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Thanks for the link to picture of your light shell, I will consider a lift up back. What do you use to keep it up ? Any idea of completed weight. That would give me over six feet under the open back door. Caught me at the right time which is part of the reason I posted now to get other owners idea's how to finish.

Plan on covering front, back door, roof top center seam, with 6mm ply for reinforcement. Also think it wise for 2 ft. tall inside side cover for first 8 ft. so I don't push out while getting past car to tie up front. I was considering just building front chocks to block wheels and not have to go to front OR use a cable from front of car to front of trailer then continuing to back of trailer to tie off.

I'm $ 1200 for trailer, $ 240 for steel, $ 320 for aluminum, $ 20 for paint, sealed rivets x 400 I will check price, bought pneumatic rivet gun, need hinges, latches, 6 sheets 6mm ply, likely recover floor to seal with 3/8 ply plus roof paper under.

The front is just supported with temp braces, picking up curved pieces today.

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CMC frame the GRM original build, now turbo miata track/street 311hp, complete but always being updated. thanks to LocostUSA Forum

Back door has a heavy duty SS piano hinge, 1/4 turn latches, and gas struts all from McMaster-Carr. The door and trailer upper frame is 3/4" 16ga tubing and skinned over with .040 alum. The door weighs about 75lbs but at that angle I had to use about 300lbs of gas struts. All I have to do is unlatch the door and give it a slight tug and it opens all by it self. Pretty slick!!! I have two HF wheel chalks up front to stop my front tires and then I tie her down front and back. Trailer has gone from KC to Wisconsin twice, Minnesota, Oklahoma, Colorado, and all over Missouri without any problems. Russ

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You meet the nicest people in a Locost Se7en.