel on steel or steel on bronze rode ends.
Harsh, expensive, and do not last that well on the street for a daily driver.

Now considering using "Johnny Joints".
Much more angular deflection than I need but the ball rides in nylon and they are very cheap to rebuild.
2" with 3/4 shank is probably more than I need but seems to be the smallest available.

Anyone here have experience with them?

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Caterham use the Triumph GT6 upright, machined to take a 5/8" spherical bearing instead of the original trunnion.

They don't seem to have too much issue with either wear or harshness (and remember with respect to the latter that the ball joints on your daily driver are basically metal on metal; you've got rubber/poly bushes on the inner ends of the wishbones that will take out as much or as little harsheness as you like)?

Peterbilt uses them in their clutch linkages, they're 1/2" NF male thread on the shank and have a 1/2" ID sleeve in the rubber. I don't have one handy to take a picture of, but they look like a slightly wider than usual heim joint, similar in size to one with high misalignment spacers. They also use some nice 3/4" hex aluminum links in various lengths that I used for some of my suspension parts. I just cut off the right hand threaded end to the length I wanted, then drilled and tapped it. As a bunch, it's nice being able to put a wrench on the links for adjusting them and tightening the jam nuts.
Kristian

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Richard, you could design the arms to use replacement nylon bushes and not bind with adjustments.

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Current main design and parts location effort is for the rear A arms and upright.

Front will have to be fabricated arms to accommodate the early Pinto spindles and hubs.

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Thanks, Kristian! I've searched on "Peterbilt clutch linkage" and "Peterbilt clutch bushing" with no luck. Is there some other specific phrase I should look for?