LocostUSA.com

Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
It is currently November 16, 2018, 1:14 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 61 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next
Author Message
 Post subject:
PostPosted: March 24, 2006, 6:13 pm 
Offline
Locostering Information Liaison
User avatar

Joined: August 17, 2005, 1:30 am
Posts: 2403
Location: So CALIFORNIA
I loved seeing the progress you were makin on your build, every week/couple of days your build grew by leaps and bounds....and then your posts slowed. Were you bored? frustrated? Lacking funds? I wondered...

I can understand a month of being held up on a single item/items WOULD be FRUSTRATING.

Convience has its price....have paid it, and will pay it again as needed to finish my car in a timely manner.

_________________
I'll keep an eye out for you!

To err is human...
I am more human than most.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: March 25, 2006, 1:11 am 
Offline

Joined: August 15, 2005, 10:13 pm
Posts: 7048
Location: Charleston, WV
Well it's a little late now, but in hindsight (always 20/20 as they say) you could have bought one of these these for less than $15 and tapped your own threads into the tubing. I'm pretty sure that's what derf did.

Sorry I didn't understand what you needed but from your previous description I thought thought you were hung up on locating a source for the balljoint mounting hardware. Looking back I see you did specify exactly what you needed. My fault.

Either way you're past it now, so get back to work! :wink: (some of us who aren't ready to start yet need to live vicariously through your progress)

*edit* For future reference I checked and the hole size that you need to have to use the tap linked to above is 37/64" or in decimal .5781. It would be nice to have tubing that was already pretty close to that in internal diameter.

Metals depot offers a couple tubing sizes that should work:
DOM Seamless Structural Round Steel Tube 3/4 OD x .125 wall x .500 ID

Probably a little on the thin size one you cut the threads considering it is only 1/8 inch thick to begin with.

DOM Seamless Structural Round Steel Tube 1 OD x .250 wall x .500 ID

I realize 1/4" wall is probably overkill, but it's likely what I will use. Two feet of it is $18.02 which should be enough to make a pile of small threaded tubes. A four foot length is $36.04, six feet is $54.06. Pretty expensive but you shouldn't need much of it. FWIW I plan on using the 1/8" wall stuff for the long sections of the arms and welding on the 1/4" tubes I will thread myself. Tapping the threads isn't difficult, you just oil the tap up and screw it in a little at a time,(you can turn it with a ratchet) backing the tap up a turn or so when it gets tight and continueing on. If I were making the arms I would weld them together and then tap them after they were done. That way you needn't worry about distorting the threads from the heat, plus it gives you something to hold the small tubes in place while you tap them out.


Last edited by chetcpo on March 25, 2006, 12:56 pm, edited 3 times in total.

Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: March 25, 2006, 10:17 am 
No I bought it from the store, they had a bin with a few dozen in there, I just grabbed a hand ful. But it shoulddnt be too hard to make them from tubes if you have a tap and die set. I think that a tap the right size dhould be around $35,


Top
  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: March 27, 2006, 7:11 pm 
Thanks for the replies, guys.

FWIW, I had also bought a 5/8-18 tap, as I planned on making my own until I couldnt locate tubing with the right ID, and I dont have access to a lathe (one of the few tools I dont have yet). So, I have the tap sitting in my toolbox for future use if needed and if I find some tubing the right ID.

Yep, it is terribly frustrating getting hung up on one single part. In those cases, I have no problem paying out the nose to get it just to get on with putting my car together. Its part of that old Time - Money - Quality & pick two out of the three adage. I'm wanting to have the car driveable within 6 months, so any month-long hold-ups work against that pretty quick.

I'll see if I can get some new photos of my build up tonight, as I've actually done a fair amount of work since the last photos were posted.

If anyone does locate an online source for these threaded tubes, please post up the link. I'll need some more for my front A-arms. What I'm working on right now is just for my rear arms.


Top
  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: March 27, 2006, 7:36 pm 
3 years ago I said my car would take 6 months. Of course Ive always said it would be done within the next 6 months. This time hopefully it will be done 6 months from now.

Time - Money - Quality

So far Ive been picking the time and quality stuff as I'm short on money


Top
  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: March 27, 2006, 7:50 pm 
Nice.. I've been following your build as well. Very nice job so far!

It might take me a year to finish the car, but at 6 months from now, I'd like it to be driveable. Still might require body panels, paint, some wiring, lights, etc, but it would run and drive. Thats my plan at least.


Top
  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: March 27, 2006, 8:29 pm 
ive said that same line many times


Top
  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: April 15, 2006, 3:39 pm 
I think I've found something very very close to what you used:

Image

These are called "Standard bungs" and are available from this offroad truck fabrication site:

http://fullsizexjgear.com/Kartek/FK%20R ... iballs.htm

5/8" thread for 1"x.120 wall tubing - $8.99 each!

They even sell complete "heim kits", which come with everything for one end, including a high misalignment bushing:

Image


Top
  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: April 15, 2006, 10:25 pm 
Offline

Joined: August 15, 2005, 10:13 pm
Posts: 7048
Location: Charleston, WV
Jackpot! Good find. :D


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: April 15, 2006, 10:37 pm 
That is exactly what I used, only I think mine are longer


Top
  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: September 14, 2006, 9:47 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: July 14, 2006, 2:54 pm
Posts: 449
Location: Corning NY
datz510 wrote:
I think I've found something very very close to what you used:

Image

These are called "Standard bungs" and are available from this offroad truck fabrication site:

http://fullsizexjgear.com/Kartek/FK%20R ... iballs.htm

5/8" thread for 1"x.120 wall tubing - $8.99 each!




On these how do they work? Like where do you weld on them? From my understanding they "insert" into the end of your tubing.... But what happens from there?

Thanks

_________________
http://kenbuilt79.blogspot.com/


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: September 14, 2006, 9:50 am 
Offline

Joined: August 15, 2005, 10:13 pm
Posts: 7048
Location: Charleston, WV
KENLUDE97 wrote:
datz510 wrote:
I think I've found something very very close to what you used:

Image

These are called "Standard bungs" and are available from this offroad truck fabrication site:

http://fullsizexjgear.com/Kartek/FK%20R ... iballs.htm

5/8" thread for 1"x.120 wall tubing - $8.99 each!




On these how do they work? Like where do you weld on them? From my understanding they "insert" into the end of your tubing.... But what happens from there?

Thanks


Those aren't inserts. You could insert them into something, but they are made for more of what Derf used them for. You can weld onto them wherever you need. Look at the pics on page 1 of this thread. Inserts will have a "lip" on them, like the pic below:

Image

_________________
He is a wise man who does not grieve for the things which he has not, but rejoices for those which he has.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: September 14, 2006, 9:55 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: July 14, 2006, 2:54 pm
Posts: 449
Location: Corning NY
ok thanks CHETCPO

What they are selling is threaded rod, to be used where the rod ends thread into.

_________________
http://kenbuilt79.blogspot.com/


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: September 14, 2006, 10:22 am 
Offline

Joined: August 15, 2005, 10:13 pm
Posts: 7048
Location: Charleston, WV
KENLUDE97 wrote:
ok thanks CHETCPO

What they are selling is threaded rod, to be used where the rod ends thread into.


Exactly. I plan on just threading the inside of my control arm tubes with a tap set and that way I won't need to use either of the products above. (which is actually the way CMC did it)

Here is a pic of G's upper front arm illustrating how they can be used.
Image

_________________
He is a wise man who does not grieve for the things which he has not, but rejoices for those which he has.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject: Brakes?
PostPosted: September 15, 2006, 1:36 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: July 14, 2006, 2:54 pm
Posts: 449
Location: Corning NY
Now with using the S10 spindles does this hold you to using only s10 parts? Or are there other GM brake components? Such as a "racing" brake pad. What does everyone use?


I just looked on www.tirerack.com for a quick reference on Brakes and it seams like hawk makes a HP+ for the S10! :shock: I'm shocked! But would this be enough pad for straight track use? The car would be used as a Toy and occisional racer, and weekely Auto-xer.


Thanks
Ken

_________________
http://kenbuilt79.blogspot.com/


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 61 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
POWERED_BY