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PostPosted: June 10, 2009, 1:06 am 
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Auto Motive, My friends call me Motive
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Joined: October 23, 2007, 11:56 pm
Posts: 270
Location: Spanish Fork, UT
I have a couple MC shocks laying around so I thought we could start a database for anyone considering useing some bike parts. If anyone has some in use, some comments on how they are working would be appriciated as well

From L to R.
94 Yamaha R6: 554lbs/in spring. 1.5" travel+.5" with bumpstop. 11 5/8" eye to eye. Double adjustible. Nice needle bearings in both eyes. There are also other styles of R6 with the reasivoir perpendicular to the shock but they all have the same dimensions and spring rate.

97-98 Yamaha YZF600: 506lbs/in. 1.75"+bumpstop. 14 1/4" eye to eye. Double adjustible. rubber top eye, cleves lower. The 99 model came with a 530lbs/in spring.

91-93 Honda CBR600F2: 802lbs/in. Unknown travel as it has a cover over shaft. 11 1/2" eye to eye. Single adjustible. Needle bearing eyes. 94 model came with a 832lbs/in spring.


Attachments:
File comment: R6, YZF600, CBR600F2
shocks.jpg
shocks.jpg [ 195.01 KiB | Viewed 26744 times ]

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PostPosted: June 10, 2009, 7:12 pm 
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Joined: August 28, 2008, 11:11 pm
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good info
where did you find spring rates?
that's very cool


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PostPosted: June 10, 2009, 8:00 pm 
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Location: Tulsa, OK
Thanks..this is info I've been looking for.

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PostPosted: June 10, 2009, 8:17 pm 
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Spring rates can be found at http://racetech.com/page.aspx?id=53&menuid=61#

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Last edited by motive on June 11, 2009, 11:00 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: June 11, 2009, 6:31 pm 
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I'm waiting to hear back from the seller on two 95 R6 shocks on Ebay... He had 3 and one went for $29 so I offered $60 for the other two. He wanted $25 for shipping so I guess I'll get them for $85. In the pic they look brand new. I found another yesterday for the same price but he only had one. I'm anxious to get them so I can get the rear suspension nailed down.

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PostPosted: June 11, 2009, 7:58 pm 
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I tried the Racetec site and it says it's not up and running yet.

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PostPosted: June 11, 2009, 10:56 pm 
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sorry, spelled the webpage wrong. I edited it. click on the search tab at the top.

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PostPosted: June 20, 2009, 12:29 pm 
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I bought 4 of the R6 units on eBay one at a time, however the last 2 were from the same vendor so the freight wasn't too bad. Paid $29 for the first one, $25 for the second, $10.50 for the third , and $.01 for the fourth. His auction was for shock and swing arm, starting at $.01 and I was the only bidder. Told him to keep the swing arm which he did. Freight included the 4 cost right at $100.

I thought they had a little more travel than 1 1/2" though 8<{

The rears are a rocker/push rod set up and the fronts are at a pretty steep angle.

I would post pictures if I knew how.


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IMG_0324.JPG
IMG_0324.JPG [ 62.33 KiB | Viewed 26351 times ]

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PostPosted: June 20, 2009, 12:31 pm 
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Well, that worked! However the shot of the front was too big.

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PostPosted: June 20, 2009, 1:04 pm 
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What do those M/C guys do, buy a new bike and instantly trade the shocks out for thos $1000 ones? The 2 shocks I got were brand new, not a scratch or speck of dirt on them.

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PostPosted: July 8, 2009, 10:24 pm 
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Location: Columbia SC
Those are 03/04 R6 shocks. R6 started production in 99
I'm using the same ones on the front of my car.
switching to 400 lb springs. The 1.9-2.0:1 linkage ratio in the front
will give 200lb/in at the wheel. I'm using 175lb/in in the rear on a live axle.
My front is to stiff with the stock springs. Measured ~280lbs/ inch per wheel
just like calculated.

They do have a 550 Lb spring stock. 1.6 inches travel to the bump
2.25 inches total. They are much better shocks than your standard
QA-1's and the like. You would need to get some Penske or Ohlins
to really get better shocks. The do make a difference on a bike.

A locost with properly set-up Ohlins or Penske shocks would be the
TITS!!

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PostPosted: July 8, 2009, 11:54 pm 
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Funny, when I originally measured my front rate it came out to about
190lbs/inch. Then I realized I only have about 18PSI in the tires
they were compressing 5-6mm throwing off my calculations.
I did the measurements again from the bottom of the car to the
bottom of the outer ball joint and got a displacement of 11.5mm/ 250lbs
for the whole front so 250*25.4/11.5=552 lbs/inch total or 276 lbs/inch
for each side. I also measured sag with bare rims and got 11.5-12.0mm
similar result. Being a bit of a pedantic physicist I did another measurement
yesterday straightedge from the top of the frame to the upper ball joint.
11.5-12.0mm sag with 250lbs. I love it, same result three different ways!!!

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PostPosted: July 10, 2009, 11:39 am 
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In response to RacerDan: My brother parts out bikes on Ebay. He finds one or two year old new bikes and has the dealer recrate them and ship them to him. He can totally disassemble one in about a day. They are worth much more as parts than as a complete bike.


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PostPosted: August 10, 2009, 10:37 pm 
I specify the R6 shocks and bellcranks for use with my mid-engined La Bala kit car that can be built from plans. I've put over 15K miles on my own 1,500lb car using 2005 shocks with 2002 springs at the front and the 2005 springs at the rear. The suspension works very well and the ride is incredibly supple. I spent some (expensive) time with my suspension guru testing a number of them on a Penske shock dyno throughout their range of adjustment. I also tested all of the springs on a digital compression rig designed to test spring rates. The results were enlightening.

I posted my findings on my website: http://www.grabercars.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=1865

Benny toe, looking at your photograph above; the effective rate of your spring will rise quickly if the bellcrank pivot bearing is binding and I think that one will. The bellcrank may rotate freely when unloaded, but it's amazing how the weight of the car plus the bump load will cause that pivot to bind up. My original 1/2" bronze bushings were too small and wore out after about 10K miles. I think you should consider fitting a larger bearing like this one in the photo. It's only a couple of bucks per corner for the oilite bronze bushings and some DOM tubing, plus some effort to get the pieces to slip fit nicely.

Image


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PostPosted: August 10, 2009, 11:10 pm 
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Steve,

Thanks for the comment and advice. The bell crank is a R1 unit and the fulcrum has a needle bearing as does the shock end. The push rod however is just the aluminum. Will have to change that.
But were you aware that the bellcrank has the needle bearings? If so then you are saying they should be replaced with something meatier.

With that in mind what is your source for the oilites and what size are they?

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