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PostPosted: September 30, 2010, 10:08 am 
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Does the flange that bolt to the upright only handle axial loads?


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PostPosted: September 30, 2010, 10:18 am 
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I would say any other loads that flange would see are probably negligible, the bearing will take most of the vertical and moment loading.


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PostPosted: July 22, 2011, 6:57 am 
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Location: central Arkansas
Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Every application where power is applied through a cv to the wheel should have a bolt-on hub.


There are usually exceptions, and by the luck of the draw, my donor is one. The Suzuki Cultus and derivatives (Chevy Sprint, Geo Metro, etc.) use inner and outer ball bearings sandwiching a strut knuckle, retained by the splined CV axle stub.

It's lighter and probably cheaper than the cartridge bearings, which is probably why Suzuki went that way.


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PostPosted: July 22, 2011, 6:58 am 
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[double tap]


Last edited by TRX on July 23, 2011, 9:43 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: July 22, 2011, 7:25 am 
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Cheaper yes - my Dodge dakota uses bolt on hubs, which it unfortunately eats. It's the only vehicle I've owned (not many, but all high milage) that has required front bearing replacement, THREE TIMES. Every time, I choke at the cost.

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PostPosted: July 22, 2011, 8:07 pm 
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Wheel bearings for my old Mustang were about ten bucks. The cartridge bearings aren't saving *me* any money...


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PostPosted: July 22, 2011, 8:13 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Every application where power is applied through a cv to the wheel should have a bolt-on hub.

Add Honda to the list that do not. They use a press-in double-row bearing and snap-ring.

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PostPosted: August 24, 2011, 7:13 am 
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Location: Germany
SWAG Germany manufactures Hubs Bearings and many other spares, I have some of the print version catalogues, maybe they are helpful to you:
http://www.swag.de/en/service/downloads ... logue.html

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PostPosted: February 20, 2012, 4:59 pm 
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RX-7 wheel lug pattern

1979-1985, 4 x 110 mm (all models)
1986-1991, 4 x 114.3 mm or 5 x 114.3 mm depending upon model

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PostPosted: November 4, 2012, 6:57 pm 
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I was changing shocks on my DD today and noticed it had bolt on hubs.

2002-2008 Dodge Ram 1500 2wd or 4wd
5 on 5.5" bolt pattern

Splines were a little dirty but appear to be 33 tooth, 1.352" minor diameter, 1.385" major diameter. Mine is a 2wd, but a quick bit of research seems to say they came with a Dana Spicer on the front of the 4wd versions.


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PostPosted: December 6, 2012, 5:30 pm 
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Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia
If you go back a half-dozen posts or so you'll see me complaining about the durability of bolt-on hubs on my Dakota. Well .... today it's getting its fourth one in 220,000 km. My last truck (the Isuzu donor for my build) went 198,000 km on its original old-fashioned bearings-on-a-spindle and they will continue their life on my Locost 7. Are all Bolt-on-Hubs this terrible, notwithstanding their attractiveness for builders?

End of bleat - no response required. 8)

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PostPosted: December 6, 2012, 6:20 pm 
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98 corvette - 110K miles, no problem with hubs
07 Chrysler 300 - 98K miles, no prob with hubs


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PostPosted: December 12, 2012, 6:53 pm 
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Joined: September 30, 2011, 4:08 pm
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Location: Portland, OR
Hopefully someone else will find this helpful.

I dug through Timken's bearing catalog to find all of their 4x100 wheel bearings - bolt on or otherwise.

I pulled application and boiled down major features that are relevant to us for the bolt-on hubs.

Code:
Part #       Application & Features
512000   Saturn SC/SL/SW rear bolt-on assembly     
512002   same part as above with ABS     
512018   Geo prizm/corolla rear bolt-on assembly     
512019   same as above with ABS     
512171   geo storm bolt-on rear assembly - EXPENSIVE   
512184   geo prizm/corolla rear bolt-on assembly ABS     
513226      02-09 mini front bolt-on assembly
HA590063   00-06 prius rear bolt-on assembly ABS -  expensive
HA590066   cobalt rear - aluminum hat - light bolt-on assembly 
HA590067   same as above no ABS     
HA590068   cobalt front - driven aluminum bolt-on assembly ABS very light relatively
HA590069   same as above no ABS     
HA590161   02-09 mini rear bolt-on assembly     
HA590170   Yaris rear bolt-on assembly       
HA590172   yaris rear non ABS bolt-on assembly     
HA590184   hyundai accent 07-10 rear bolt-in assembly     
HA592410   Toyota echo rear bolt-in assembly looks light for bolt-in 
HA594245   scion xa & echo ABS rear bolt-in assembly   
HA595017   00-05 MR2 front ABS bolt-in assembly - pretty spendy


Without actually measuring weights I believe the cobalt front & rear (one of the very few driven & undriven bolt-on combos) units will be the lowest weight units - the hubs are aluminum and the majority of the rest are steel.

The other unit of interest is the front driven unit from the mini - it supposedly (again, I've only read it, haven't tested in person) accepts the outer miata CV joint making it a great option for a bolt-on rear hub if you're employing the miata drivetrain.

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PostPosted: December 28, 2012, 8:50 am 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
I have a pair of the aluminum tbird irs uprights (I didn't think about looking at those when I posted before). Would you like me to weigh them?


are all t bird IRS knuckles made from aluminium?

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PostPosted: December 28, 2012, 11:34 am 
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DonChez wrote:
are all t bird IRS knuckles made from aluminium?


I have a theology degree, so the term "all" means (to me) "every last danged one in the entire frickin universe, no mater how absurd." You know, like we used the term "all" when we were 5th graders when we wanted to irritate adults?

But my notes (that I took when I was looking at T-bird/MarkVIII/LS rear ends) indicate that they are aluminum in the Mark VIII and T-bird. In the words of one locost comment, "I'm not sure the A-Arms are worth worrying about, they are aluminum, but still way heavier than a typical tubular arm, and not really suitable for a Locost anyway."

AT that point, I thought that having a machine shop bore out some tube stock to the right ID would be the way to go? UB Machine, for instance?

G'03

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