joetemus wrote:
Do I need to change anything to do a pushrod style suspension?
The suspension geometry doesn't care where the coilovers are mounted, provided their selected/tuned accordingly for the motion ratio.
joetemus wrote:
Basically I'm asking for some examples of where to start since I have been told its best to design the chassis around the drive train and suspension. I am not asking for someone to design the suspension for me, just to help me get started.
http://www.sae.org/students/presentations/suspension_101_by_steve_lyman.pdfjoetemus wrote:
That's what I mean, they fabricate a arms and such, but use the geometry? Maybe I was just looking at the exception
Most convert the strut suspension typical to most FWD cars into an SLA (double wishbone/a-arm) suspension. I'd say the ones that keep the strut suspension are definitely the exception rather than the rule.
wrightcomputing wrote:
You could easily do it as a Lotus 7 or even a Jeep.
...Or a hotrod/T-Bucket. Also note that every exterior body panel on a Fiero is a removeable piece of plastic.
KB58 wrote:
If the primary goal is an auto-X car, I strongly suggest *starting* with the rule book rather than treating it as just another line item.
This if you're building an street legal autox car just to have fun with.
KB58 wrote:
If the primary goal is an auto-X car, I strongly suggest *starting* with the rule book rather than treating it as just another line item.
Again if you're building a dedicated autox car just to have fun with.
KB58 wrote:
If the primary goal is an auto-X car, I strongly suggest *starting* with the rule book rather than treating it as just another line item.
And one more time for good measure if you're building a dedicated autox car that you want to also be at all competitive with. Personally, I would never be able to understand spending all that time and money building and developing something like this, if being as competitive as possible was not one of the primary design criteria.
joetemus wrote:
I have been skimming through the rules, and after a few searches on Ar-i-el atoms I am not sure if I will be competitive no matter where I put it.
A quick pass through the rules, and I'd agree that it looks like non production based EV's are relegated to either E-Mod or A-Mod. Although to the best of my understanding, an At*m type car without wings should ultimately be eligible for EM under the kit car provision, even if it still technically hasn't yet been submitted for approval. I'd say the two biggest limiting factors in being at least decently/reasonably competitive, is your imagination and your driving skill. Sure money is necessary and more of it can make things like more power, less weight, and more grip easier to accomplish, but huge sums of it are not absolutely necessary.
joetemus wrote:
Should I just use the fiero geometry, or should I work out some more agressive new geometry?
That might partially depend on what year Fiero that is, and how much time/effort you are willing/able to put into this build.. The 88's got much improved stock geometry, and reusing subframes (or at least the geometry) would definitely help expedite the build. But there is also the flip side to that as well. Earlier cars had a more compromised suspension and and developing your own specifically intended for autox should yield a superior result.
joetemus wrote:
I've heard 15" tires are the cheapest for rubber.
The softest compound slicks you can source, on 13's are what competitive cars run in A/E Mod. I believe the most popular sizes for competitors in these classes, are from the Formula Atlantic cars.
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