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PostPosted: December 28, 2012, 7:38 pm 
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All the 90s body style tbirds and cougars, and lincoln Mark VIII use the same alloy uprights and control arms.
The lower control arms are cast iron and extremely heavy. The upper are stamped steel and bent like a banana to clear the unibody "frame rail". The lincoln has the same control arms but with an aluminum center section.

I suggest using the stock arms then once it is on the road, fabricating a pair of uppers and lowers at your leisure within the oem dims.

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PostPosted: July 12, 2013, 1:03 am 
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I have tried several irs systems ,the only one that worked with over 350 HP was the T-bird . Nissan was too light and had no end of hub issues .
I made the control arms from 1" 4130 chrome moly and used GM bushings originally , they failed and had no adjustability . The new version uses Heim joints (Rod Ends) and solved the adjustment problems . this is the first configuration (unfinished ).
this way you can use stock half shafts and bearings , CV's and all .
This is a 1999 T-Bird with drum brakes , I will use the disc's on the current car . they are interchangeable .It's very easy to lay out and design the a-arms . This car uses Mustang front spindles and brakes , makes it easy to build quickly and works with the rack .
Hope this helps ..........


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rear control arms.jpg
rear control arms.jpg [ 1.1 MiB | Viewed 12813 times ]

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PostPosted: January 15, 2014, 10:15 am 
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so did anyone ever buy the cobalt hubs?
TIMKEN Part # HA590067
and
TIMKEN Part # HA590069
Lots of folks making this one. Your source?
Comments, Opinions?
Rockauto lists Timken, SKF, MOOG, Raybestos, Pro, Value Pro as manufacturers.
I am modeling up the critical dimensions of these in Solidworks now and will probably pull the purchase trigger soon unless I hear something terrible.
Paul

PS...does anyone know the drive spline dimensions?, spent too much time looking for it on the web already. I would like to have it right in my model. I believe its 33 teeth, diameter is a question.

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PostPosted: January 16, 2014, 3:32 am 
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JPS Europa wrote:
so did anyone ever buy the cobalt hubs?
TIMKEN Part # HA590067
and
TIMKEN Part # HA590069
Lots of folks making this one. Your source?
Comments, Opinions?
Rockauto lists Timken, SKF, MOOG, Raybestos, Pro, Value Pro as manufacturers.
I am modeling up the critical dimensions of these in Solidworks now and will probably pull the purchase trigger soon unless I hear something terrible.
Paul

PS...does anyone know the drive spline dimensions?, spent too much time looking for it on the web already. I would like to have it right in my model. I believe its 33 teeth, diameter is a question.


I bought them, looked at them, weighed them and then returned them. They were heavy for what I was looking to use them for. They looked very workable. I think, uh, somewhere I have the dimensions, let me see if I ended up putting together a solidworks file for them

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PostPosted: January 21, 2014, 5:02 pm 
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Yes, they are a bit heavy, but I think I will use them anyway. The HA590069 weighs 5.7 pounds and the HA590067 weighs 7.5 pounds. I expected the hub part to be aluminum, but they are iron too. These are actual Timken parts, not something of unknown parentage.
I have made good functional models out of them in Solidworks 2012. If anyone wants them, I can export them in whatever. Just PM me.
Paul Harhen

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PostPosted: January 21, 2014, 6:36 pm 
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JPS Europa wrote:
Yes, they are a bit heavy, but I think I will use them anyway. The HA590069 weighs 5.7 pounds and the HA590067 weighs 7.5 pounds. I expected the hub part to be aluminum, but they are iron too. These are actual Timken parts, not something of unknown parentage.
I have made good functional models out of them in Solidworks 2012. If anyone wants them, I can export them in whatever. Just PM me.
Paul Harhen


hah! I also expected aluminum from every picture i've seen and was also sad to see iron hubs instead of just the iron bearing mount area

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PostPosted: November 23, 2014, 5:21 am 
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BMW e39 is what i will use, 5x120 front and rear bolton hubs, also maybe e60 is the same.


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PostPosted: January 22, 2015, 1:06 pm 
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Hey guys. I am considering fabricated uprights with bolt in hubs. But I am running into some trouble with the configuration.

Here is what I consider the ultimate find. (for a bike engine sprocket diff setup).

Rear wheel drive
Bolt in hubs front and rear
An lsd that is cylindrical in shape and not a tapered unit which I think would be hard to seal in a bec application.
Decent bolt pattern, say 4x100 or 5x114.3 for wheels.

I'd say this setup is perfect, because you will know the cvs/halfshafts match the hubs and diff. If anyone knows of a setup like this, please let me know!

I am not very experienced with cv compatibility with diffs and hubs. I assume there are more things that need to match other than a spline number for it to work. Snap ring locations, spline depth, etc. I was looking at mini cooper hubs since someone mentioned they are compatible with miata halfshats and thus miata lsd, but I cannot confirm fitment.

Any advice or ideas?

Thanks guys great info!


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PostPosted: January 23, 2015, 7:15 pm 
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So after a ton of digging, the driveshaft shop was nice enough to give me an answer. The miata halfshafts do not fit the 2002-2006 mini cooper front hubs. They said that the mini is actually the same as a 89-2001 civic spline.

The civic also runs unequal length halfshafts, so it seems the mini hubs aren't a viable solution.

Only other car I have found that is rear wheel drive with all 4 bolt on hubs is bmw e39. I guess I will keep digging.


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PostPosted: January 24, 2015, 12:43 am 
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The dune buggy folks have some interesting parts and their driveshafts can be bought in 1" increments. I think you can get weld in sleeves for the bearings and various stub axles to fit. In addition I think something like the F150 front stub axles take Porsche or VW CV joints.

We haven't had anyone pursue here long enough to come up with a recipe. I think they are referred to as Micro Stub axle parts.

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PostPosted: July 3, 2015, 5:46 pm 
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Did anyone manage to find 5x4.5 (5x114.3) bolt on hubs that weigh less than 6lbs?

These are exactly what I want but they are 5x5"
http://pitstopusa.com/i-7806108-allstar ... -only.html

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Last edited by wrightcomputing on July 3, 2015, 7:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: July 3, 2015, 6:13 pm 
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Group buy anyone $2-4 each if we buy 100 of them.
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/a ... 5.1.EU2phd

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PostPosted: July 3, 2015, 8:32 pm 
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wrightcomputing wrote:
These are exactly what I want


No they aren't. Those are for use with a fixed spindle, there's nothing "bolt on" about them.


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PostPosted: July 3, 2015, 10:55 pm 
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And they are not the right size either so it does not matter. I am asking if someone knows something that will do the job that I need it to. Not a reason why something that I know wont work, wont work.

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PostPosted: July 4, 2015, 12:00 am 
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Quote:
Not a reason why something that I know wont work, wont work.


You're misunderstanding Greg. If you bolt that on your upright it will not actually do the turning part that is so crucial for a front wheel. He trying to tell you that that part is used on an upright with a fixed spindle or axle pin on it. This part has the outer races for roller bearing in it but not the entire bearing.

You should be looking at buying a unit made for the purpose you desire. If you are going to build one it's going to take a lot of work, a lot of a lot of work and you need to being thanking folks like Greg if they bother to make any comment at all...

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