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Hi Guys,

Was wondering if you have any clever ideas of shortening the emergency cable? The one before it splits between left and right. The one with the adjuster screw. I figure I need to delete about 2 inches from it. I dont think welding is a good idea on it, since I dont know the material or if its even weldable?

Might be easier to swap the rear uprights so the calipers are aft of the wheels (if there is room), then route the cables more directly than if the calipers were in front or extend the system between the end of the cables and the lever assy.
Another option is rope clamps or have the cables swedged with ferrules at a hydraulic shop.

Another option is to route the cables through a curved piece of tube or around a large radius pulley with tabs to keep the cable in the groove when the tension is released.

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You need to shorten the T cable? I would poke around ebay or the junkyard looking for another application that has a shorter cable. I bet you can find another source that will drop in place.

The hydraulic e-brake is an option if your local doesn't require a physical cable. Having said that, I would probably block the car if you park on a hill, long-term, etc with a hydraulic brake, just in case the $40 ebrake valve starts leaking

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Geek49203 aka
Tim Wohlford
Louisville, KY
Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.

I am guessing that moving the anchor bracket for the housing is not possible for some reason?

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Parts left out cost nothing and cause no problems!!

Take a ~1" long piece of 5/16 steel rod, drill thru the center appropriate for the cable dia and braze the shortened cable to it. And Robert is your father's brother.

Simple and elegant solution IMO. More importantly, it works.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I kind of do the same thing as Chuck described but instead of brazing I swage the drilled home made cable end onto the cable. I push the cable though the cable end and once swaged I grind the excess cable flush with the cable end. I use a swage tool that I bought when building my airplane, but you can make one easily. For the steel cable ends I make I use the press on the swage tool instead of pulling it together with the bolts. I'll swage the cable end 3 or 4 times rotating it a bit each time.
You will see OEM cables with swaged cable ends built this way.

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
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Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

I like this idea a lot. Is brazing strong enough? If it is, this is super elegant and something I want to do.

The brazing rod I get at my local Menards (a Home Depot type store) is US Forge #8021. It has a tensile strength of 113,000 PSI. That is stronger than your chassis steel. I'd say it is probably strong enough to do the job!

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

And your money goes to support a worthy cause!

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

Yup. That's them JD. As an added bonus, sometimes they even give me 11% back! And once a year, 15%! It doesn't hurt that they are just around the corner, < 1/2 mile away.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I used the tube & brazing method myself. Brazing is VERY strong.

Bear in mind that all the original Super 7's were built by brazing all the tubes together, not by welding...

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Scratch building, at continental-drift speed, a custom McSoreley-design framed, dual-Weber 45DCOE carburated, Zetec-engined, ridiculously fast money pit.

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