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PostPosted: January 29, 2020, 3:36 pm 
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Joined: December 12, 2011, 2:45 pm
Posts: 24
I finished the frame a year or so ago. I have gotten stuck on the suspension. I don't have space to store of a donor Miata now so I will buy the front and rear uprights separately.

1. I am using the Saturn Sports Cars modifications to build the suspension. Is there a better set of plans to use than this?

2. Is there any series of Miata or model year that is better than others for the uprights?

3. Where does can I buy the bushings and bolts used to connect the suspension to the frame? I suspect one uses hard nylon and they must be more than just a nylon tube.

4. What coilover/shock assembly works best? I'm curious about the spring rates but also the size (length). If there is a particular brand that works well I would appreciate knowing what this is.

I'd really like to get moving again.

Thanks,
Mike


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PostPosted: January 29, 2020, 4:24 pm 
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Joined: August 31, 2015, 2:24 pm
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Location: Delaware
3ish: A&A https://www.aa-mfg.com is a good source for brackets, shock mounts and things like that.

4. Suspension tends to be budget driven but QA1, AFCO, and GAZ are pretty popular.


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PostPosted: January 30, 2020, 8:16 am 
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1. not sure what you are referring to. A link?
2. I’d go with 94 or newer uprights.
3. I’d use spitfire application nylon bushes with the thrust flange and sae grade 8 common hardware store bolts from the bins at tractorsupply. Hard to beat price-wise and they are appropriately sized for a locost. I’d make the ubj adjustable for camber on the uca by using a tierod as a ubj or making an adapter flange for the stock press-in ubj so it will bolt on to a slotted uca (like a fiero or chevette). I’d also fit 3/8 inch long spacers made from pipe on each side of the ucap bushings, between the frame flanges to provide some caster adjustment and with the uca centered in the flanges, locate the flanges so the ubj is one inch aft of the lbj.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Poly-Polyu ... 0180!US!-1
4. I’d use the entire miata irs subframe and rear coilovers. Then you just need two highly visible coilovers for the front. You could also mod the stock front upper seat to accept a bushing and use the stock coilovers but the seat must carry the load to the frame. The shaft is too small imho. The coilover should be parallel to the lbj travel to eliminate the need for spherical bearings.

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PostPosted: January 30, 2020, 9:49 am 
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Joined: October 19, 2012, 9:25 pm
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Location: Summerville, SC
1. I'm not familiar with the Saturn Sports Cars mod. Can you share a link? The easiest control arm system I've seen is Jack's at Kinetic Vehicles. I used it on my last build and roughly copied it for my current project.

2. agree 94 or newer. Bigger brakes than early cars. Get the brackets and calipers at the same time if you can.

3. I use rod ends. Nylon or poly bushes are available from multiple suppliers.

4. I'm using stock Miata on the rear. I have to make plates to bolt the shocks to the rear frame. Last build was QA1 on all four corners.
The one before that was mix and match with QA1's on the front and motorcycle shocks on the rear. Anything can work if you know what the car weighs (or have a reasonable guess).

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