LocostUSA.com

Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
It is currently August 20, 2018, 10:39 pm

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 36 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2, 3  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: March 7, 2015, 12:11 am 
Offline

Joined: July 6, 2008, 11:15 am
Posts: 1050
Location: Cave Creek, AZ
I've got an idea on how to solve the problem of scraping the bottom of my Superformance S-1 on the ramp transitions of my car hauler/Motel 6 trailer. My wifes likes to ride in the car in cool climates, but not the ride through our Southwestern deserts to get to them. I figured out two sets of ramps would be a lot of work, heavy and hard to store in transit and while parked.

My trailer is a 40' fifth wheel with a drop down ramp in the back. The floor of the trailer has a beaver tail slope at the very back to lower the floor a little. Those two transitions, one 8 degrees and the other 12 degress, in effect form humps in the path of loading the 7, which only has 3" of ground clearance.

My idea is to use a modified tongue jack from a trailer, attached to each front wheel with 2 nylon ratchet straps, with a thick piece of foam between the powder coated wheel and the body of the tongue jack, to keep it from scratching the wheel. Follow me so far? A tongue jack is securely fastened to each front wheel.

The top part of the jack has two downward facing, angled legs with curved plates welded to them that "cradle" the tire. Like two hands getting ready to lift the tire. One in front of the contact patch, one behind.

The bottom "foot' of the jack has a large flate triangular plate attached to the outside side of the jack with u-bolts. At the front and rear points of this triangle, are bolted two pneumatic hand cart tires.

And Voila', I can slide the two "hands" under the tire, strap the cushioned jack to the wheel's spokes, crank down the two hand cart tires until it lifts the car's front tires 6" in the air, then drive the car under its own power into the trailer where I would then lower the car back down for strapping purposes. With these strapped tightly to each front wheel I should have a slight modicum of turning ability to align the car with the trailer's tie-down points.

Well? Am I crazy or missing something?

Tom

_________________
Sometimes, I'm as confused as a baby in a topless bar.

My short term memory is absolutely horrible and so is my short term memory.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sG16m2e4O6I


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: March 7, 2015, 1:38 am 
Offline

Joined: April 17, 2009, 1:28 am
Posts: 146
Location: San Tan Valley, Arizona
Tom.
That is an interesting approach to fixing a high center issue, but I'm not sure I would be comfortable trying to drive up and over that double incline with that rig.

A question; What happens to that hump if the Ramp is raised to level?

Walt


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: March 7, 2015, 9:34 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: July 17, 2008, 9:11 am
Posts: 4654
Location: West Chicago,IL
I see where you are going. I working on the same issue checking theoretical clearances while building my trailer. The only think I see is that your solution requires a lot of auxiliary equipment to be hauled along with you. And that your solution may require redesign if you ever swap out your tow vehicle with a different wheelbase or location of the 5th wheel.

How strong is the lift motor on the drop down? Can you drive up just to the point where the front wheels of the car are off the door and onto the beavertail, and then lift the rear of the car 1/2 the car weight) with the lift motor?

Will you still be able to get over the next hump with only 3" of ground clearance? I think I calculated my safe angle at 9 degrees with 4-1/2" of clearance. Any steeper and I will hit. Although I haven't tested this theory yet.

Will the nose of your car not interfere with entering the 1st ramp?

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my active Cushman Truckster resurrection log: over HERE
or my archival Locost build log: over HERE


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: March 7, 2015, 10:44 am 
Offline

Joined: July 6, 2008, 11:15 am
Posts: 1050
Location: Cave Creek, AZ
waltj wrote:
Tom.
That is an interesting approach to fixing a high center issue, but I'm not sure I would be comfortable trying to drive up and over that double incline with that rig.

A question; What happens to that hump if the Ramp is raised to level?

Walt



I thought about making the ramp a powered ramp and extending it so that the nose wouldn't hit, but it seemed like a lot of work.

Tom

_________________
Sometimes, I'm as confused as a baby in a topless bar.

My short term memory is absolutely horrible and so is my short term memory.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sG16m2e4O6I


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: March 7, 2015, 10:51 am 
Offline

Joined: July 6, 2008, 11:15 am
Posts: 1050
Location: Cave Creek, AZ
rx7locost wrote:
I see where you are going. I working on the same issue checking theoretical clearances while building my trailer. The only think I see is that your solution requires a lot of auxiliary equipment to be hauled along with you. And that your solution may require redesign if you ever swap out your tow vehicle with a different wheelbase or location of the 5th wheel.

How strong is the lift motor on the drop down? Can you drive up just to the point where the front wheels of the car are off the door and onto the beavertail, and then lift the rear of the car 1/2 the car weight) with the lift motor?

Will you still be able to get over the next hump with only 3" of ground clearance? I think I calculated my safe angle at 9 degrees with 4-1/2" of clearance. Any steeper and I will hit. Although I haven't tested this theory yet.

Will the nose of your car not interfere with entering the 1st ramp?



My 5th wheel is so large that even with the car in the back, it still has enough room to sleep 6 comfortably.

I am the lift motor on the rear ramp and getting weaker every year.

Yes the nose will interfere when driving onto the ramp, unless I raise it up about 6".

Tom

_________________
Sometimes, I'm as confused as a baby in a topless bar.

My short term memory is absolutely horrible and so is my short term memory.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sG16m2e4O6I


Last edited by Off Road SHO on March 8, 2015, 6:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: March 7, 2015, 10:58 am 
Offline

Joined: May 9, 2009, 1:44 pm
Posts: 285
Location: northampton ma
Dear Abby would say trade the wife for one that likes riding in warmer weather


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: March 7, 2015, 11:56 am 
Offline

Joined: July 6, 2008, 11:15 am
Posts: 1050
Location: Cave Creek, AZ
rad wrote:
Dear Abby would say trade the wife for one that likes riding in warmer weather



Hahaha. But she spoils me something terrible and has for 37 years. She's worth the trouble.

Tom

_________________
Sometimes, I'm as confused as a baby in a topless bar.

My short term memory is absolutely horrible and so is my short term memory.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sG16m2e4O6I


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: March 7, 2015, 7:56 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: April 12, 2010, 5:40 pm
Posts: 2081
Location: san francisco bay area
I used similiar ones to these when I worked for finance companies, add some strap hooks where the wheels bolt on and it should work well for you.
Should be pretty easy to make if so inclined; http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200612550_200612550

_________________
"There are times when a broken tool is better than a sound one, or a twisted personality more useful than a whole one.
For instance, a whole beer bottle isn't half the weapon that half a beer bottle is ..." Randall Garrett


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: March 7, 2015, 10:56 pm 
Offline

Joined: July 6, 2008, 11:15 am
Posts: 1050
Location: Cave Creek, AZ
oldejack wrote:
I used similiar ones to these when I worked for finance companies, add some strap hooks where the wheels bolt on and it should work well for you.
Should be pretty easy to make if so inclined; http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200612550_200612550



Yeah I looked at those also but the wheels are way too small and the height gained is only a couple of inches and they too will bottom out on my transitions. I even thought of adapting larger inflatable tire to that dolly, but I would still have to jack up the car 6" to set it on top of the dolly. I'm trying to avoid too many job operations.

Tom

_________________
Sometimes, I'm as confused as a baby in a topless bar.

My short term memory is absolutely horrible and so is my short term memory.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sG16m2e4O6I


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: March 7, 2015, 11:09 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: July 17, 2008, 9:11 am
Posts: 4654
Location: West Chicago,IL
So here is another question: Most of the 5th wheel hitches I have seen are located directly over the rear axle of the tow vehicle, if this is what yours is, then raising the front wheels of the tow vehicle will not have much, if any affect on raising( or lowering) the front of the trailer.

Or is there something else I am missing?

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my active Cushman Truckster resurrection log: over HERE
or my archival Locost build log: over HERE


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: March 7, 2015, 11:22 pm 
Offline

Joined: July 6, 2008, 11:15 am
Posts: 1050
Location: Cave Creek, AZ
rx7locost wrote:
So here is another question: Most of the 5th wheel hitches I have seen are located directly over the rear axle of the tow vehicle, if this is what yours is, then raising the front wheels of the tow vehicle will not have much, if any affect on raising( or lowering) the front of the trailer.

Or is there something else I am missing?



You are correct. The trailer has triple axles, that have been "flipped" to the bottom side of the spring to give the trailer even more ground clearance, but unfortunately exacerbating my dilemma. Another issue I have to deal with is width. After the car is inside, I only have 10" of clearance on either side of the front tires.

Here is the tongue jack I thinking of: http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive ... 92626.html

A couple of heavy "bent spatulas" welded to the top section and a cou[ple of pneumatic tires in line on a plate fastened to the lower part.



Tom

_________________
Sometimes, I'm as confused as a baby in a topless bar.

My short term memory is absolutely horrible and so is my short term memory.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sG16m2e4O6I


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: March 8, 2015, 1:31 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: January 13, 2008, 9:07 pm
Posts: 928
Location: Glendale AZ
Tom , how about something like this ? I know poor drawing . LOL


Attachments:
gate jack.jpg
gate jack.jpg [ 514.94 KiB | Viewed 2398 times ]

_________________
American 7 5.0 T5
Lotus 15 ish?
908-3 Sti.
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: March 8, 2015, 11:17 am 
Offline
Always Moore!
User avatar

Joined: November 9, 2007, 3:40 pm
Posts: 3935
Location: Fort Worth, TX
What about something like this but with wooden ramps?

Depending on how much clearance is required a few stacked boards may be enough. I had to make something similar to get my Locost onto a U-Haul trailer; I made a pyramid out of 2x6s so the front axle would stay high and prevent the car from bottoming out. It was long enough so the front would drive off of it just as the rear wheels got onto the trailer. I still have the pyramid ramps and sometimes I'll drive the truck's rear axle onto them if I need to get the rear of the trailer lower for loading/unloading the Sprite (tailpipe hits).


Attachments:
IMAG0797.jpg
IMAG0797.jpg [ 115.42 KiB | Viewed 2385 times ]

_________________
-Andrew
Build Log
Youtube
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: March 8, 2015, 12:46 pm 
Offline

Joined: October 19, 2009, 9:36 pm
Posts: 2074
Location: meadview arizona
Tom, put the car in the trailer until it starts to bottom out, then lift it up at the back and move it further in to the trailer until it clears the floor, mark both places.

this is the area that is too low, add a section of wood in this area high enough to allow the car to clear.

_________________
this story shall the good man teach his son,
and chrispin chrispian shall ne'er go by,
from this day to the end of the world.
but we in it shall be remembered.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: March 8, 2015, 3:18 pm 
Offline
Toyotaphobe
User avatar

Joined: April 5, 2008, 2:25 am
Posts: 4692
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
You take the trailer and I'll take the car!!

And then there's this.

Attachment:
Stalker trailer.jpg
Stalker trailer.jpg [ 166.82 KiB | Viewed 2364 times ]


And here's a thread from down under.
http://www.ozclubbies.com.au/index.php?/topic/11233-a-sort-of-snotty-trailer/


Attachments:
1.jpg
1.jpg [ 337.02 KiB | Viewed 2364 times ]

_________________
mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 36 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2, 3  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
POWERED_BY